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Re: "Dog Day" Afternoon....
Depends on the volume, but I can sell 4/4 and 5/4 material for around 3.75/ bf and 8/4 4.50. This would be in 200 bf quantities. This is kiln dried material FAS. #1 common woudl be a lot less. This is a rough estimate as the price fluctuates depending upon quantity ordered and grade.
Ash is 2.25/bf 4/4,5/4 material 2.95/bf fas 8/4 material
Depends on the volume, but I can sell 4/4 and 5/4 material for around 3.75/ bf and 8/4 4.50. This would be in 200 bf quantities. This is kiln dried material FAS. #1 common woudl be a lot less. This is a rough estimate as the price fluctuates depending upon quantity ordered and grade.
Ash is 2.25/bf 4/4,5/4 material 2.95/bf fas 8/4 material
Re: "Dog Day" Afternoon....
Looks awesome!
How are you going to flatten the top?
Aren't you going to have to do some cutting of your frame to get your front vise in place?
Looks awesome!
How are you going to flatten the top?
Aren't you going to have to do some cutting of your frame to get your front vise in place?
Re: "Dog Day" Afternoon....
Thanks. I plan to do most of the flattening in my benchtop planer. I will glueup the laminations in two sections that will be just under 12" each. Then I (hopefully) will be able to hoist them up for a pass or two in the planer. I have done the first glueup already, and when that's out of the clamps I'll be able to tell how much Advil® I'm gonna need!!!
:lol: Once I get the two sections glued together, and the aprons on, I'll do the final flattening with bench planes.
About the vise fitting -- that is a great question! I have discovered that this is actually a bit of a sticking point with the FWW article. The vise hardware actually will BARELY fit based on the dimensions in the article, but you would have to make some sort of modification somewhere to get it done. In order to get it to work, you have to do basically one of the following:
No big deal, really, but it's sort of annoying that the dimensions given in the article won't work as published. The only reason I realized that this would be an issue is because I spent time playing around with the design in CAD. Anyone who does this, or draws up their own plans or full-size drawings, would catch the problem too. The problem is, if you DIDN'T do full-size drawings or CAD, and you trusted the dimensions in the article, you would be stuck with one of the first 4 solutions above (or using different hardware).
Thanks. I plan to do most of the flattening in my benchtop planer. I will glueup the laminations in two sections that will be just under 12" each. Then I (hopefully) will be able to hoist them up for a pass or two in the planer. I have done the first glueup already, and when that's out of the clamps I'll be able to tell how much Advil® I'm gonna need!!!
:lol: Once I get the two sections glued together, and the aprons on, I'll do the final flattening with bench planes.About the vise fitting -- that is a great question! I have discovered that this is actually a bit of a sticking point with the FWW article. The vise hardware actually will BARELY fit based on the dimensions in the article, but you would have to make some sort of modification somewhere to get it done. In order to get it to work, you have to do basically one of the following:
- Leave all the dimensions as-is. This would leave just enough room for all the hardware to fit, but you would NOT be able to make the front vise 18" wide as stated in the article -- you would have to make it about 14" wide. No big deal, and most would be happy with this. Annoyed, but happy.
- Cut off the screws of the twin screw vise about a couple inches. This would work, but I ain't doing that!
- Drill holes in the right trestle top to clear the twin screws. Again, this would work.... but with a standard twin screw spacing, you would end up drilling very near or even right through the mortises! 8-O Not gonna happen.
- Carve out the left trestle top. Alternatively, you could carve or rout out a big rabbet in the left side of the trestle top to clear the front vise hardware (or combine some limited carving with one of the above solutions).
- Make the trestle base shorter. This is a good option, but it requires that you know ahead of time that the dimensions in the article won't work. I didn't. :-?
- Make the top longer. When I rough cut out my pieces for the top lamination, I cut each piece about 3" longer "just in case". Turns out it's a good thing I did.... this extra length fixes the issue for me.
Re: Benchtop progress
Insom. I am sure you've stated it before, but how thick is your top stock? Your success with the lunch box planer handling it is fueling the fire for my thoughts of using 12/4 stock for the top slab. BTW that is gonna make a sweet bench top...when ever you get it done :lol:
Dave
Insom. I am sure you've stated it before, but how thick is your top stock? Your success with the lunch box planer handling it is fueling the fire for my thoughts of using 12/4 stock for the top slab. BTW that is gonna make a sweet bench top...when ever you get it done :lol:
Dave
Re: Benchtop progress
I was going to make the top 2½" thick, but I have changed my mind. The Veritas bench dogs work best when the top is about 3" thick (anything less than about 2¾" and the spring won't hold it properly when you try to hold it just above the level of the bench top). So... mine will probably end up being about 2-7/8" or so thick.
The benchtop planer really worked just fine. Before getting started, I waxed the bed again to help things slide through easily. The infeed support surface on my flip-top cabinet really came it handy to help hold this slab. A roller stand is all that was needed for support on the outfeed side.
