finishing bad plywood

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Curtis

New User
Curtis
I just built new bathroom cabinets using oak face frames and oak plywood for the box. When testing wipe-on stains for color, I noticed the plywood isn't taking the stain evenly, even when using a sealer before the stain. (yes I bought chinese plywood from Lowe's - i've learned my lesson) It's like the veneer is so thin, the glue has penetrated it in the most pourus part of the wood. It looks awful, giving the appearance of water damage after the stain was applied? Any suggestions on how I can get a nice finish on these cabinets? Or am I resigned to finishing them natural? I tested a piece with just a clear finish and it looks fine.
 

Mike Davis

Mike
Corporate Member
You might try a water base spray on dye. I have never used it but I hear it works wonders in this kind of problem.
 

nelsone

New User
Ed
Dyes work great! I had the problem with a library unit I built a few years ago between the hardwood and plywood. Tried some Transtint and it came out great. The dye will look bad until you put a top coat on it (poly or lacquer), but then it really comes out nicely.
 

Dragon

New User
David
What everyone has said +1. You've learned your main lesson.....don't buy cheap, Chinese plywood. I buy very little from Lowe's anymore when it comes to wood because I can't be sure where it came from.
 

Howard Acheson

New User
Howard
Try sealing the surface with a coat of 2# cut dewaxed shellac. Zinsser SealCoat will work. Then use a gel stain. The shellac will seal the wood and the gel stain will stay on top of the shellac so you should not have uneven coloring. Plus, you can wipe off the stain with mineral spirits before it dries if you do not like how its going.

Be sure to test your complete finishing schedule on scrap from your project to learn how to do it and to see how it looks. No tears.

The plywood you bought is not intended to be stained and/or clear coated. It's a paint grade product.
 

Don Alexander

New User
Don
and you would buy oak veneer plywood and paint it? why? :eek: color me crazy but i thought that the whole point of hardwood veneered plywood was to see the wood not cover it up with paint

learn something new everyday i guess :gar-Bi
 

Curtis

New User
Curtis
thanks for the suggestions. I put a coat of clear poly on it, then used the combo stain / poly from minwax and it tinted it nicely without all the splotching. Worked out fine. Next time I'll just build raised panel sides instead of using plywood!
 

ErnieM

Ernie
Corporate Member
and you would buy oak veneer plywood and paint it? why? :eek: color me crazy but i thought that the whole point of hardwood veneered plywood was to see the wood not cover it up with paint

learn something new everyday i guess :gar-Bi
Why? It's simple - to get a better grade of plywood. I usually make my instrument lids out of plywood but the only 1/2" plywood I can get within 100 miles of here is at the Borg. I would gladly pay for cabinet grade birch plywood even though the lids are painted. The "hardwood plywood" they sell at the Borg isn't even suitable for painting IMHO. I got so fed up with the stuff that I've started making lids out of planks - more work but a better result. If I could get cabinet grade birch plywood here, I would certainly use it - paint or no paint.

Ernie
 

Travis Porter

Travis
Corporate Member
I thought HD was going to start selling some US made plywood that was supposed to be a better grade. Anyone seen it?
 

Canuck

Wayne
Corporate Member
Travis,

I managed to get 2 sheets about six weeks ago.

Last time into the Apex HD, I picked up one sheet (birch ply). Same company(Columbia Forest Products), BUT it was down to 5/8" thick and no MDF core as before!:BangHead::BangHead: (It also went up to $48/sheet!:elvis:)

If they are not carrying anymore, it was sure a quick run of decent plywood!:gar-Cr

Hoping it returns!

Wayne
 
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