Faceframe for red oak plywood chest of drawers

[zinfella]

Here is the progress thus far. I purchased 1" pocket screws but didn't get good results. I guess the 3/4 inch stock is too small for a good hold. I decided to glue the frames in place and attach with small brads. I will cover the brads as I go further. The results were very good. It sits in the corner now waiting for drawers and a top. Thanks to all for the suggestions.

I dunno which screws you used, but there are at least 3 different one's for 3/4 material. 1 1/4" fine, 1 1/4" coarse, and 1 1/4" pan head for plywood.

 

[lwhughes149]

Mike, I stand corrected, what I meant was 1" width, 3/4" thickness.

 

[lwhughes149]

Carl, being new to pocketscrews, I picked up the one inch size and didn't pay any attention to detail, and got the ones that were for soft material instead of hard. That could have been my problem. But the frames are now on but I am sure there will be more uses for the pocketscrew jig. I used it for my faceframes on my cherry kitchen cabinets. Worked great.

 

[McRabbet]

Lorraine,

The booklet that came with your Kreg Jig should give you basic information on which size screw to use with various wood thicknesses. If you are attaching 3/4" thick stock to 3/4" stock, then they recommend a 1-1/4" screw. Equally important is setting the drill stop depth -- My K3 Jig has a molded guide for setting the drill bit stop at the right position (e.g., it is 3-9/16" for 3/4" stock). Different material types also require different screw threads for optimal holding power -- coarse thread for softwoods and plywood; fine thread for hardwoods; or Hi-Lo thread for intermediate hardness woods like Poplar. I buy my screws from Custom Service Hardware (Custom Service Hardware: Wholesale Hardware to Anyone Who Makes Sawdust. Call us at 1-800-882-0009) in 1,000 quantity and personally, I prefer the Pan Head versus the Washer Head screws that Kreg sells.

Hope this helps. Rob

 

[jmauldin]

Why not take some of the walnut you used for the base, cut some 1/4' strips and use them to cover the ends of the plywood? That would leave 1/2'" relief. You can glue the strips on, and pin nail if necessary. I would go that route rather that iron-on edging or 3/4" strips that would make it flush.
Jim in Mayberry

 

[lwhughes149]

Thanks Rob, that does help. I have the same instructions.