Next Raleigh Lumber Run

Which species / thickness would your consider purchasing

  • 5/4 Flat Sawn Black Walnut $4.40

    Votes: 16 39.0%
  • 9/4 Flat Sawn Black Walnut $6.10 (could be re-sawn on a band saw into book matched 4/4 after drying)

    Votes: 10 24.4%
  • 4/4 Quarter Sawn Red Oak $2.90

    Votes: 10 24.4%
  • 8/4 Quarter Sawn Red Oak $4.80

    Votes: 4 9.8%
  • 4/4 Quarter Sawn White Oak $2.90

    Votes: 18 43.9%
  • 8/4 Quarter Sawn White Oak $4.80

    Votes: 9 22.0%
  • 5/4 Quarter Sawn Sycamore $2.90

    Votes: 19 46.3%
  • 9/4 Quarter Sawn Sycamore $4.80 (could be re-sawn on a band saw into book matched 4/4 after drying)

    Votes: 9 22.0%

  • Total voters
    41
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scsmith42

New User
Scott Smith
Joe and Robert, re the increased cost for 8/4 versus 4/4, Fred is correct. It takes 2.5 - 3X longer to dry 8/4 versus 4/4. One month in the kiln is average for 4/4 oak, 75 - 90 days in the kiln for 8/4 oak.

Scott
 

scsmith42

New User
Scott Smith
For those interested in 4/4 oak, I have a small amount of FS and QS WO (some 4/4, some thinner), and a larger quantity of QS and FS RO.

Most of the wood was milled at 4/4, so it's just a tad bit thinner from the drying related shrinkage.

There are a few pieces with feather patterns (crotch wood), and some pieces with spalted sapwood on the edge. I'm selling the spalt and crotch wood boards for the same prices as the QS. In some instances, other than the spalted portion the rest of the board may be FS.

The widths and lengths vary, the bulk of the widths are around 6", and they range upward from there. I have a few boards in the 16" - 18" range, but they would probably grade out as #2 common. Probably less than 5% of the boards are less than 5".

Please send me a PM letting me know what quantities and widths that you're interested in, and I can see about setting them aside on a first come basis. Thanks much; I'll be applying the proceeds towards some of the material for the new shop.

Scott
 

CarvedTones

Board of Directors, Vice President
Andy
I answered as interested in 9/4 Sycamore, but you should probably count it as a quarter of a vote or something. One 10" wide board would last me a long time. You might put me down for offcuts of 30" or more (but 50" isn't worth much more to me than 30") of thick walnut or sycamore, and yes, I would be willing to actually pay for them. :) Not too many or I would run out of places to store them.
 

NCTurner

Gary
Corporate Member
8/4 Quarter Sawn Red Oak $4.80-5bf
9/4 Quarter Sawn Sycamore $4.80 -10bf

I am aslo interested to see if you have any spalted pecan, sycamore, or beech.
 
J

jeff...

And the winners are 5/64 poplar and 26/4 pine :gar-La;

116.JPG


Just kidding...

It's 4/4 QSWO and 5/4 QSS - Scott says these should dry good together, we'll get crack a lacking on these soon and of course I'll snap some pics :gar-Bi

Thanks to the 34 who voted whoever you are - I did a blind poll so our decision was not influenced by those with high post counts (DaveO)

Thanks again
 

JohnW

New User
John
Hmmmmmmmmm..No Walnut? FINE. Be that way. I think the voting booth was rigged. I saw Chad hanging around. Who's the no-count that can't count?


BTW - How much for the 26/4 pine? Someone could make a tree out of that.:rotflm:
 
J

jeff...

Hmmmmmmmmm..No Walnut? FINE. Be that way. I think the voting booth was rigged. I saw Chad hanging around. Who's the no-count that can't count?


