I have a 20 yr. old 14" BS that I've customized with 10" of phenolic riser block. This allows a 16" resaw capability, which I use fairly often. A carbide-tipped 1/2" blade helps in resawing, too.
Do you really use 12" resaw?
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I have the same Grizz as Mac. 3/4 HP, with riser block. The right blade can definitely help. Whatever you decide to get, be sure and get a nice woodslicer (or something comparable). DaveO probably made the most important point in the entire discussion. I wouldn't resaw more than I can joint. For me, I have a 6" jointer, so that's about all I would resaw. Plus, if I put a twelve inch board on the table of my little Grizz, it would probably laugh at me. :rotflm: Bigger and badder is better. :qleft7:
Good luck and definitely post a gloat once you get it! :tool:
Trent
Good luck and definitely post a gloat once you get it! :tool:
Trent
I believe jointer size would play a part when cutting thicker stock down to 1/4 and bigger; however I would be reluctant to run veneer stock through my jointer i would probably use my planer and a sled for veneer stock, which is 12.5 inches.
Of course i say that and i just thought that just this weekend i did just that with 7/32 poplar that i was milling down to an 1/8th. I used double sided tape and a 2x6 cut to length.
I am just extra cautious on equipment that took my grand pa's digits. So the jointer and the RAS i am real careful.:saw:
Of course i say that and i just thought that just this weekend i did just that with 7/32 poplar that i was milling down to an 1/8th. I used double sided tape and a 2x6 cut to length.
I am just extra cautious on equipment that took my grand pa's digits. So the jointer and the RAS i am real careful.:saw:
Guys, thanks again for all of the responses. I am amazed at all of the great information. I am a member of some other forums (music) and most aren't as helpful.
B
B
I also have the Rikon 10-325 . I frequently saw 12" to make panels for scrolling. I run mine through a planer. I have yet to find something it would not cut. I have bogged it down a couple of times but that was just me being in a hurry :BangHead:
All in all I am very happy with it
All in all I am very happy with it
Another "me, too" - got 12" because I needed 8" to resaw spruce soundboards. My saw would require very slow feeding of anything more than that.
Without being able to joint the board (of course there are other was other than a powered jointer) how are you going to get a truly flat face to reference off your planer bed. When I cut veneer or thin stock. I first joint the face that will on the fence and edge on the table. Take a slice, then joint the fence face again. That gives me a flat surface to either drum sand of plane. What Jeff... said earlier is pretty valid. If you're going for a true book match and are just splitting one board in half. You would want to surface both side. He mentioned jointing both sides. That might result in an uneven thickness. I would joint one face and then run it through the planer to get the other face smooth and parallel. Then split your board and use the flat faces to reference off the planer or drum-sander bed to true up the other faces.
MTCW,
Dave
Without being able to joint the board (of course there are other was other than a powered jointer) how are you going to get a truly flat face to reference off your planer bed. When I cut veneer or thin stock. I first joint the face that will on the fence and edge on the table. Take a slice, then joint the fence face again. That gives me a flat surface to either drum sand of plane. What Jeff... said earlier is pretty valid. If you're going for a true book match and are just splitting one board in half. You would want to surface both side. He mentioned jointing both sides. That might result in an uneven thickness. I would joint one face and then run it through the planer to get the other face smooth and parallel. Then split your board and use the flat faces to reference off the planer or drum-sander bed to true up the other faces.
MTCW,
Dave
I guess i didn't type my post the way i was thinking it.... I use the planer with a sled to joint the veneer. The bottom of the sled is flat and that is what it is jointed face is reference to, so flat bottom = flat face. Then the stock is removed from the sled and the flat side down, and that trues the other face.
But the time i've done it, i've started with thin stock and just half it so. The boards were jointed and planed to begin with and the surfaced face was used as the reference face on the sled so guess i could have done with out the sled.
No you stated it well, I just didn't read it well enough. You're right a planer sled will take the need to joint the face flat out of the picture. But it is a lot more work to get to the same results. I guess if you have a very wide special board that you want to cut veneer from it would be worth it.
Dave
On my 16 inch BS I resaw drawer stock and occasionally bookmatch panel stock in the 6 - 9 inch width more often than extra wide stock.
A larger BS usually means a stronger frame and higher tensions for resawing. A larger BS will usually have a larger table which provides a stable work platform and more surface for stock registration on both rip/resaw and curve cutting.
I keep a 3/8 or 1/2 blade on my saw most of the time and it handles most work just fine. I often wish I had a 14 inch BS for curve work.
