I need a couple of small pieces of 1.25" or so thick steel plate. By small I mean really smalll - 3" x 2" and 2" x 2". They need dead flat parallel faces.
EDIT - Oh yeah - Cary/Apex/Raleigh area.
EDIT - Oh yeah - Cary/Apex/Raleigh area.
small pieces of thick steel plate
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Andy,
:eusa_naug
There are rules.
You must follow the rules.
I'm sure you know "No pics, didn't happen."
But you forgot that you cannot, you absolutely cannot ask for something obscure and not advise us WHY you want it and WHAT you're going to use it for. Didn't you read WoodWrangler's post, asking for acrylic, and within moments, someone asked, "What'cha gonna do with it?"
So,
Why do you want this and what are you gonna do with it? :icon_scra
BTW, I've no idea where to find this. I'm just up early enforcing the rules.
:eusa_naug
There are rules.
You must follow the rules.
I'm sure you know "No pics, didn't happen."
But you forgot that you cannot, you absolutely cannot ask for something obscure and not advise us WHY you want it and WHAT you're going to use it for. Didn't you read WoodWrangler's post, asking for acrylic, and within moments, someone asked, "What'cha gonna do with it?"
So,
Why do you want this and what are you gonna do with it? :icon_scra
BTW, I've no idea where to find this. I'm just up early enforcing the rules.
I have an oddball 14" band saw that uses the same upper casting as a bunch of others, but a different lower one that results in it being 1.25" shorter. I have a riser kit on the way that will fit it (Grizzly closeout on the G1019 kits; that saw has the same upper casting). I was going to modify the blade guard and get a different blade, but someone pointed out to me that getting spacers (one for each side of the bolt) would be simpler and give me extra cutting height.
-Andy
-Andy
I was thinking about this some more on my drive in to work...
I wonder if I could make the spacer out of hardwood ply and then drill holes and glue in steel rod or maybe screw in threaded inserts near the corners so it wouldn't be subject to compression. It needs to be strong because of the weight, tension and leverage, but going all steel maybe over engineering. Besides, I could make an exact fit.
I wonder if I could make the spacer out of hardwood ply and then drill holes and glue in steel rod or maybe screw in threaded inserts near the corners so it wouldn't be subject to compression. It needs to be strong because of the weight, tension and leverage, but going all steel maybe over engineering. Besides, I could make an exact fit.
Andy, I think that I have some 1-1/4 steel; I'll check later today.
From your post, it seems as if you're building spacers for the blade guard with it, or will this steel be used to align the guides?
Other ways that you could build a spacer are to use some all-thread rod with double nuts, or take some solid round steel and drill it for the appropriate sized bolt, and then machine it to the length that you'd need. You could also use pipe.
Scott
From your post, it seems as if you're building spacers for the blade guard with it, or will this steel be used to align the guides?
Other ways that you could build a spacer are to use some all-thread rod with double nuts, or take some solid round steel and drill it for the appropriate sized bolt, and then machine it to the length that you'd need. You could also use pipe.
Scott
I am talking about a spacer between the riser block and the bottom half of the saw. Basically making the 6" riser into a 7.25" riser. I was going to shorten the blade guard to fit my saw, but if I make a spacer instead, I don't have to do that. It occurs to that I am jumping the gun a bit. I came up with 1.25 because my saw currently takes a 91" blade as opposed to 93.5", which is what most 14" saws take. But in order to get the blade guard on the riser kit to fit, I need to wait until it gets here (it shipped ground a couple of days ago from WA) and figure it more exactly.
ok - this makes more sense. When you figure out the dimensions that you need, send me a PM. I'll rough cut it with a plasma cuttter and then set it up the the mill and machine it to spec.
Will a tolerance of .001 be acceptable or will you need it more precise?
Scott
Will a tolerance of .001 be acceptable or will you need it more precise?
Scott
I can probably help you out. I have access to some odd scrap metal. The faces will only be as parallel as the plate comes from the manufacturer. They should be close enough that you could shim the difference if necessary. PM me if you still need it. I live in the CLT area, but will be in Greensboro next Sat.