BTW - How much for the 26/4 pine? Someone could make a tree out of that.:rotflm:


When we do a walnut run, we'll do it right. Have to be ultra selective when it comes to walnut logs and they must be cut ASAP or the heart wood will start to "bleed" into the sapwood. when it does it distorts the nice shades of red and purple in the heartwood. Not only that I need to make sure I'm not doing anything important for a few weeks after sawing it. The stuff tears me up, I'm unable to focus my attention on things. It's the only wood I've sawed so far that has a big time effect on me. Even snorting Eastern Red Cedar is a cake walk compared to black walnut.

26/4 pine is only 5 1/2" thick... no biggie :gar-Bi
 

DaveO

New User
DaveO
26/4 pine is only 5 1/2" thick... no biggie :gar-Bi


6½" and the way you saw, it will probabely be 7" thick. You cut too thick or Scott dries to well :dontknow: Either way I end up with nice flat boards that take minimal jointing/planing to be 4 sq. But take a lot to get down to ¾" thick :BangHead:


Keep on doing what you do..it's very appreciated

Dave:)
 

cpowell

New User
Chuck
When we do a walnut run, we'll do it right. Have to be ultra selective when it comes to walnut logs and they must be cut ASAP or the heart wood will start to "bleed" into the sapwood. when it does it distorts the nice shades of red and purple in the heartwood. Not only that I need to make sure I'm not doing anything important for a few weeks after sawing it. The stuff tears me up, I'm unable to focus my attention on things. It's the only wood I've sawed so far that has a big time effect on me. Even snorting Eastern Red Cedar is a cake walk compared to black walnut.

26/4 pine is only 5 1/2" thick... no biggie :gar-Bi

Thanks for the "rest of the story". As much as I'd love to get some of your walnut I'll just pass if it causes you problems.

I looked at some of the walnut you delivered at the spring picnic...two years ago maybe?? :icon_scra Prettiest stuff I'd seen in ages, color was incredible. Of course I didn't have any cash and didn't order any. Anyway, your standard has made me snubb the run of the mill stuff I've seen since.

Chuck
 

Kyle

New User
Kyle Edwards
"Have to be ultra selective when it comes to walnut logs and they must be cut ASAP or the heart wood will start to "bleed" into the sapwood. when it does it distorts the nice shades of red and purple in the heartwood."

I don't think that is a function of the heartwood moving into the sap. If you steam it (the process of bleeding the heartwood into the sap) it will actually make it "dull".

The older walnut is where the red tones tend to be prominent. I have no idea why this is so unless it is an oxidative process. I have honestly never had a problem with color from logs being down a while.
 
J

jeff...

"Have to be ultra selective when it comes to walnut logs and they must be cut ASAP or the heart wood will start to "bleed" into the sapwood. when it does it distorts the nice shades of red and purple in the heartwood."

I don't think that is a function of the heartwood moving into the sap. If you steam it (the process of bleeding the heartwood into the sap) it will actually make it "dull".

The older walnut is where the red tones tend to be prominent. I have no idea why this is so unless it is an oxidative process. I have honestly never had a problem with color from logs being down a while.

Hey Kyle thanks for posting... I like to saw em up while they are fresh. Sawing old walnut is bad... real bad for me... Fresh is bad enough but sawing up old walnut logs is where I come out from behind the saw a different color than when I went in. :eek:
 

Kyle

New User
Kyle Edwards
Hey Kyle thanks for posting... I like to saw em up while they are fresh. Sawing old walnut is bad... real bad for me... Fresh is bad enough but sawing up old walnut logs is where I come out from behind the saw a different color than when I went in. :eek:


the old stuff does seem to be worse..

I get that way with Red Cedar.. I thought that I had fell into a spider nest so to speak sawing some cedar a few weeks back. welts all over and eyes about swollen shut..

walnut seems to do fine..but you gotta wash out your nasal passages with a neti pot to keep the sinus infections at bay..

See guys what lengths us sawyers go to for you to acquire fine hardwood?

:)
 
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