WIP - Homemade Foredom Relief Carving Jig

[MT native]

INTRODUCTION
I carve in-the-round. Now I want to do relief carving, with power tools. All of my web-based research repeatedly mentions the use of a router to ‘hog out’ the background wood in relief carvings. I do not own a router. I do not own a Dremel nor its plunge router base. The Foredom Precision Router Base from Stewart-MacDonald is too expensive. I do, however own a Foredom rotary tool for carving.

I have weakness in my hands and was looking for a setup that would provide me with extra control and stability. I also wanted something portable since my workbench space is very limited. So after much research and not finding something that I believed would work for me I decided to design my own tabletop sized jig based on CNC designs. I just don’t need all of the electronic gizmos associated with the CNC’s. Plus this was a fun project to create and build.

I would like to thank www.instructables.com for sharing information on projects that I used as inspiration: Easy to Build Desk Top 3 Axis CNC Milling Machine by Tom McWire and Build a CNC Router from Scratch by phooddaniel


See NC Woodworkers "Download Library - Shop Fixtures and Jigs" Category for the final HOMEMADE FOREDOM RELIEF CARVING JIG PARTS LIST http://www.ncwoodworker.net/forums/downloads.php?do=cat&id=4
and the STEP-BY-STEP for your convience.


You can see all of the photo's (PICs) in my NC Woodworker Album http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/showgallery.php?cat=1384&ppuser=0

I hope you enjoy the show... Jane

P.S. MT stands for Montana, not mountain :wink_smil

 

[Sealeveler]

Excellent job.I have a Dremel with drill press and it is very slow and underpowered.I also have a Foredom and your jig would speed cuttings up quite a bit.Thanks for the idea.
Tony

 

[PeteM]

That's quite a machine you have there :icon_thum

Looking forward to seeing some of your carvings!

BTW: You don't need acrobat to create a pdf.
http://www.print-driver.com/howto/convert_word_to_pdf.html

pete

 

[CarvedTones]

I have a Foredom wannabe; actually more powerful but less RPMs (because it would likely smoke at the speeds a real Foredom gets up to ). I made a pantograph for it (I posted about that) and one application I have found is similar but not nearly as precise. I can follow a pattern using a stylus longer than my bit and keeping it vertical but it does require a firm hand. That way I can have the stylus right on the table but the bit is actually up off the table. This only works for a consistent depth though.

 

[MT native]

STEP ONE - Frame and Table
Your size needs are the determinant here. I wanted mine as small as possible but still able to work on standard size reliefs. As built per this design I have a maximum throat clearance (space between the drill bit and the frame) of 7inches (which means my block can be max. 14in across by whatever I want long). Minimum table thickness should be 3/4in. Later I may add a pipe and elbow before the vertical run, and replace the horizontal pipe to the flange to increase the throat depth.
1a. Cut the wood material for the table 16in x 16in.
1b. Use a drill press to drill (4) four holes (two in each 12in section) through the pipes. SEE PIC 1
1c. Assemble the legs of the frame and clamp the wood table top in place.
1d. Drill through the pipe holes and through the wood table. This way you are certain the holes will line up correctly.
1e. Countersink the four (4) holes in the top of table so the bolt heads will be flush with the surface.
1f. Attach the table to the frame legs. DON’T FORGET THE SHIM. SEE PIC 2
1g. Finish assembling the frame. Hand tighten the pipe. SEE PIC 3 Once the jig is completed, tested and works to your expectations, you will check alignment with the table and use Loctite Superglue to fix the threads.
1h. OPTIONAL: I stuck a slick piece of plastic to the table top with double-sided tape. I was concerned that sliding wood blocks around on the MDF would wear the surface of the MDF unevenly over time. Hopefully it won’t prove to be too much of a dust collector.
1i. Stick the rubber Bumpers to the bottoms of the bolts. SEE PIC 4
Follow-up: The rubber bumpers do NOT stay on so I replaced them with
plastic screw covers and slipped them over the nuts. (No picture available)
PIC 1 PIC 2 PIC3 PIC 4

 

[MT native]

Wow, Thanks Pete. Wish I had had that before re-writing the PARTS LIST.

Jane

 

[MT native]

STEP TWO - Construct the Carriage
It’s important to build the carriage before the Z-axis Support because its final size will determine the dimensions of the Support and hardware choices. I laid washers, nuts, bushings and bolts over a piece of paper to determine the dimensions of the Carriage. Again, I was striving for as small a footprint as possible and still maintain structural integrity.

