Turning Acrylic Pens

[kclark]

I am still new to pen turning, but I have turned a few wood pens with great results. I have only turned 3 acrylic pens and I am having the same problem each time. I can't get the pen smooth. Is there a trick with maybe sanding them with a lower grit before progressing thru the the series of sanding "sponges"? Or is it just my poor turning skills showing up.

 

[Canuck]

When I have turned acrylics, I find that it is even more important to turn with a very sharp turning tool(s).

When I get it close to the finished diameter, I start sanding at 150G and then progress through 240G, 320G, 400G and 600G. By now I have it already pretty smooth. I then switch to micromesh....1500G - 12000G. By then I have it pretty slick and shiny and ready for a finish.

The key is to use sharp tools and be try not to be too aggressive with your cuts. (I got carried away with too much pressure on my gouge and ended up getting catches blowing out several blanks on my 1st couple of tries.)

Wayne

 

[rcflyer23]

+1 on Waynes comments. Very Sharp tools are a necessity with Acrylic.

 

[Scott Kuykendall]

After you get the blank roughed out you can use your skew laying flat on it's side on the tool rest and use it as a scraper taking light passes till you get the blank smooth. I can get my blanks smooth enough to just needing wet sanding with Micro Mesh.
Scott
http://www.facebook.com/pages/Scotts-Woodworks/307823195931463

 

[kclark]

I took the blank pictured above back to the lathe and resanded it starting with 150 grit going up thru the micro mesh 12000. That took care of my rough spots. Now if I can just get the pen insert out as I wasn't paying attention and put the threaded pen insert in the top helf of the pen instead of the bottom half. It is always something isn't it.

 

[Canuck]

I took the blank pictured above back to the lathe and resanded it starting with 150 grit going up thru the micro mesh 12000. That took care of my rough spots. Now if I can just get the pen insert out as I wasn't paying attention and put the threaded pen insert in the top helf of the pen instead of the bottom half. It is always something isn't it.

I'm glad that there blank is finally behaving itself!

For disassembly, get yourself a set of transfer punches from Harbor Freight....

http://www.harborfreight.com/28-piece-transfer-punch-set-3577.html

(They have the very same set st WC but at twice the price!)

Just set the appropriate diameter punch from the set into the tube and give the end a quick tap with mallet and the part should just pop out of your tube/blank.

I think we all have had the same experience.

Hang in there and I am sure you will win!

Don't forget the obligatory pic when done.

Wayne

 

[Eric Laudenbacher]

I usually use a skew to "smooth" out the blank before finishing, Then I use wet scotch brite (green,burgundy and white) then I use the wet micro-mesh. I have never used sandpaper on the acrylics. Then I will put a few coats of carnoba wax and buff them out on the lathe.

 

[kclark]

I will get that pen finished after I visit Woodcraft Tuesday morning to pick up a couple of kits. But in the mean time here are 3 pens I turned after I goofed up the pen shown above. I am pretty happy with these 3 pens. Everything went pretty well. I tried the skew and I could get the blank smooth but inevitably I would catch the blank. So, I used the gouge and made very light and I mean light and quick passed and I got them very smooth before micro mesh sanding.


And a closeup

 

[Canuck]

Nothin' wrong with those pens!!!:eusa_danc

Perseverance pays off.

Well done Kevin!

Wayne

 

[Eric Laudenbacher]

Those look good!

 

[aplpickr]

With all turning, wood or acrylic, never go to a higher grit# by more than 50% of the coarser grit #. Always, between each grit change, blow off your hands, the workpiece, and the new paper. A single grain of stray grit can ruin your finish. At the end of each standing step, turn the lathe off and sand lengthwise to remove circular scratches. Put a paste wax on your bushings and mandrel each time that you load up a piece to turn.This keeps you from gluing your work to the mandrel if you use CA for a finish or repair. Sanding takes as long or longer than the turning.

 

[jcz]

Those are some great looking pens. Gotta keep the tools moving. The acrylics will start to melt and leave lines that are hard to get out. I wet sand using 220 up to 1000 grit then a little plastic polish and its good to go.