Chuck
A larger BS usually means a stronger frame and higher tensions for resawing. A larger BS will usually have a larger table which provides a stable work platform and more surface for stock registration on both rip/resaw and curve cutting.
I keep a 3/8 or 1/2 blade on my saw most of the time and it handles most work just fine. I often wish I had a 14 inch BS for curve work.
Chuck
I don't resaw a lot of 12" stuff, but it is nice to know you can. I went from a Delta 14" BS to a Laguna 18" machine. Big jump in size, capacity and power, plus a cool-looking machine. And the 3 horse motor really makes a big difference. If your wallet can handle the shock, I say get the machine with more capacity and smile each time you walk into the shop.
Just my 2 pennies worth of opinion.
Just my 2 pennies worth of opinion.
Bryan,
I think you ought to go to Harbor Freight near the hospital off I-185 in Greeenville, SC ( other side of the road) in the shopping center there and have a look. Kick the tires, so to speak. If you are in NC, I'm told Cary has a shop there.
I bought a 4 speed bandsaw from HF and a riser block from Grizzly and have never looked back. A lot of HF and Grizzly and Jet, etc bandsaws are all made in the same Taiwan shop to the same design, just a different coat of paint and a (much) higher price. Proof of my comment is that the Grizzly riser block fit perfectly on my HF bandaw. I think HF is now selling the riser block. If you buy the saw at the store, no freight. Grizzly does carry inventory which will give you quick access to the odd part if needed.
Most of the problems with these configurations mentioned by others is likely the saw blade and blade speed and not the saw. Get a carbide tipped blade and with a thin kerf and rounded back. Woodslicer from Highland Hardware is 0.022", but good for kiln dried (or at least dry) only, as I recall. Supercut Premium Gold blades with carbide tips, rounded backs and polished blades work just great. Don't mess around with cheaper blades. It is a waste of time and money. HF distributes these, but they are made in the US and well priced. Also see the "blade selection" write-up on the Supercut site. Very helpful. I buy mine directly from them now to get a wider selection. Timberwolf with a wider set and kerf is good for wet/green wood.
Being able to select a blade speed is also an important asset when resawing. So choose your saw purchase accordingly. Divide the cut thickness into 6000 to 8000 to get your blade speed range for this particular cut. So, the thicker the cut, the slower the blade speed. 4 speeds is a real asset as is a belt drive, since you get more effective horsepower, the wider the cut , (versus the speed controller).
Good luck,
Dave Burley
I think you ought to go to Harbor Freight near the hospital off I-185 in Greeenville, SC ( other side of the road) in the shopping center there and have a look. Kick the tires, so to speak. If you are in NC, I'm told Cary has a shop there.
I bought a 4 speed bandsaw from HF and a riser block from Grizzly and have never looked back. A lot of HF and Grizzly and Jet, etc bandsaws are all made in the same Taiwan shop to the same design, just a different coat of paint and a (much) higher price. Proof of my comment is that the Grizzly riser block fit perfectly on my HF bandaw. I think HF is now selling the riser block. If you buy the saw at the store, no freight. Grizzly does carry inventory which will give you quick access to the odd part if needed.
Most of the problems with these configurations mentioned by others is likely the saw blade and blade speed and not the saw. Get a carbide tipped blade and with a thin kerf and rounded back. Woodslicer from Highland Hardware is 0.022", but good for kiln dried (or at least dry) only, as I recall. Supercut Premium Gold blades with carbide tips, rounded backs and polished blades work just great. Don't mess around with cheaper blades. It is a waste of time and money. HF distributes these, but they are made in the US and well priced. Also see the "blade selection" write-up on the Supercut site. Very helpful. I buy mine directly from them now to get a wider selection. Timberwolf with a wider set and kerf is good for wet/green wood.
Being able to select a blade speed is also an important asset when resawing. So choose your saw purchase accordingly. Divide the cut thickness into 6000 to 8000 to get your blade speed range for this particular cut. So, the thicker the cut, the slower the blade speed. 4 speeds is a real asset as is a belt drive, since you get more effective horsepower, the wider the cut , (versus the speed controller).
Good luck,
Dave Burley
I'm a Bandsaw connoisseur. I've owned bansaws from 10" to 36" and everything in between. This is just a list of what I've owned, not what I've used.
10" Ryobi
14" Rikon
14" Grizzly
16" Minimax
24" Meber
36" Moak
The throat on the saw is more important than resaw capacity once you get to a certain capacity. I think as long as you have 10" of resaw you are going to be good. The thing you want to think about is the throat and table. Everytime I'm in my shop bandsawing I miss my 36" bandsaw... Not because the resaw height, but because of the table size and the throat. I think a good all purpose saw is a 17". The one Jeremy suggests is a good one to get and a good buy. You have enough throat for just about any operation you will be doing, enough resaw for a normal guy, and enough HP to resaw when you need to.
