help improve dual drum sander

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Stuart Kent

Stuart
Senior User
thanks, I do blow that out from time to time, and I keep things lubricated fairly often. I'll do it again along with the other suggestions.
 

DWSmith

New User
David
After having a 25" SandMax for several years, I believe your "problem" is as simple as the paper is stretching during use. The paper will stretch and have the appearance of the clamps loosening.
 

Mike Wilkins

Mike
Senior User
Not sure how much help you can get from this. I have the dual-drum sander from Woodworkers Supply; these 25" machines are similar except for paint scheme and some minor cosmetic changes. Call WS and tell them you have the 25" sander and describe the problem. They may have some suggestions that can help. Good luck.
 

striker

Stephen
Corporate Member
Is it possible to remove the clamp mechanism and replace it with a solid steel block? Using the existing mounting hole in the drum you can clamp the paper between the drum ID and the steel block. Not sure what size Flat head that is(guessing 10:32) but replace it with a socket head and I would think you would get good clamping pressure.
 

Alan in Little Washington

Alan Schaffter
Corporate Member
There are fundamental design problems with these machines (I have an old Grizz 1066).

Among other issues including too small diameter drums and too high SFM, many have poorly designed abrasive belt retaining clips and none have a belt clips with a tensioning mechanism. I don't care what kind of abrasive belt, there will always be some stretch. If you don't take up the slack there will be a change in tension between in-feed and out-feed. Two things happen- you will get slack in the end of the belt and that slack will result in a jerking motion on the clips. All this is amplified if the drums are bi-directional. Wide-belt sanders have tensioning systems.

Those machines with tensioning-type clips have problems, too. The belt follows a sharp bend though the drum slit and the belt is clamped against the inside surface of the drum both of which generate too much friction. The springs are too weak to provide reliable, consistent tensioning.

What is needed:

1. Rollers inside the drum at the belt slot to reduce resistance to belt travel to the clamps.
2. Jaw-type belt clamping mechanisms that clamp the belt from both sides, don't press on or contact the drum, and hold the belt securely.
3. Belt clamping mechanisms that also apply tension to the belt.
4. Possibly belt clamping/tensioning mechanisms at each end of the drum.
5. Polished, low-friction drums that allow the belt to slide as the clamping mechanisms apply tension and remove any slack.

Has anyone found a cheap source for the heavy-duty urethane conveyor belts? Grizzly wants almost $400 for a replacement!
 

Stuart Kent

Stuart
Senior User
Is it possible to remove the clamp mechanism and replace it with a solid steel block? Using the existing mounting hole in the drum you can clamp the paper between the drum ID and the steel block. Not sure what size Flat head that is(guessing 10:32) but replace it with a socket head and I would think you would get good clamping pressure.
That's a good one, in the direction I was thinking.
 

danw

dan
Senior User
You could use self adhesive paper rolls. It would be hard to remove but would not stretch or move.
 

Charlie

Charlie
Corporate Member
Stuart,
I have been using the Jet 22-44 for 5 years and I have never had a problem with sandpaper becoming loose. I usually use 100 grit.
Looking at your photos I noticed that the Jet clips are different than yours.



This is the inboard fastener Jet P# 21-1172


This is the outboard fastener Jet P# 21-1173



This is the special tool supplied by Jet for the inboard fastener. Works great.

It may be worth trying the Jet fasteners. 1-800-274-6848 If they require a model/serial #,
use Model 22-44OSC, Serial 08110178.


Alan,
About 2 years ago, Jeremy (WoodWrangler) posted info about poly belts:

I have the Performax 22/44 Plus drum sander and it's standard sandpaper belt. Mine has seen better days and is nearing replacement. A few years back I looked at belts and saw that the pro's use a poly belt instead of sandpaper. They were $300+ at the time ...

Well, a few years later (now) I get back into the market and can't find anything online. I did find an old forum post about this company selling them, so I gave them a buzz. Guess what ... the price went down! I guess the supplier kept getting price increases too the belt was getting close to $500, so they re-sourced the materials and now the belt is $110! (Yeah, I ordered one)


Here's the details ...