LeeNC
LeeNC
That sounds pretty darn precise to me. So I take it you could just machine the entire spacer out of one piece of metal? The more I think about it, I think I do need all metal. The riser block has a big cavity so the pressure is concentrated around the perimeter:
If you look at the top plate, another one of those is what I am after if I can get it. Thick enough to make up the difference between my saw and a "normal" one.
If you look at the top plate, another one of those is what I am after if I can get it. Thick enough to make up the difference between my saw and a "normal" one.
That sounds pretty darn precise to me. So I take it you could just machine the entire spacer out of one piece of metal? The more I think about it, I think I do need all metal. The riser block has a big cavity so the pressure is concentrated around the perimeter:
If you look at the top plate, another one of those is what I am after if I can get it. Thick enough to make up the difference between my saw and a "normal" one.
Scott ain't kidding around, he has the capability to make anything you need...I've seen his toys. Not to mention he's a great guy who would help anyone out.
Dave
Seems like everyone here is friendly and helpful. Are you sure this is the Internet? :wsmile:
-Andy
-Andy
Andy, as I'm sure that you've figured out by now, there is a tremendous group of folks here on NCWoodworker.net. I have learned a lot from the folks here - both about woodworking as well as other areas.
Steve and the admins really do a great job, and the members are just plain great!
I look forward to meeting you in a couple of weeks.
Regards,
Scott
Steve and the admins really do a great job, and the members are just plain great!
I look forward to meeting you in a couple of weeks.
Regards,
Scott
That sounds pretty darn precise to me. So I take it you could just machine the entire spacer out of one piece of metal? The more I think about it, I think I do need all metal. The riser block has a big cavity so the pressure is concentrated around the perimeter:
If you look at the top plate, another one of those is what I am after if I can get it. Thick enough to make up the difference between my saw and a "normal" one.
It will need a hole in it to run the attachment bolt through. It will also need to be thin enough that the alignment pins will extend through it, or you will have to also put alignment pins in the additional spacer.You also may want to wait to see if the riser throws the wheels out of coplaner. If so, you can use the spacer to take out any alignment errors to save a lot of wheel shimming.
Go
Sorry, the old brain was in neutral when I first read your post. I have a length of 5/8' X 2" flat stock. I could cut you two pieces that are 5/8" X 2" X 3". That would give you 1.25 inches added height. Then Scott could drill the alignment pins and bolts. Check to see exactly what size you need. Bruce
It's tough to beat Scott's offer, but what if you just made a spacer out of plywood and inset appropriate size metal spacers (e.g. steel or bronze bushings).
Basically the spacers carry the compressive load and the plywood acts as a matrix holding the spacers in place and guarding the blade.
HD should have the necessary bushings.
-Mark
Basically the spacers carry the compressive load and the plywood acts as a matrix holding the spacers in place and guarding the blade.
HD should have the necessary bushings.
-Mark
This is the only way to go, he can get the holes in the right location as well!
I'm on the internet????? :rotflm: Yes and we have a great group here. Welcome..
I had thought about that and it was plan B, but a distant second to all metal. The weight is all around the edges only so all the bushings would have to be pretty near the edge and pretty numerous to keep it from getting out of position (I think). Valid or not, I had enough concerns to make all metal a much more favored choice.
-Andy
Another knock against the wood idea is that I would not have the option of brazing or welding the spacer to the frame. I am not sure whether that is a good idea or not (I think it might be) but if it isn't metal, I don't have that option. The spacer will make my saw have the distance between wheel centers of most 14" saws and then take the same blade size. It will also make the blade guard and blade in the riser kit fit when I add the riser. If the riser were ever taken back off, I think finding or making a standard guard would be preferable to returning it to the short height, IMO. Not having the spacer fixed in place could make tweaking the alignment trickier. It needs a tweak now, but I am not going to mess with it until I do the riser.
-Andy
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