2a. Cut three (3) pieces of hardwood, each 0.75in x 2.5in x 5in. I used a piece of finished 1x4 Oak purchased from the BORG that comes sanded at 3/4in thick and 3-1/2in wide.
BEFORE YOU DRILL Use masking tape to bind the pieces together to ensure hole alignment. SEE PIC 5
** it’s important to make the holes as perpendicular to the wood as possible. If you don’t have a drill press for this make a small jig out of two pieces of wood. Attach them in an “L” shape, turn on its side and set the bit in the inside corner. This will give you a visual reference to keep the bit as straight as possible when drilling**

2b. Drill holes: All three pieces SEE PIC 6
· Four (4) 7/16ths dia holes, one in each corner, centered 3/8th inch from each side
· Three (3) 3/8ths dia holes:
(2) for the Guides (bolts) – centered lengthwise and 1.5in from the sides
(1) for the Depth Adjustment (threaded) Rod – centered 2in from the right side and 0.75in from the back. Because the bolts for the Conduit Hangers, that will hold the Foredom handpiece, will cross through the center of the top/bottom sections the rod the Depth Adjustment (threaded) Rod will have to be offset somewhere between the Hanger bolt and a Guide bolt. I chose the right side because I’m right-handed and wanted the rod to be more comfortable for me to reach and find easily.

2c. Drill Holes: Top and Bottom Sections Only:
· Two (2) 7/16ths dia holes, front to back, centered from the sides. These will be for the bolts to attach the Foredom - Conduit Hangers to the front of the Carriage. See PIC 16
2c-1Follow-up: re-drill the holes for the two Guide bolts and the Depth Adjustment (threaded) Rod to a size larger than 3/8in but not so big that the coupling nut and bushings will slid through them. This is to provide extra space between wood and metal to prevent any potential friction as the carriage moves up/down. :wink_smil READ Step 2d before re-drilling.

2d. Drill holes: Middle Section Only: SEE PIC 7
· Re-drill the two (2) Guide holes one diameter size larger than the O.D. of the Bushings. They will be wedged between two pieces of wood so they won’t come out but you definitely want a little play so the Carriage slides smoothly along the Guides (bolts) once everything is assembled and tightened down. Plus they’ll be easy to pull out and replace once worn. * Insert the Bushings.
· Re-drill the hole for the threaded rod one diameter size larger than the O.D. of the Coupling Nut. * Insert the Coupling Nut
2e. Drill hole: Middle Section Only: for the Locking Handle SEE PIC 8
· One (1) hole, centered in the side, for the Locking Handle. The diameter should match the Coupling Nut O.D. and run from the edge to the nearest Guide hole. NOTE: originally I thought I needed handles on both sides but I found that one Locking Handle is sufficient so choose the side you’re comfortable with. I will be adjusting the depth with my dominant right hand so my Locking handle is on the left.

2f. Assemble the three sections and hand tighten. Add washers, the same thickness as the Bushing flanges, to make the carriage level and provide stability under routing stress. SEE PIC 9

PIC 5 PIC 6 PIC 7
PIC 8 PIC 9

 

[MT native]

STEP THREE – Construct the Carriage Locking Handle
3a. Insert the Coupling Nut as perpendicular as possible (and if the hole for the Coupling Nut is a little too small, like mine was) by using a short bolt to aid in getting the Coupling into the wood. FYI: A long bolt will bend. SEE PIC 10

3b. Drill holes in a Flat Washer and screw the washer over the end of the Coupling Nut to secure it in place. Otherwise the Nut will work loose and come out of the wood under stress when the handle is tightened. Attach to the side of the Middle Section with small thread 1/2in wood screws. SEE PIC 11

3c. Cut a 4in piece off of the end of your threaded rod. Use a Hack Saw. SEE PIC 12

3d. Insert the 4in threaded rod into a piece 0.25in I.D. Vinyl Tubing (found in the Plumbing Section of the BORG. I paid $0.82 for the min. 1ft length). Place the rod/tubing into a vise and bend it to make the Handle. I used a piece of pipe about 1.5in over the end of the rod to bend it into an “L” shape. SEE PIC 13

3e. Dry Fit the Handle(s) into the Middle Section of the Carriage. Trim off the excess tubing. SEE PIC 14

PIC 10 PIC 11 PIC 12 PIC 13 PIC 14

 

[MT native]

STEP FOUR – Foredom Hangers

4a. Bolt the electrical Conduit Hangers to the front of Carriage, with the lock washer and nut. Place the Foredom Handpiece in the Hangers and check to make sure there is clearance between the end of the carriage bolt and the Handpiece. Otherwise the bolt metal will damage the Handpiece during routing. SEE PIC 15

4b. Use a barrier on the inside of the hangers to prevent damaging the Foredom Handpiece and provide extra grip. Originally I used Flex Bandaids SEE PIC 16 but they ended up being sticky and messy. I replaced them with thin rubber bicycle tire tube patch dots (not shown). Follow-up: I was wrong. DO NOT do this. What a mess. Leave the hangers as they come. :slap:

PIC 15 PIC 16

 

[MT native]

STEP FIVE – Z-axis Support Construction
The Z-axis Support holds the Guides and the Depth Adjustment Rod so the Carriage moves up/down smoothly and stabilizes it from sideways stresses during routing.