[url]http://www.timberww.com/contactUS.aspx[/URL]

Timber Woodworking Machinery
935 E. Southern Ave
Mesa, AZ 85204
Phone: 480-926-2131
Fax: 480-926-2857
 

pviser

New User
paul
Okay, I'll weigh in...I have a General 25'' double drum sander with a similar clamping system. Though I had not had a problem with the paper coming out, I wrapped both ends with 3/4" fiberglass tape. I marked the spot on the outside so that I could avoid contacting the taped ends with my workpiece. I have not missed the 1 1/2" capacity that I have sacrificed by taping the ends. Are you able to yield on this point? Anyway, just a thought...
 

Stuart Kent

Stuart
Senior User
Okay, I'll weigh in...I have a General 25'' double drum sander with a similar clamping system. Though I had not had a problem with the paper coming out, I wrapped both ends with 3/4" fiberglass tape. I marked the spot on the outside so that I could avoid contacting the taped ends with my workpiece. I have not missed the 1 1/2" capacity that I have sacrificed by taping the ends. Are you able to yield on this point? Anyway, just a thought...
This is basically what I do now, but I really would like to have the full width.
 

nn4jw

New User
Jim
Here's a variant on my earlier suggestion. Fold the end of the sandpaper strip on itself, abrasive side in, for maybe 2 inches. Insert a 1/4 or maybe 3/16 dowel cut the width of the sandpaper strip right at the fold. When you insert the strip into the clip be sure the dowel is just beyond the end of the clip and acts like a stopper preventing the strip from pulling back through the clip. With the strip folded abrasive side in it should help keep it from slipping on the dowel or against itself.
 

striker

Stephen
Corporate Member
Well I don't have any first hand knowledge of the issue but it appears stretching of the paper is an issue. just wondering if wrapping the paper while using a strap wrench around the drum would keep the paper taut while clamping it off. Once again, TD try a clamping block in place of the current gadget.

i can see incorporating a small roller device into the clamp block to pull the paper up tight but we're moving beyond the practical.

good luck, Stephen
 

HBFlyer.com

New User
HB
If you go to lumberjocks.com, http://lumberjocks.com/Boxguy/blog/29598. This guy is reliving your experience.

Woodmasters.com sells the velcro and sandpaper quite reasonably. $30 for the velcro and $65 for 25 yards of paper. Woodmasters will also give you advice on how to deal with the clamp (tape it-their words not mine).

Otherwise I'd call Steel City and get one of their techie's on the phone and get them to help me. WoodMasters told me that they only sell hook and loop.
 

Michael Mathews

Michael
Corporate Member
Stuart, i don't know if you've tried this but there is a sequence to follow when loading paper. I believe you must clip the paper onto the outboard clip first. Wrap the drum then clip the inside end. The inside clip on my ryobi sander seems to pull on the end to help keep the paper tight. Worked for my sander!
 

Stuart Kent

Stuart
Senior User
thanks all, I appreciate all the suggestions.

I am loading the paper correctly so that is not the problem. I called customer service and they suggested changing paper brands... (Never like it when companies pass the buck, I've used several brands ranging in quality from budget to Klingspor - that is no the problem).

So far I vacuumed and/or blew out all dust buildup, removed the clips, bent the lead jaws into a stronger arc, and then filed the jaws to hold tighter (don't think the springs are the problem). The proposed paper stretch is overcome to some degree by a perpetual tensioning system on the right hand - which was not working as well as it should due to dust buildup that I could not see until I removed the clips, so that was a minor improvement. I also took the time to zero out both drums and the pressure rollers and then reset them to optimal heights and pressures - so that is no longer a problem either. The paper now holds ok without tape, which is also an improvement, as I am back to 26".

with your help I got the machine back to what I think are factory settings - and the results are ok. I will run it for the next few weeks and let you all know how things go.

thanks again.
 
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