What is the best bandsaw blade for the money?
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I read Engler's book and you have to figure out :
1) what is the smallest radius curve you want to cut
2) what are you cutting
3) how thick is the material you are cutting.
Suffolk Machinery Corp.
I got their 3/8" 4pc and think it's wonderful. Most of what I've cut is 1/2 to 3" thick hardwood.
Todd
1) what is the smallest radius curve you want to cut
2) what are you cutting
3) how thick is the material you are cutting.
Suffolk Machinery Corp.
I got their 3/8" 4pc and think it's wonderful. Most of what I've cut is 1/2 to 3" thick hardwood.
Todd
I like the bimetal blades from:
Woodcraftbands.com
Call John there. He doesn't charge for advise and his prices can't be beat.
Woodcraftbands.com
Call John there. He doesn't charge for advise and his prices can't be beat.
HI Mike -
I agree with the previous posts- type (width, # teeth/in) of blade depends upon what you will do. In general, I have had great luck with the Timber Wolf line of blades - they are sharp, last a long time and readily available. I get mine through Woodcraft.
Best
Wayne
I agree with the previous posts- type (width, # teeth/in) of blade depends upon what you will do. In general, I have had great luck with the Timber Wolf line of blades - they are sharp, last a long time and readily available. I get mine through Woodcraft.
Best
Wayne
I just got 3 blades from Woodcraftbands.com as well. The guy I talked to was super nice, and they are a company located in North Carolina. I considerd that a bonus. Woodguy had steered me to this business. Ordered Wednesday morning, got em Thursday, spent $40. Got one for resaw, one for curves, and one for common work. Here's what I got.
for the resaw blade: P-106 [FONT=Times New Roman, Times, serif]1/2” X .025 - [/FONT]3H
for the common work: P-104 [FONT=Times New Roman, Times, serif]1/4” X .025 - [/FONT][FONT=Times New Roman, Times, serif]6H
[/FONT][FONT=Times New Roman, Times, serif]for curving work: [/FONT]P-103 [FONT=Times New Roman, Times, serif]3/16”X .025 - 10R[/FONT]
for the resaw blade: P-106 [FONT=Times New Roman, Times, serif]1/2” X .025 - [/FONT]3H
for the common work: P-104 [FONT=Times New Roman, Times, serif]1/4” X .025 - [/FONT][FONT=Times New Roman, Times, serif]6H
[/FONT][FONT=Times New Roman, Times, serif]for curving work: [/FONT]P-103 [FONT=Times New Roman, Times, serif]3/16”X .025 - 10R[/FONT]
My experience with silicon steel blades (Timberwolf/Suffolk Mach) is that they start out very sharp, they cut great, but they don't last a long time, particularly when resawing very hard wood. I have no complaints. They cut good while they cut. They are significantly better than the cheapo BORG blades.
I have heard that the bimetal blades last three times as long as a si steel blade. I'm going to order some Lennox bimetal blades from John at woodcraftbands when my last few steel resawing blades start to dull.
A 3/8, 6 TPI is pretty good for gentle curves (not scrolling) and ripping stock to 2 1/2 inch thick or so. A 1/2 inch 3TPI for resawing. 1/4 inch high tooth count (don't remember what I use) for small radius work. You can go down to 1/8 for scrolling if you want.
Chuck
I have heard that the bimetal blades last three times as long as a si steel blade. I'm going to order some Lennox bimetal blades from John at woodcraftbands when my last few steel resawing blades start to dull.
A 3/8, 6 TPI is pretty good for gentle curves (not scrolling) and ripping stock to 2 1/2 inch thick or so. A 1/2 inch 3TPI for resawing. 1/4 inch high tooth count (don't remember what I use) for small radius work. You can go down to 1/8 for scrolling if you want.
Chuck
Bottom line is simple. The carbon steel and silicon steel blades are cheap, but don't last very long. Bimetals last 2-3 times longer and cost accordingly. As a bonus the Bimetal blades will cut aluminum and brass if I need to so I always keep a bimetal on one of my saws.
I've used them all and stick with the Bimetals. the cheap carbon steel blades from Woodcraft Bands work fine, but know they won't last very long. I keep 1/2" Hook or 3/8" Hook blades on all my saws.
Good Luck,
John
I've used them all and stick with the Bimetals. the cheap carbon steel blades from Woodcraft Bands work fine, but know they won't last very long. I keep 1/2" Hook or 3/8" Hook blades on all my saws.
Good Luck,
John
Can't beat the price and quick service from Woodcraft Bands.
J
jeff...
