Turning a straight spindle???

[DaveO]

How do y'all go about it? I was turning some ¾" dowels today, about 9-12" long. Started with square stock, rounded with a roughing gouge. Parted down to the desired diameter at both ends. Then finished turned to size with a 1" skew. They looked straight, but after sanding I realized that I had up to a .02" variance in diameter. Luckily these will not be fitting in any holes, they are just going to be cut up into short 1.5-2" spacers, so the exact diameter isn't important.
But there has got to be a way to ensure a consistent diameter across a spindle that I don't know :icon_scra
I did notice that in the middle of the spindle is where I got thinner, and my tool rest seems to have a more worn spot there :dontknow:


Dave

 

[Mike Davis]

I size them with an open end wrench, finish turn with a 2 1/2 inch chisel and sand with a long wood block. Check all along with the wrench so you know when you are close then be very careful not to go too far.

 

[Gotcha6]

I don't see anyone else weighing in on this so here's MTCW: I just started turning (this month) but I find it helpful to have a contrasting color behind the piece with a straight line I can sight by - but I'd be happy if I could eyeball a 9-12" piece within .02. That's about the gap on a set of distributor points ('member them?). The other option I'd suggest is caliper cuts at regular intervals & finish to the cuts.
I don't mean to be presumptive with these ideas, but I'd be glad to hear from some of the darkside too about other ways.

 

[FredP]

I size them with an open end wrench, finish turn with a 2 1/2 inch chisel and sand with a long wood block. Check all along with the wrench so you know when you are close then be very careful not to go too far.

thats what I do. you can use the wrench to get the finished size. get your spindle close[within a 1/64" or so] then with the lathe running lay the wrench on the rest and push it into the spindle and run it right down the rest. this works great for making pegs.:gar-Bi sanding is usually not needed! the wrench will burnish the spindle.:icon_thum

 

[walnutjerry]

I don't see anyone else weighing in on this so here's MTCW: I just started turning (this month) but I find it helpful to have a contrasting color behind the piece with a straight line I can sight by - but I'd be happy if I could eyeball a 9-12" piece within .02. That's about the gap on a set of distributor points ('member them?). The other option I'd suggest is caliper cuts at regular intervals & finish to the cuts.
I don't mean to be presumptive with these ideas, but I'd be glad to hear from some of the darkside too about other ways.

I agree with Dennis on the tolerance of .02-----------that is probably closer than dowels you buy already turned.

Mike also has a good solution I have used quite often-------and it works.

If you do get the perfect dowel in dimension---------measure it again tomorrow and it probably will not be the same.:rotflm:

Jerry

 

[gator]

I know that 12" isn't very long and 3/4" is pretty thick, but, could you be getting some 'whip' in the center where the rod is thinner? Perhaps there is a need for a center rest?

George

 

[CarvedTones]

If you can get the square block to a very tight tolerance, then you can mark the centerline of the faces with a red marker. Cut until the line just starts to disappear (color is blurred, of course, but it changes).

 

[Threejs]

Relax man. If you want machine quality dowels, buy them, don't turn them. The other option is to do it the neanderthal way. Drill holes in a metal plate, and hammer/pull the wood through smaller and smaller holes till you got a dowel the size you want.

 

[Rod]

I also use the marker/pencil technique. I just use a caliper adjusted to the correct diameter...mark what needs to come off...and then sand with a long block. Good luck!
Rod

 

[Rod]

I know that 12" isn't very long and 3/4" is pretty thick, but, could you be getting some 'whip' in the center where the rod is thinner? Perhaps there is a need for a center rest?

George

Sorry...read this after posting the last.

I agree with George. Even with a slight flex/"whip" in the center of the piece, it quickly doubles what you take out when turning at 2000+ rpm.