Shed siding pros & cons

[Jeff]

I'm thinking about building an 8' x 8' storage/utility shed.

Base: PT 2 x 6s on PT 4 x 4 skids for portability (if needed). Flooring: T&G exterior ply screwed to floor joists.
Framing: Conventional, at 16" OC.

Siding: ?. Pros and cons of T1-11, LP Smart Panels (basically, OSB of sorts with an exterior coating), or DuraTemp siding. All seem to have their advantages and disadvantages as far as durability and maintenance regarding water susceptibility and delamination over time.

http://www.affordableportablehousing.com/materials.html

What's the experience out there in your hands? Durability and low maintenance are major concerns that I have. :icon_scra

 

[Phil S]

For ultralow maintenance I would use James Hardie vertical. Comes in 4x8,9,and 10 and you can find it for less than $1 per sqft

 

[Glennbear]

My 24x24 shop was sided with LP panels, I painted it with a good quality exterior paint and it has stood up well for a few years now. I strictly followed the LP installation directions to maintain the warranty and can safely recommend this product. Unlike T-111 the weather resistance is built into the panels. :wsmile:

 

[Bill Clemmons]

I used T-111 on my shed, then painted it w/ a good exterior paint. Seems to be doing okay after 5 years.

Bill

 

[CrealBilly]

Horizontal ERC 3/4" x 7" x ??' - 1" lap. Blunt your nail tips before installing.

 

[tryingtokeepmyfingers]

For ultralow maintenance I would use James Hardie vertical. Comes in 4x8,9,and 10 and you can find it for less than $1 per sqft

I would not used plywood siding again and if I had to do it again I would use this stuff also. The cost is really not much more money and it will not rot

 

[MarkE]

We had a 10 x 12 shed at our last house in New Hampshire. It was there when we bought the place and was still there, in good shape when we sold the place 14 years later. Never had any problems with rot.

That shed had T-111 outside walls and I never touched it for 13 years. When we decided to move, I pressure washed the shed and stained it to match the cedar siding on the house. It looked brand new.

 

[JackLeg]

A BIG +1 for Hardie Plank.:icon_thum You won't regret it! :wsmile:

 

[junquecol]

My vote goes for the LP Smart Siding. The OSB core is zinc/boron treated to resist rot, termites and swelling from moisture. Comes with a FIFTY Year warranty. Hardie Plank only has a THIRTY year warranty. Care to guess why HP reduced the warranty. Hardie Plank absorbs water, and has a much greater coefficient of thermal expansion than Smart Panels. HP is brittle and HEAVY. I have water storage house that was built around 2001 with Smart Panels, I still need to paint it- one day, maybe.

 

[Cato]

I used T-111 on my shed that I built a couple years ago. I primed it well and then put 2 coats of good exterior paint on it. So far no issues whatsoever.

 

[NZAPP1]

I would not used plywood siding again and if I had to do it again I would use this stuff also. The cost is really not much more money and it will not rot

+1 great stuff:thumbs_up

 

[Jeff]

Thanks to all for your input and suggestions. Good food for thought in the planning stages. :icon_cheers

Thanks again.

 

[Herb]

I have two buildings; one out of T-111 and one out of metal. My T-111 is much older and in need of painting. When I get around to painting it, I am going to use ceramic paint. It cost a little more but I should never have to paint it again. As to the metal building, the color is warranted for 25 years--long enough for me at my age.

Herb

 

[Mike Davis]

I built my 16x16 shop in 2005, never got around to painting it. The wood has stained a bit around the bottom but is as solid as the day I nailed it to the studs.

I used to get a product called "Weather-X' primed soffit board. I used it for signs because it had a nice smooth finish and held up well outdoors. I used to get it in 4 x 8 foot size but also saw it in 1 x 12 foot sometimes. Haven't seen it anywhere in many years. Is that still available? I would use that in a heartbeat if I could find it.

 

[Jeff]

Rough dimensions will have to be fine tuned for 4' x 8' exterior sheeting to work without much waste.

Haven't even looked at window sizes yet so those openings are just nominal.

Do I need double headers above or below the window openings? They're about 27.5" wide as shown.

Haven't gotten to the front framing/door part yet, but that'll fall in place.

Critique, suggestions, etc. are welcomed as usual.

 

[Mike Davis]

Why windows? Is this storage or a working area? If working then I would a larger window on the best lighted side or no windows and better lights. If storage then no windows as they will be in the way or blocked by stored goods. On a shed that small two windows are using a huge percentage of wall space.

 

[Dudelive]

Why windows? Is this storage or a working area? If working then I would a larger window on the best lighted side or no windows and better lights. If storage then no windows as they will be in the way or blocked by stored goods. On a shed that small two windows are using a huge percentage of wall space.

+1

If it will have a /\ roof then you could always use the section above the wall for smaller windows.
In a storage shed, windows can be in the way of storage and a way for someone to enter.

 

[petebucy4638]

For ultralow maintenance I would use James Hardie vertical. Comes in X,9,and 10 and you can find it for less than $1 per sq ft

I'll second that! You just about can't beat Jame Hardier siding. It holds paint well, it's fireproof, bug-proof, and rot-proof.

Pete

 

[Jeff]

Good thoughts re: windows. I really don't need them for a primary storage building. Thieves would be doing me a favor to cart off a lot of my "junk" through the door! :gar-La;

Lighting (natural or electrical) is an issue because of the intended location in a moderately wooded area. I'll probably call Piedmont Electric and get some advice from them. I don't need a Lexus, but I don't want an Edsel either. Without windows or skylights this place is gonna be dark thirty!

Roof design is up for grabs. Could be an a-frame or lean-to, but I'm leaning towards an a-frame. :help: Advice is appreciated.

 

[Glennbear]

Why windows? Is this storage or a working area? If working then I would a larger window on the best lighted side or no windows and better lights. If storage then no windows as they will be in the way or blocked by stored goods. On a shed that small two windows are using a huge percentage of wall space.

I agree that in a 64 sq. ft. structure used just for storage windows are not really needed. In that small a space even a battery powered LED light would seem to be sufficient. When I put up my widowless 10x12 metal storage shed I planned to run electric and put in a light but now 4 years later I have not found the need to do so. :wsmile: