Wanted: Dovetail Jig instructions

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Ralrick

New User
Rick
I'm new ot the forum and was reviewing some older threads. There were a few mentions of the dovetail jig instructions that people downloaded from woodworkerinternational.com. The links no longer work and I could not find the manual at their site.

Does anyone have a copy they could email me? I have just purchased a used PC 4212 jig and having a tough time understanding the manual. thanks.
 

NCPete

New User
Pete Davio
Rick, I have recently spent entirely too much time setting up a DT jig. tell me you are making half blind DT's and I may be able to help with setup.
 

Ralrick

New User
Rick
Thanks Tom. I actually have the PC manual - guess I'm just not getting it from the way it is described in the manual. It sounded like there were more detailed instructions from the woodworker international website that many referenced as being very thorough and complete.
 

Ralrick

New User
Rick
Pete -

I haven't made any dovetails yet. Just got the jig last week and have been reading through the manual - I guess it will make more sense when I actaully have the jig infront of me while reading the manual but I have to admit the manual seems to be lacking in clarity. Others had mentioned detailed step by step instructions that they found very helpful on other sites rather than using the supplied manual.

Are 1/2 blind DT's more difficult than standard DT? I'm looking to start with the easiest method first . . . .
 

NCPete

New User
Pete Davio
sheesh, I don't know which might be 'easier' I do know that I spent 2 1/2 hours setting up my jig and router for HBDT's the other day:oops:
 

Canuck

Wayne
Corporate Member
Pete -.

Are 1/2 blind DT's more difficult than standard DT? I'm looking to start with the easiest method first . . . .

Hi Rick,

I have the same jig. In the past, I have found that setting up half-blind DT's are quite a bit easier than through DT's with this jig. I agree, that the manual leaves a lot to be desired!:BangHead: The nice part of cutting the HB DT's is that you cut both the pin board and tail board at the same time. For me the trick was setting the bit depth and template set-back. Lot's of practice on some cheap pine, and I am sure that you will find all of the little nuances.

There was also a copy of an "advanced manual" on the PC website that I downloaded. It really discusses how to adapt the jig to cut DT's in wider than 12" stock.

Hang in there ......it will come together ok for ya, I am sure. (Oh ya. When you purchased the used jig, did you get the original bits and bushings that come with the 4212? Just a thought....)

Wayne
 

Ralrick

New User
Rick
thanks Jim - that is the document that others were referring to in previous posts. I think it is much more detailed than the PC manual.
 

Nativespec

New User
David
You can get it from the Porter Cable website-they also have an advanced manual. I have the same one-pretty easy to use.
 

photog

New User
Dan
I have the 4212 too, but have only used it on scrap to test making a half blind and a through. I’m resawing Poplar down right now in preparation for making drawer boxes and my first real application of the jig. My tests came out ok, but I did experience a tight fit in making the half blind. I didn’t have to beat it together but it was pretty dang tight. A guy on Woodnet last month posted that after following directions and even making adjustments his were still so tight that they did have to be pounded together. Some suggestions were given including making a second routing pass to give just a little bit of cleanup the first pass missed. Anyway, I’m reading PC4212 posts with interest now. Here is a photo of his overly tight half blinds and a link to the post.
WoodNet Forums: Need some help with the PorterCable 4212 dovetail jig
 

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Ralrick

New User
Rick
Thanks Dan - that link has a lot of good info on the 4212. I'll be attempting my first DT's this weekend . . . . .
 

Nativespec

New User
David
You can try moving the template in or out or raising or lowering the bit to adjust your cuts-that is what the manual suggests. Also, using sacrficial boards seems to be a must (especailly on baltic birch) to avoid tearout. The 4212 was suggested to me for its ease of use and I found that to be true. I just got the mini-template from amazon for about $60 and it came with two bits.
 
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