Faceframe for red oak plywood chest of drawers

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lwhughes149

New User
Lorraine
I have put my kitchen remodel on hold to take a break. I have a red oak chest of drawers that I started with my brother several years ago that I would like to finish. It is a Norm Abram pattern, I have lost the plans and can't find them on his site. The sides and rails are all plywood. The legs are 3/4" oak with dovetail jointery. I have used 1" cleats 5/8" from the top of the legs in which to attach the legs to the case. I had thought to use 3/4" faceframes to cover the raw front but have concern as to whether it would be the best choice. I had also thought about iron on strips of oak. Appreciate thoughts on this matter. I prefer something solid if possible. :BangHead: Lorraine
 

zinfella

New User
Carl Stone
It's pretty hard to offer much without seeing the chest, but, I've used red oak to cover ply edges, and it worked just fine. Did you try inquiring with NYW over your old plans to see if they can be replaced?
 

lwhughes149

New User
Lorraine
Here is the situation. I chose the legs, made them and then realized that they were made for a solid wood chest. The legs are 3/4' so if I put 3/4" faceframe on the front the legs will be flush with the front. My question is would that look right or is there a better choice? I could do the faceframe and add a piece of molding between the faceframe and the leg. That would probably look good. Just up for suggestions as to how someone else would go about finishing this chest. Pic attached. Lorraine
 

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zinfella

New User
Carl Stone
I can't tell from the pics how much reveal you have on the sides of the bottom. Is it equal to the front reveal? Are you planning to cover any or all of that with molding? Does the front of the bottom drawer have overlay on it's bottom, and if so, will that overlay leave room for the molding?
 

lwhughes149

New User
Lorraine
If I use 3/4" ff then the entire cabinet will be flush, including the legs. The legs come out 3/4" as will the ff. The molding will be there just to decorate. I don't know if I could use 1/2" for face frame or not. This would let the legs sit out 1/4" over the cabinet. What do you think?
 

zinfella

New User
Carl Stone
So the molding on the bottom will not overlay the reveal? I'm having trouble seeing how there's room for an overlay molding on the chest bottom and a face frame, plus any overlay from the bottom drawer. 'Course it could be 'cause I'm not exactly a rocket scientist. :lol:
 

lwhughes149

New User
Lorraine
Look at the picture on the right. Understand the picture is upside down. You are seeing the reveal for the legs. If you put a 3/4" board up under that leg you will be flush with the leg. So if I made a complete faceframe and attach it to the cabinet front I will have the entire cabinet, the faceframe and the legs flush with each other. I am use to having the legs sit out from the cabinet so I am not sure how this will look once it is finished.
 

zinfella

New User
Carl Stone
If you do that, then what about the reveal on the sides of the bottom? It doesn't appear that they will match the front of the bottom. ??
 

zinfella

New User
Carl Stone
Not off the top of my head, but perhaps one of the more talented members here will have a suggestion that works for you.
 

lwhughes149

New User
Lorraine
Welcome to the site Carl. Glad to have you here. I just had a thought. I could make a false fame on the side like the ones I used in the kitchen on the end of a cabinet. That would make the legs flush as they are on the front. Just a thought.
 

Travis Porter

Travis
Corporate Member
How are you going to do your drawers? Inset or overlay? If overlay, how much of the front is going to stick forward?

I am not a proponent of the iron on stuff. Have some, does ok, but doesn't really hold up well. You could make some say 1/4 or 1/8 strips and glue them on, that way you still have the base setting out from the actual cabinet.
 

lwhughes149

New User
Lorraine
Travis, I don't want to use iron on's especially when you say they do not hold up well. If I make strips and glue them on what is to say they will stay either? Who says I have to have the legs sit out? Why can't I add my 3/4" faceframes and make a decorative panel on the sides? I could use inset drawers and add the decorative panel to them? Or I could just have the decorative panel on the side and make the drawers with an lip. Please discuss the strips you were talking about. I can't see the application yet.

Lorraine
 

Travis Porter

Travis
Corporate Member
IMO, face frames do not look good or right on furniture. They are for cabinets. I define face frames as wider than the thickness of the board they are being attached. So, if you have 3/4" plywood sides, I would say 1" would be a faceframe, although 1" I think that would probably be OK.

As for strips, you could rip some 1/4" or 1/8" strips 3/4 wide and glue them to the front edges of the plywood. For that matter, you could rip them 3/4" and they would come out flush to your base, personal preference and whatever you want to design works. Basically, you are making your own strips, but a bit thicker and attaching with yellow glue and clamps. Once you get them on, you can use a sharp block plane, a sander (have to be careful not to sand through the veneer on the plywood DAMHIKT), or I have seen a jig with a router and flush trim bit made to even it up. I am not sure if your carcass is already glued together or not, but if it is, it makes a little more difficult, but not unrealistic to do. If it isn't glued up, it is a simpler matter to glue on the strips, rig up a router in a table with a high fence and flush trim bit, and even them up.

As for attaching the strips, yellow glue holds a lot better than the iron on strips. I have used the iron on strips for shelves in kitchen cabs, and they are ok. I have had to go back an reheat them, the edges can be a bit frail, just not something I wuld recommend.

No, the base/legs do not have to sit out. have seen it multiple ways. Sometimes it is nice to have some offset for a transition, again, personal preference.

As for the decorative panel on the side, absolutely. Be careful if it is solid wood though as you cannot glue a large panel of solid wood to plywood. Plywood shrinks and expands very little to humidity compared to solid wood.

Regardless, you have alternatives, some easier than others. It is all a matter of personal preference.
 

FredP

Fred
Corporate Member
you could make a face frame for the front and both sides. cut a strip maybe 1/4" x 1" and run it around the three sides to separate the base from the rest. the two front corners would then wrap around the sides and make all the real wood come in line and some detail would be added. the sides would then look like panels. make the top overlap equaly around three sides of the dresser.:-D

fred
 

lwhughes149

New User
Lorraine
I like the idea of the panels on the sides but my sides are plywood and wood movement has to be a consideration. My walnut secretary has taught me to think before I act.
 

FredP

Fred
Corporate Member
I like the idea of the panels on the sides but my sides are plywood and wood movement has to be a consideration. My walnut secretary has taught me to think before I act.


if you make the frames for the sides and attach them from the inside using slots for the screws instead of just holes movement should not be a problem.

fred
 

ToeNailer

New User
Jim
You can work the movement into the side panels for sure, and I think that was a good idea to start.
I'd keep them at the 3/4 width and add a small applied molding to seperate and build out the base. I think it will look more like a chest on a base, but it will work and look great.
 

lwhughes149

New User
Lorraine
Here is the progress thus far. I purchased 1" pocket screws but didn't get good results. I guess the 3/4 inch stock is too small for a good hold. I decided to glue the frames in place and attach with small brads. I will cover the brads as I go further. The results were very good. It sits in the corner now waiting for drawers and a top. Thanks to all for the suggestions.
 

MikeH

New User
Mike
Here is the progress thus far. I purchased 1" pocket screws but didn't get good results. I guess the 3/4 inch stock is too small for a good hold. I decided to glue the frames in place and attach with small brads. I will cover the brads as I go further. The results were very good. It sits in the corner now waiting for drawers and a top. Thanks to all for the suggestions.

Just an fyi....1 1/4" are recommended for 3/4" stock.
 
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