My first "shop-made" lathe tool

[scsmith42]

Last night I finished assembling my first shop-made lathe tool. I decided to copy the "EZ Rougher" design, both for the effectiveness of the tool as well as the simplicity of manufacture.

And the best part was, it only cost me $1.60 to build!

I started with a spare carbide insert and screw from my jointer planer. Next, I headed to the steel pile for a 12" piece of 1/2" square bar stock. I cut a notch for the insert, drilled and tapped it for the screw, and then used my belt sander to polish up the rough finish of the bar stock.

Don Patterson (Touchwood) was kind enough to give me an assortment of wood suitable for tool handles, and I selected a nice piece of 8/4 QS Sycamore for the handle.

My only expenditure was $1.60 to Lee Valley for the brass ferrule. I had previously made one from a piece of brass pipe for another project, and figured that for a buck sixty it was worth it to buy one that was pre-made for this project (and I prefer the look of brass over copper).

After drilling the handle with a 1/2" drill, I used torches to heat up the end of the bar stock to burn it into the handle. A little epoxy, and voila, I have a new tool!

Many thanks to Doug R, Doug W, Charlie, Don, Rob, Nate, Gary and others for sharing their wisdom and advice re lathe tools.

Scott

 

[eyekode]

Looks good Scott! How does it compare to a good gouge?
Salem

 

[LeftyTom]

The pic must be photoshopped. Is there anything in Scott's shop that is small enough to use such a tool? My guess is it takes two to hold the tool up to the lathe. :rotflm:

 

[TracyP]

Nicely done. I would gladly double, or maybe even triple your cost for one of those.
when the oak business slows down you may be on to a way to subsidize your income. :icon_thum

 

[scsmith42]

Looks good Scott! How does it compare to a good gouge?
Salem

Thanks Salem. I really don't know re the comparison; the only gouge's that I have are fairly small (think Pen Turning size). One thing that is nice about this is the 3/4" wide flat cutting edge that can cut from either the face or the side; it makes it easy to make smooth passes from side to side.

Why don't you bring a "good gouge" over sometime and we'll compare?

Tracy - I'll, uh... keep your offer in mind should I decide to go into production.... Might be a while for I get around to it though.... :gar-La;

Tom, you're right... it does take two hands to use... only because that how many hands that I use on ANY lathe tool! :gar-La;

 

[CaptnA]

Scott looks like a good tool!
Nice work~
Craig's EZ tools have long intrigued me but at $125 +/- handled, $100+/- no handle, and replacement cutters for $15 +/- that leaves $85 for 12" of 1/2" square stainless steel. Granted one end is notched and tapped but good grief.... No wonder I don't have one!

 

[Charlie]

Scott, Nice looking rougher. Now you need to pick up a round cutter and make another one. I made a tool with a round cutter that is at a 45 degree angle when the square stock is flat on the tool rest. I use it to rough out the inside of my bowls/vases. It is impossible to get a catch. Works very well and will hog off some wood. As I stated before, I do 95% of my turnings with the easy roughers.

 

[drw]

Scott, great work! I haven't worked with sycamore, but it really looks good.

Donn

 

[jcz]

Those carbide tips are well worth the $15 you have to pay EWT. I have 2 round and 1 triangle tipped chisles. I bought the triangle one from another wood turner and made the round ones myself. I hardly ever use gouges now. In fact I turn most of my stuff with the round tipped chisles.
They are easy to make so I see no need to spend the $125 they are asking for a new one.

 

[MrAudio815]

Scott,

That ROCKS~! Way to go. That sure looks professional~!

 

[Splint Eastwood]

very very nice Scott!


M

 

[ScottM]

:icon_thum Nicely done. You need to bring that to the picnic for "show n tell"

 

[Leviblue]

Nice work Scott! I may have to make a trip over the hill to see this new shop addition.

 

[wrwilder]

Very nice work Scott and you can't beat the price and you are going to love how they work.

Thanks to Charlie, I too have started down the slippery slope. Charlie gave me the idea to build my own lathe tools after hooking me up with another friend of his who had a lathe for sale. Here are the tools I made (with Charlie's help) on my "new to me" lathe. Mine weren't quite as economical as yours but for less than $60 for all 5 tools I'm very happy.

View image in gallery​

View image in gallery​

 

[Charlie]

Ray, Those all look great.

 

[Alan in Little Washington]

Very nice. :eusa_clap:eusa_clap:eusa_clap

I'll take a set!

 

[erasmussen]

Homemade tools, are always good.
Yours looks very nice, not like my ugly ones.

 

[zapdafish]

The pic must be photoshopped. Is there anything in Scott's shop that is small enough to use such a tool? My guess is it takes two to hold the tool up to the lathe. :rotflm:

Here is a pic of that coin in the foreground with something to scale. :gar-La;

Great job on that tool. I use that kind and paid almost retail for it :embaresse

 

[eyekode]

Wow Ray, those are great. How do you attach the square shanks in the handles?
Nice stuff!
Salem

 

[wrwilder]

Salem, I used a trick that Charlie showed me on these tools. With the square handle stock setup on the lathe to drill via the tailstock you drill 1/2 inch hole for large tool or 3/8 inch hole for mini tool to the depth that the bar stock is to be inserted into the handle. In my case it was 3 1/2 inches for the large tools and 2 inches for the mini tools plus about 1/2 inch extra for waste to allow putting on the copper ferrel at the end of the process. Then remove the square stock from the lathe and clamp in wood vise. Use a 1/2 inch or 3/8 inch square mortising chisel minus the drill bit to square up the round hole by driving the mortise into the handle with a dead blow hammer. Be careful not to drive the bit in too deep that it can't be easily removed. Now use a wood chisel to remove the wood chiseled by the mortising bit. You can use the 1/2 inch or 3/8 drill bits to clear the wood as well.

Once the hole is squared to the depth that you need then replace the handle in the lathe and turn to the desired shape. You will have to use something like a cone shaped tailstock in the square hole in the handle to be able to return it to the lathe.

I went to a place here in Raleigh called Fastenal to get the 1/2 inch and 3/8 inch steel bar stock. I purchased the appropriate EWT carbide cutters for each of the tools. It includes the screws. The large tool screws are 6-32 and the minis are 4-40 so you will need the appropriate drill bits and taps to thread the holes in the bar stock to hold the carbide cutters. I made sure the bars were drilled, tapped and fitted for the cutters before I epoxied the bars in the handles.

Hope this helps and maybe I haven't completely confused you. If I have you are welcome to contact me and I'll show you how I did it. I live close to Apex off Penny Road.