Good Luck,
John
10" Ryobi
14" Rikon
14" Grizzly
16" Minimax
24" Meber
36" Moak
The throat on the saw is more important than resaw capacity once you get to a certain capacity. I think as long as you have 10" of resaw you are going to be good. The thing you want to think about is the throat and table. Everytime I'm in my shop bandsawing I miss my 36" bandsaw... Not because the resaw height, but because of the table size and the throat. I think a good all purpose saw is a 17". The one Jeremy suggests is a good one to get and a good buy. You have enough throat for just about any operation you will be doing, enough resaw for a normal guy, and enough HP to resaw when you need to.
Good Luck,
John
John,
Thanks for sharing your experience.
A wider throat is useful if you use the bandsaw for scrolling. I use my 18" scrollsaw for which I built a large table for that. A bigger table can be built for the bandsaw, but I have never built one. It is useful to have a longer table and supported by legs to the floor to bear the weight, if cutting up logs. Plenty of designs on the woodworking sites. Also on really wide pieces, I use a hand held motor driven saw of some type to do the cutting. If I have a really big log I use my chain saw with an attachment which slides along a 2X4 to give even thickness. These are 8/4 or 4/4 and stickered to dry before bandsawing to the appropriate thickness.
Dave Burley
Dave, you are right, building a table improve the the use of a bandsaw dramatically. My outfeed table for my table saw is the right height for my bandsaws as well so I will wheel the table around for long cuts on the bandsaw, but tables don't fix the throat limitations. You can get around it by cutting on the outside of the blade, but when you are cutting out peices traced from a template you simply can't flip the peice over and problems can occur. I typically run into limitions cutting back legs and the rocker buildups on my sculptural rockers. All the stock is 8/4 so the bandsa is the necessary tool over the scroll saw. I have scrolled parts on my Hawk, but boy is that slow going.
I guess the key question you have to ask yourself in picking a bandsaw is, "What am I going to use my Bansaw for?"
Good Luck,
John
I guess the key question you have to ask yourself in picking a bandsaw is, "What am I going to use my Bansaw for?"
Good Luck,
John
Thanks again guys for all of the comments. Hopefully I will be picking up a band saw at the end of the month. I will post a gloat as soon as I do.
One other consideration, that I hesitate to confess to but I am sure I am not the only one...
With care to make sure there is nothing but wood in the path of the blade, you can cut things that are already assembled. I used it on a "squirrel house" one of my boys wanted to build to get the bottom and front squared off better (yeah, it was cute, but my wife thought it had a little too much "character" to hang in the yard).
With care to make sure there is nothing but wood in the path of the blade, you can cut things that are already assembled. I used it on a "squirrel house" one of my boys wanted to build to get the bottom and front squared off better (yeah, it was cute, but my wife thought it had a little too much "character" to hang in the yard).
Andy,
Good to hear from you. Hope the camp went well with your daughter.
I have one of those objects with a lot of character screwed to my hickory tree out back. This object was created by my wife's girlfriend to provide bird housing. Beautiful wood from the Florida swamps ( her son is a tree surgeon) which I would like to recycle in a dignified way, but too many "union" marks and I would never get away with it. {8^)
Properly done, with the correct blades, other things besides wood can be cut with the bandsaw, including the softer metals. I tend to stick to my scroll saw where possible using abrasive blades.
Dave Burley
Good to hear from you. Hope the camp went well with your daughter.
I have one of those objects with a lot of character screwed to my hickory tree out back. This object was created by my wife's girlfriend to provide bird housing. Beautiful wood from the Florida swamps ( her son is a tree surgeon) which I would like to recycle in a dignified way, but too many "union" marks and I would never get away with it. {8^)
Properly done, with the correct blades, other things besides wood can be cut with the bandsaw, including the softer metals. I tend to stick to my scroll saw where possible using abrasive blades.
Dave Burley
Yeah, camp was good, but I always enjoy that; even in the mud with the boys in September it was fun.
The funny thing about the squirrel house is that when it was nice and squared up when we went to hang it (after the glue had dried for a couple of days, the second of which was my opportunity to adjust it) he did not notice. It was just like he remembered doing it.
The funny thing about the squirrel house is that when it was nice and squared up when we went to hang it (after the glue had dried for a couple of days, the second of which was my opportunity to adjust it) he did not notice. It was just like he remembered doing it.
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