Lenox Woodmaster C 1-1/2 x 42
WoodMaster C
Made in the good ole USA with good ole US steel. I love em, they cut clean, last a while and I can sharpen about 8 times before I have to toss them. Although I have to admit I broke one last Sat, but it was my fault, I was going a little too fast and my lube ran dry.
WoodMaster C
Made in the good ole USA with good ole US steel. I love em, they cut clean, last a while and I can sharpen about 8 times before I have to toss them. Although I have to admit I broke one last Sat, but it was my fault, I was going a little too fast and my lube ran dry.
For resawing, you can't beat Highlands Hdwrs 1/2" Woodslicer. I always keep 1 or 2 on hand.
J
jeff...
Lenox also makes a Furn-Master B, have you guys tried that one?
Furn-Master B
If it's anything like there WoodMaster C it's a good blade at a good price. Plus it's made in the good ole USA, which is rare these days.
I don't know is if I would like the bi-metal blades much on my band saw. Yes they are harder and last longer but the hardness is what bothers me. 35 HP is pretty rough on my bands, so I think I would end up breaking them before the end of sharpening cycles. I like the softer carbon steel, it bends pretty well, easy to sharpen and seems to work well under heat, without breaking too much. But I think I would goto carbide tips before I went with bi-metal if I were to ever change.
Thanks
Furn-Master B
If it's anything like there WoodMaster C it's a good blade at a good price. Plus it's made in the good ole USA, which is rare these days.
I don't know is if I would like the bi-metal blades much on my band saw. Yes they are harder and last longer but the hardness is what bothers me. 35 HP is pretty rough on my bands, so I think I would end up breaking them before the end of sharpening cycles. I like the softer carbon steel, it bends pretty well, easy to sharpen and seems to work well under heat, without breaking too much. But I think I would goto carbide tips before I went with bi-metal if I were to ever change.
Thanks
A lot will depend on your machine. Although I don't have one, I have read that the Woodslicer from Highland Hardware is a great resaw blade.
Suffolk Machinery supplies blades that are held in high regard also.
I have a Laguna LT-18, and I use the blades that come from Laguna:
1. Resawing-the Resaw King blade in 1" width for resawing
2. Thick ripping-the Laguna 1" steel blade
3. Gentle curves-1/2" steel blade made by Starrett
4. Tighter scroll cuts-1/4" blade from Laguna
I suggest getting the bandsaw book by Lonnie Bird or Mark Duginske. These have a ton of info on bandsaws and proper blade selection.
Good luck and watch those fingers.
Suffolk Machinery supplies blades that are held in high regard also.
I have a Laguna LT-18, and I use the blades that come from Laguna:
1. Resawing-the Resaw King blade in 1" width for resawing
2. Thick ripping-the Laguna 1" steel blade
3. Gentle curves-1/2" steel blade made by Starrett
4. Tighter scroll cuts-1/4" blade from Laguna
I suggest getting the bandsaw book by Lonnie Bird or Mark Duginske. These have a ton of info on bandsaws and proper blade selection.
Good luck and watch those fingers.
For an all around blade I would get a 1/4 inch. You can do pretty tight curves and do most cutting. On my 14" saw, 75 percent of the time I ran a 1/4 inch blade because most of what I did with it was curve cutting.
As for brands, you pay for what you get. If you are starting out, it doesn't hurt to go cheap to get a feel for what you like and don't like. Personally, I have a hard time recognizing or knowing when a blade is dull or shot. I will say it is always good to have a spare on hand. I don't remember if the saw you got is a 2 or 3 wheel, but if it is a 3 wheel, expect to break lots of blades DAMHIKT.
As for brands, you pay for what you get. If you are starting out, it doesn't hurt to go cheap to get a feel for what you like and don't like. Personally, I have a hard time recognizing or knowing when a blade is dull or shot. I will say it is always good to have a spare on hand. I don't remember if the saw you got is a 2 or 3 wheel, but if it is a 3 wheel, expect to break lots of blades DAMHIKT.
I would suggest giving a bimetal blade a try. The Woodslicer is great out of the box, but dulls incredibly quick due to it's thin gage. A bimetal from Woodcraft bands will run you about the same as the woodslicer too.
I've used every blade on the market except for the resaw king and always find myself back to the bimetals. My saws see a lot of use so I quickly get a feeling for how long they last. Good Luck,
John
Woodguy, As luck would have it , I planed a Woodcraft pilgrimage today. I'll take your advice and try their bimetal blade since I do a lot of resawing
HPM67, If you are talking about wood craft, they are about 2 miles west of the Raliegh beltline (440) on US70 (Gleenwood).
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