Advice needed for mirror frame

[koslonc]

I'd like some advice on the construction details for a mirror frame I'm making. The frame is a basic stile and rail frame, containing a recessed mirror.

The mirror is 30" x 36" x 3/16" so I was going to make the frame using 3/4" walnut with inside dimensions of 29.5" x 35.5", allowing for a 1/4" overlap for the mirror on all sides, resting in a 1/4" by 3/8" rabbet in the back of the frame. I would then run a bead of silicone around the perimiter of the mirror where it meets the inside edge of the rabbet. I also plan to route a keyhole slot in each rail to be able to flush mount the frame to a wall.

The questions I have:

1) Is the 1/4" x 3/8" rabbet wide and deep enough for the mirror?
2) Is silicone an acceptable way to secure the mirror to the frame or are there better options?
3) Are keyhole slots in the stiles a good way to flush-mount the frame?

Any input is appreciated.

 

[Canuck]

Jeff

I did a framed mirror very close to the size you have a couple of years ago. I cut a 1/4" x 3/8" rabbet in it and it worked out perfect.:icon_thum

As far as mounting the mirror, I took the frame and mirror over to a local picture framing shop and they laid a piece of foam backing (about 1/8" thick) and on the back of the mirror and used a picture framing nailer to secure the mirror in the frame. (They just charged me for the cost of the foam backing.)

(They used a Fletcher-Terry framing nailer to secure the mirror to the frame. I have one here at the house now if you wanted to stop by to secure the mirror when you are ready.)


Keyholes should work fine as long as you have heavy screws and anchors in to the wall. Mirrored frames tend to be on the heavy side.

Wayne

 

[koslonc]

Thanks for the input Wayne,

I may take you up on the offer to secure the mirror with your nailer when the time comes.

Jeff

 

[Mike Mendelsohn]

I built a similar sized mirror last year. I routed a double rabbet around the inside. The deeper rabbet is the size of the mirror and the shallow rabbet is 1" larger. I then set the mirror in the deep rabbet and added a sheet of hardboard behind it screwing it into the shallow rabbet to secure the mirror in place.

Considering the weight, I used a french cleat that is 1/2" thick to hang the mirror. The cleat is screwed into a pair of studs. I also made the frame extra strong using lapped miter joints in the corners.

Mike

 

[golfdad]

You can use this also...works great ... Woodworkers Supply in Graaham carries itccasion1

 

[toolferone]

I picked these up at Woodcraft. They are very strong.

I used a forstner bit to drill overlapping holes to sink these in flush with the back, going depper in the slot area for screw head clearence.

 

[pviser]

I'm with Mike on the double rabbet, overlying hardboard/plywood backing screwed into place, and the French cleat hanging method. Hanging mirrors calls for erring on the beefy side, and none of these beefier options would show or otherwise detract aesthetically.

 

[Dutchman]

I'm with Mike on the double rabbet, overlying hardboard/plywood backing screwed into place, and the French cleat hanging method. Hanging mirrors calls for erring on the beefy side, and none of these beefier options would show or otherwise detract aesthetically.

+1 on the double rabb for the back panel.
I have drawn LOTS of mirrors, and I only use a french cleat method of attachment when the mirror is VERY heavy. However, they are an easy way to do it if you can inset the mirror and back around 3/4 (cleat allowance). A large number of mirrors use what is called a bulldog for attachemnt. YOu then attach a wire to the bulldogs (which maybe a brand name, just what I call them). If you use a wire, there are lots of different methods for attaching to the stud.