I was going to make the top 2½" thick, but I have changed my mind. The Veritas bench dogs work best when the top is about 3" thick (anything less than about 2¾" and the spring won't hold it properly when you try to hold it just above the level of the bench top). So... mine will probably end up being about 2-7/8" or so thick.
The benchtop planer really worked just fine. Before getting started, I waxed the bed again to help things slide through easily. The infeed support surface on my flip-top cabinet really came it handy to help hold this slab. A roller stand is all that was needed for support on the outfeed side.
Re: Benchtop progress
That is a lot of clamps and a lot of wood. I bet it is fun picking up the slabs.
On your dog slots, did you cut the cut out for the head down at an angle so sawdust won't sit on the ledge? It looks like it is square in the pics?
That is a lot of clamps and a lot of wood. I bet it is fun picking up the slabs.
On your dog slots, did you cut the cut out for the head down at an angle so sawdust won't sit on the ledge? It looks like it is square in the pics?
Re: Benchtop progress
hmmmm... excellent point!!! That little ledge in the dog hole is actually the radius of a ¼" router bit, so it's kind of round. But it does have a flat ledge, and I hadn't thought of dust buildup causing problems - thanks for pointing that out! It will be easy to fix before I glue the slabs together.
hmmmm... excellent point!!! That little ledge in the dog hole is actually the radius of a ¼" router bit, so it's kind of round. But it does have a flat ledge, and I hadn't thought of dust buildup causing problems - thanks for pointing that out! It will be easy to fix before I glue the slabs together.
Re: Benchtop progress
That bench is looking great! That is definately one of my future projects- after I get my new extension and outfeed tables done for my table saw, get my wall bench with mitersaw station done, build bench cabinets, etc. . . . . .
Question- I was looking at an online video of the construction of a WW bench and wondered if you offset the dowell holes when attaching the legs to the foot. (not sure of the technical term). The guy in the video drilled the holes in the tenons 1/16" closer to the shoulder than the holes in the mortise. He tapered the tips of the dowells and when he set them they pulled/put force on the legs pulling them tight to the foot.
That bench is looking great! That is definately one of my future projects- after I get my new extension and outfeed tables done for my table saw, get my wall bench with mitersaw station done, build bench cabinets, etc. . . . . .
Question- I was looking at an online video of the construction of a WW bench and wondered if you offset the dowell holes when attaching the legs to the foot. (not sure of the technical term). The guy in the video drilled the holes in the tenons 1/16" closer to the shoulder than the holes in the mortise. He tapered the tips of the dowells and when he set them they pulled/put force on the legs pulling them tight to the foot.
Re: Benchtop progress
Hmmm. Should have waited to comment until you finished glue up.:lol:
Seriously, got it out of a Woodsmith magazine years ago when I was building a bench. It helps keep the space for the bench dogs going down clear and not packing up with saw dust so having the whole ledge at an angle fixes that.
Let me know when it will be ready for me to come pick up and take home!
Hmmm. Should have waited to comment until you finished glue up.:lol:
Seriously, got it out of a Woodsmith magazine years ago when I was building a bench. It helps keep the space for the bench dogs going down clear and not packing up with saw dust so having the whole ledge at an angle fixes that.
Let me know when it will be ready for me to come pick up and take home!
Re: Benchtop progress
Alan - that technique is called draw-boring. I did use that on my M&T joints, and I posted a little how-to here. Doing the M&T joints this way really pulls things together tight while the glue sets up. You could probably pull the joints together this way without any clamps at all, but I did use a couple of clamps anyway. As long as the shoulders of the tenons are nice and square, this pulls the assembly together perfectly square, and as soon as you drive the dowels in, you can pull the clamps off... it ain't going anywhere!!! :icon_thum
Alan - that technique is called draw-boring. I did use that on my M&T joints, and I posted a little how-to here. Doing the M&T joints this way really pulls things together tight while the glue sets up. You could probably pull the joints together this way without any clamps at all, but I did use a couple of clamps anyway. As long as the shoulders of the tenons are nice and square, this pulls the assembly together perfectly square, and as soon as you drive the dowels in, you can pull the clamps off... it ain't going anywhere!!! :icon_thum
Re: Benchtop progress
Oops, sorry I missed your excellent tutorial many pages back- don't know how I missed it.
insomniac said:
Oops, sorry I missed your excellent tutorial many pages back- don't know how I missed it.
Re: Benchtop progress
Get it right Insom, It ain't goin nowhere is more appropriate.:lol:
Get it right Insom, It ain't goin nowhere is more appropriate.:lol:
M
McRabbet
Re: Benchtop progress
In case anyone wasn't awake, this thread just reached 102 posts with my entry. I guess everyone likes what you're up to Monty, or it is a real long saga! Good to see the great progress you've been making lately. It will be a sweet bench when you're done, but where are the 'guins going?
Rob
In case anyone wasn't awake, this thread just reached 102 posts with my entry. I guess everyone likes what you're up to Monty, or it is a real long saga! Good to see the great progress you've been making lately. It will be a sweet bench when you're done, but where are the 'guins going?
Rob
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