Now that the Carriage is constructed you can figure out the size of the Support. I chose to have it narrower than the Carriage because my Oak board came 0.75in thick and 3.5in wide.
Follow-up: 3.5in ended up being too narrow to also attach the Depth Gauge and Dust Collector Hose. Widen the Support to a min. of 5in.
The length of the back (I’ll call it the ‘spine’ of the Support needed to be enough to allow the Carriage to run several inches up/down. I had tried several different Guide lengths and decided a 9in long bolt would work best for my needs. However 9in bolts are not available so I bought 10in bolts and will cut them down. Knowing the length of the Guides I was able to figure out the dimensions of the Support.

Support Body
Wood is stronger when stressed along the grain (longitudinally) than it is when stressed across the grain (radially and tangentially), which also explains why my first design failed (haha). It also expands and contracts in response to humidity so by joining the pieces end-to-end (the grain running in the same direction) allows the wood to expand and maintain the support.
5a. Cut three pieces of hardwood for the body of the Support.
Back: 0.75in x 3.5in 5.0in x 6-11/16in :icon_thum
Top and Bottom: 0.75in x 3.5in 5.0in x 3.5in :icon_thum

Drill Pocket-holes
The Support has only three sides. The top/bottom ends must be attached to the ‘spine’ with as much strength as possible. Screws on brackets will work loose so I chose to join the wood with pocket-holes.

5b. Clamp the three pieces together. MAKE SURE THEY ARE SQUARE. SEE PIC 17 and 18

5c. Drill holes for the hex bolts through the end pieces and into the ‘spine’ 1/2in deeper than the length of the bolt.

5d. Use a pencil to mark where the end of the four bolts will be on the ‘spine’. Use a 5/8in drill bit or Forstner bit and drill four ‘pocket’ holes through the ‘spine’ so once the bolts are inserted you can get the nut on the end of the bolt. SEE PIC 19

5e. The ‘spine’ will bolt to the pipe Floor Flange so mark the location of the four holes, centered in both directions, and drill those holes.

Horizontal Stabilizers
If you’re like me the holes you’ve drilled are not perfect. Therefore you need a way to adjust the Guides once the Jig is setup. One way to do this is to use what I call a ‘Horizontal Stabilizer’. Horizontal because you can tighten/loosen the screws to move the top of the Guide left/right/front/back in small increments and then lock it in place by tightening the screws against the Guide.

5f. Cut the hardwood so there will be at least 3/8in to the edge from the O.D. of the drilled hole, on any side. I cut the wood into 0.5in x 1.5in x 1.5in blocks.

5g. Drill the holes through the centers of the Stabilizers just a little larger in diameter than the Guides. SEE PIC 20

5h. On my Jig, one of the Stabilizers is in the way of the Depth Adjustment (threaded) Rod so a corner was cut off to provide clearance. SEE PIC 22

5i. Drill four (4) holes through the sides of each Stabilizer using a bit two diameter sizes smaller than the screws you will use. This is to avoid cracking the wood when the screws are inserted while ensuring the screw threads will have sufficient grip in the wood to hold the Guide in place. SEE PIC 22 and 23


PIC 17 PIC 18 PIC 19 PIC 20 PIC 21 PIC 22 PIC 23

 

[MT native]

STEP SIX – Locate Guide Holes in Z-axis Support

6a. Put the two bolts and threaded rod in the Carriage. Set the Carriage FRONT SIDE DOWN (so it will line up with the front of Z-axis Support when assembled). Level the Carriage in both directions. SEE PIC 24

6b. Add spacers to simulate the travel clearance you will have between the bolt heads in the Carriage and the ‘spine’ of the Support. In this case it’s 5/16in.
SEE PIC 25

6c. Remove one of the ends. Place the Z-axis Support on top of the Carriage. Center the Carriage and square it up to the Z-axis Support. SEE PIC 26

6d. Mark the locations of the holes. SEE PIC 27

6e. Repeat leveling, centering and marking for the other end.

PIC 24 PIC 25 PIC 26 PIC 27

 

[MT native]

STEP SEVEN – Determine Support Height Above Table
Figure out how much vertical play you need the Z-axis Support (and therefore the Foredom) to have above the table for whatever thickness of block you want to hog-out.

