attaching a handle to a wooden mug

[kaysa]

Hello all,

I've recently made a 6" tall mug which I would like to attach with a handle. I haven't fashioned the handle yet, because I have no idea how to attach it! I realize that a proper glue joint can be 'stronger than the wood itself', but simply gluing the handle to the mug surface doesn't seem like it would be very sturdy - not to mention the curvature issues.

Any thoughts? Ideas?:BangHead:

 

[ScottM]

A good quality wood glue should hold it. You will need to sand the ends of the handle to match the curve of the mug and create a good flush fit. If the mug is already finished you will need gorlilia glue or the like as wood glue needs wood to wood contact.

 

[skeeter]

How thick is the mug wall? Maybe a really thin dowel in the mug and handle would give extra support.

 

[DaveO]

How thick is the mug wall? Maybe a really thin dowel in the mug and handle would give extra support.

+1, or shape a round tenon on the ends of the handle to fit into holes bored in the mug body. The key is getting as much surface are for the glue as possible.
MTCW,
Dave

 

[Mike Davis]

Sliding dovetail joint.

Nuff said! :wink_smil

 

[jeff...]

My votes for mortise and tendon You could always carve out the handle with your pocket knife while sitting on the front porch.

 

[nelsone]

Sliding dovetail joint.

Nuff said! :wink_smil

Dang Mike, you beat me to it!

 

[kaysa]

How thick is the mug wall? Maybe a really thin dowel in the mug and handle would give extra support.

The wall is abut 5/16. I was thinking about carving out a small indent that the handle ends would fit into, but I'm afraid that if I mess up, I'll have to make a new cup.

 

[kaysa]

Dang Mike, you beat me to it!

Ok so help me out. . . what is a sliding dovetail joint?

 

[DaveO]

A sliding DT joint is like a dado but the sides are angled like a DT. In your case, assuming that you want two points of attachment (thinking beer mug style here...what else) I don't think that a sliding DT would be your best bet. You would need an entry point, at the bottom of the mug. But unless the handle went from top to bottom you would have to fill that entry point. Not to mention any gap between the two legs of the handle.
I'll stand by the dowel/tenon solution unless I am picturing your project totally wrong.
MTCW,
Dave

 

[FredP]

if you do a sliding dovetail your handle would be a "D" shap instead of a "U" shape. the strait side of the "D" would be the tail side and the slot would go in the mug. or you cound make the "D" and simply cut a flat on the mug to glue the handle on. it doesnt realy have to be dovetailed.

 

[Mike Davis]

I just throw the pearls out there, you can string them together or stomp them in the mud. Doesn't matter to me either way. :widea:

 

[nelsone]

if you do a sliding dovetail your handle would be a "D" shap instead of a "U" shape. the strait side of the "D" would be the tail side and the slot would go in the mug. or you cound make the "D" and simply cut a flat on the mug to glue the handle on. it doesnt realy have to be dovetailed.

Yea, but the little dovetail key at the rim would look pretty cool!

 

[Mike Davis]

With a sliding dovetail D handle there would be no need for glue.

Think curved.

Make the D curved to fit the curve of the cup, taper the slot and the key so the handle tightens as the weight of the cup pulls down against it.

If I say any more I might give it away. :roll: