M
McRabbet
About three weeks ago, I reported on progress I was making on a commissioned project for a branch of the UNC-Asheville called the Center for Craft, Creativity and Design. In this thread, I'll continue the shop work discussion and show how everything has come together for the two units I've built.
As a refresher, here is the design --
Two units with large bulletin board areas on each side behind locked glazed doors. The last thread addressed the glazed doors and I'll continue with putting them into their frames.
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1. Assembling the frame with a 44-1/2'' x 39-1/2'' sheet of tempered hardboard set into a groove to support the cork board;
2. For best fit, I decided to mortise the piano hinge into the frame -- here, I'm guiding a 1/8'' deep x 1/2'' wide router cut with an edge guide (uses a 1/4'' bit) -- but the edge guide prevents finishing the mortise to the pencil point, so...
3. I re-positioned the edge guide to make a climb cut so the guide follows the outside of the frame -- real care had to be taken to avoid freehand cut into the frame and grabbing with the climb cut.
4. Success! I mounted the hinges on the doors first and then,
5. Checked the completion of the mortise and position of the hinge.
6. Next I flipped the door open and screwed the hinges into place... Let's see, eight doors with 17 screws on each side of the piano hinges = 272 1/16'' pilot holes and 272 screws...
7. And here is a resulting frame with doors on each side.
Next, on to the field installation -- I didn't take pictures of the joinery details (one shown later), but accuracy in the big timbers was critical for those doors and frames to fit. Here's our sequence:
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10. 
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12. 
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8. After digging the 12'' holes with a 2-man auger, the 6x6x12' posts were placed in the holes and the half-lapped 4x4 horizontal beams clamped in place. Support diagonals kept the posts perfectly plumb and opposing braces kept the critical rectangular opening perfectly square before the concrete was poured.
9. Two days later, the 4x4 roof framework was added, supported by half-lapped 4x4 diagonals.
10. A ten-foot long ridge board was dropped into a slot atop the 6x6 posts and 2x4 rafters added. It is strong -- it supported my weight on the rood frame putting in the rafters!:icon_chee Next, 1/2'' PT plywood sheathing and 30# roofing paper was added.
11. And finally, 30-year architectural tab shingles were applied to top it off. The Center offices and display gallery are in the background.
12. The final test -- would the pair of framed doors fit the rough lumber? Dead perfect with less than 1/8'' of gap total!!
13. And the doors even open and close as expected!! :eusa_clap
14. The real secret to maintaining the accuracy was carefully cut half-lap joinery in the PT beams. Here the upper main horizontal 4x4 laps a vertical 6x6 and the rood support frame sits in a half-lap joint just above it. The diagonals were half-lapped onto the roof frame and lag screwed 3'' into the main uprights. The roof ridge and rafters can be seen in the background.
The client is very pleased and she promised me more work! Plus, I could afford a new jointer from the proceeds!
Thanks for looking.
As a refresher, here is the design --
Two units with large bulletin board areas on each side behind locked glazed doors. The last thread addressed the glazed doors and I'll continue with putting them into their frames. 1.
2. 
3. 
4.
5.
6. 
7. 
1. Assembling the frame with a 44-1/2'' x 39-1/2'' sheet of tempered hardboard set into a groove to support the cork board;
2. For best fit, I decided to mortise the piano hinge into the frame -- here, I'm guiding a 1/8'' deep x 1/2'' wide router cut with an edge guide (uses a 1/4'' bit) -- but the edge guide prevents finishing the mortise to the pencil point, so...
3. I re-positioned the edge guide to make a climb cut so the guide follows the outside of the frame -- real care had to be taken to avoid freehand cut into the frame and grabbing with the climb cut.
4. Success! I mounted the hinges on the doors first and then,
5. Checked the completion of the mortise and position of the hinge.
6. Next I flipped the door open and screwed the hinges into place... Let's see, eight doors with 17 screws on each side of the piano hinges = 272 1/16'' pilot holes and 272 screws...
7. And here is a resulting frame with doors on each side.
Next, on to the field installation -- I didn't take pictures of the joinery details (one shown later), but accuracy in the big timbers was critical for those doors and frames to fit. Here's our sequence:
8.
9. 
10. 
11.
12. 
13. 
14.
8. After digging the 12'' holes with a 2-man auger, the 6x6x12' posts were placed in the holes and the half-lapped 4x4 horizontal beams clamped in place. Support diagonals kept the posts perfectly plumb and opposing braces kept the critical rectangular opening perfectly square before the concrete was poured.
9. Two days later, the 4x4 roof framework was added, supported by half-lapped 4x4 diagonals.
10. A ten-foot long ridge board was dropped into a slot atop the 6x6 posts and 2x4 rafters added. It is strong -- it supported my weight on the rood frame putting in the rafters!:icon_chee Next, 1/2'' PT plywood sheathing and 30# roofing paper was added.
11. And finally, 30-year architectural tab shingles were applied to top it off. The Center offices and display gallery are in the background.
12. The final test -- would the pair of framed doors fit the rough lumber? Dead perfect with less than 1/8'' of gap total!!
13. And the doors even open and close as expected!! :eusa_clap
14. The real secret to maintaining the accuracy was carefully cut half-lap joinery in the PT beams. Here the upper main horizontal 4x4 laps a vertical 6x6 and the rood support frame sits in a half-lap joint just above it. The diagonals were half-lapped onto the roof frame and lag screwed 3'' into the main uprights. The roof ridge and rafters can be seen in the background.
The client is very pleased and she promised me more work! Plus, I could afford a new jointer from the proceeds!
Thanks for looking.
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