7a. Dry Fit the Support to the Frame. I attached the Z-axis Support to the pipe Flange and set the Carriage in the Support. SEE PIC 28 As the picture shows the router bit is in contact with table - NOT A GOOD IDEA. :eusa_naug

7b. Ask yourself some questions, :eusa_thin such as: What is the lowest point the Support can be in order for the Router Bit to leave a min. 1/2in above the table? SEE PIC 29 What is the thickest wood block I might want to carve?
I realized that in order to adjust the vertical height of the Support/Router Bit I needed to cut channels in the Support ‘spine’ so not only the router bit depth could be adjusted but the entire Z-axis Support height could be adjusted. I propped up the Support with several scrap pieces of wood SEE PIC 30 to determine what the max vertical play the Support can have in relation to the table top. Because my Support is only 3.5in wide the vertical range is limited by the Flange bolt hole locations in the ‘spine’ (I didn’t want the channels too close to the pocket-holes or they’d fail under stress) as well as the lowest possible point where the bit would be 1/2in above the table. SEE PIC 30
Follow-up: The lengths of the channels may change now that the jig is a min. of 5.0" wide and there is more space between the channels and the pocket holes. Still, be careful.
7c. Drill out the channels in the Z-axis Support ‘spine’ piece of wood

PIC 28 PIC 29 PIC 30

 

[MT native]

STEP EIGHT – ASSEMBLE THE JIG
SEE PIC 31 Ended up that I don’t need the Horizontal Stabilizers on the bottom.

SEE PIC 32 Picture shows one of the bolt ends has been cut off (use a Hack Saw) and the piece of threaded rod I was using was too short to allow room for the knob. I cut a new, longer piece with the hack saw.
Follow-up: I ended up changing out the smaller knob for a larger more comfortable one so I cut a new threaded rod that was a little longer so the knob would not bump into the Stabilizer. (no picture available)

SEE PIC 33 I added a penny at the bottom of the Depth Adjustment Rod. Without it the Carriage did not move up/down when the rod was turned because the whole rod moved up/down. Now just the Carriage moves.

PIC 31 PIC 32 PIC 33

 

[MT native]

STEP NINE – TEST RUN
SEE PIC 34 and 35 – So here is what the Jig looks like so far. Now I need to hook up some POWER and take this baby for a spin.

Igor exclaimed, “It’s ALIVE!!! Dr. Frankenstein” :saw: SEE PIC 36

I tried adjusting the bit to varying depths before settling on one depth and hoggin-out the background. The Jig worked beautifully :eusa_clap even if I say so myself. HeeHee :gar-Bi SEE PIC 37, 38 and 39.


PIC 34 PIC 35 PIC 36 PIC 37 PIC 38 PIC 39

 

[Ed DelCogliano]

I have done a lot of relief carvings and your jig is very impressive but your detailed writting and pictures on how you made this jig is unbelieveable. You have done a great job and I thank you from all who carve. Regards Ed

 

[Gotcha6]

Jane, I believe you're like me in that I often enjoy making the jigs & tools as much as the woodworking project they're for!
Looks like we guys will have to modify one of our phrases for all you ladies out there & say you definitely have the 'Wood Gal Disease'.
Ups 2 ya for finding a way to overcome your disability & enjoy your WWing. And thanks for sharing it here.:thumbs_up

 

[MT native]

Andy,
I checked out the post on your pantograph, after not finding the photo's in your Album. I was wondering if you've worked with it more and had some luck improving that deflection issue? If you recommend the design I may try to build one myself, later...

FYI: I've added the bulk of the photos and step-by-step instructions for my jig in the thread I started. Please check it out and tell me if you can recommend ways to improve the design. So far I'm VERY pleased with how it performs but I would still appreciate input. Thanks,

Jane

 

[MT native]

Dennis and Ed,
Thanks for the "thumb up":icon_thum. I did enjoy designing :widea: and building :BangHead: the jig. It's even more fun to operate. :gar-Bi Please let me know if you see ways to improve the design :eusa_thin

Jane

 

[CarvedTones]

I should take some more pictures (and yeah, I usually post them to PhotoBucket because it is easier). I did deal with the deflection issue, but it cost me so much in the Z axis that I didn't bother posting it as the final solution. I just drilled a hole through the center of 2 small boards and used a bolt and wingnut to use this like a clamp to stabilize the handpiece and stylus. It still has plenty of Z for most relief. I haven't done any "real" projects with it yet, just tracing a few things as tests Switching to the spiral saw cutting bit made a huge difference also; it isn't nearly as grabby as the Typhoon. That coarse Typhoon is a really scary bit, BTW. If you don't have a fair amount of hand strength, I recommend against using one freehand. It's like a little bitty studded tire.

 

[CarvedTones]

I would be interested in an action shot or video. I am not clear on the operation. Are you moving the blank around or adjusting bolts to move the handpiece around?