Cyclone to Duct Connection Advice Needed

Status
Not open for further replies.

WoodWrangler

Jeremy
Senior User
This was the connection in reference. Nordfab actually will make a custom end for it, however I didn't want to wait. I picked up an 8" to 8" duct connector at the BORG. A little fine tuning, a few screws and some tape ... and viola! A few pics to show how it was done.

Thank you everyone for the information, feedback, and opinions.

P1030058.JPG

View image in gallery


 

Travis Porter

Travis
Corporate Member
You are going to have two problems with that set up.

Drum is TOO small, and forgetting to check to see if the drum is full!

DAMHIKT.:rolleyes:
 

WoodWrangler

Jeremy
Senior User
You are going to have two problems with that set up.

Drum is TOO small, and forgetting to check to see if the drum is full!

DAMHIKT.:rolleyes:

:gar-La; Yeah, we were talking about while we installed. Though this one does have a 55 gallon drum. you still can't see thru metal! I was thinking about getting a setup like so many others have posted out here (Alan in Little Washington comes to mind) with a sensor to alert when it gets full.
 

Alan in Little Washington

Alan Schaffter
Corporate Member
:gar-La; Yeah, we were talking about while we installed. Though this one does have a 55 gallon drum. you still can't see thru metal! I was thinking about getting a setup like so many others have posted out here (Alan in Little Washington comes to mind) with a sensor to alert when it gets full.

Nice job, I still think a tire tube would have worked just as well. :wwink: One thing that is often overlooked on cyclone installations. Cyclones work best when the air flow is as close to laminar as possible. That translates to a straight inlet for . . . . . something like one or two cyclone diameters length (I forget!!! check Bill Pentz's site) leading into the cyclone. However, that being said, you got do what fits.

As many can attest, my high dust alarm works. American Woodworker Magazine has one in their shop. They didn't have space for the short mounting duct I provided so had trouble getting enough illumination from the light source on the sensor - through 9" diam discolored flex. They had to use a brighter light bulb, but are concerned about heat melting the flex. The big box stores are starting to carry 110V LED lights with standard and candelabra bases in equivalent intensities that should work. I plan to try one soon.
 

WoodWrangler

Jeremy
Senior User
Cyclones work best when the air flow is as close to laminar as possible. That translates to a straight inlet for . . . . . something like one or two cyclone diameters length (I forget!!! check Bill Pentz's site) leading into the cyclone. However, that being said, you got do what fits.

Yeah, the design of the duct isn't to Pentz blessing, but we did our best to abide by the laws of the land. I wanted the drops in certain spots ... so like you said, you gotta do what fits. There is no problem with suction ... that's for sure. About pulled the paint off my saw when I started it up with one port open!:gar-La;
 

ehpoole

Moderator
Ethan
:gar-La; Yeah, we were talking about while we installed. Though this one does have a 55 gallon drum. you still can't see thru metal! I was thinking about getting a setup like so many others have posted out here (Alan in Little Washington comes to mind) with a sensor to alert when it gets full.

An alternative to a remote sensor is to simply cut some windows into the drum.

My JDS cyclone came with a drum I didn't care for, so I modified it to use 32gal trash cans, I have two pairs of windows, one pair a couple inches below the rim (the FULL indicator) and another a bit lower down (roughly 3/4 full). You could probably get by with single windows rather than pairs, but mine is at floor level and window pairs means that I can shine a flashlight in to check on levels well below the windows. When the level reaches one of the windows you can plainly see the sawdust through the window from some distance (no flashlight needed, just ambient shop light).

Each window is ~1/16" polycarbonate (lexan) about 5"x7" (cut drum openings about 2" smaller than lexan, i.e. 3"x5"), sealed with silicon, and riveted in place. For a better fit, you can use a torch to heat the lexan (wear heavy gloves!) and give it a curve to match the drum. I'd post photos, but I'm 600 miles from my shop this week.
 

WoodWrangler

Jeremy
Senior User
Ethan ... I like it. My other system has a convenient "window" on the bag which saved me many times. I'd like to see some pics of what you did with yours.
 

ehpoole

Moderator
Ethan
Re: Cyclone to Duct Connection Advice Needed - PICS

As requested, photos of the windowed dust bin:

091130_DustBin_01.JPG

091130_DustBin_02.JPG

091130_DustBin_03.JPG

091130_DustBin_04.JPG

091130_DustCollector.JPG
 

Glennbear

Moderator
Glenn
I am glad you found a solution, I probably would have taken the same route including the metal tape as opposed to the grey stuff.:no: I think Alan's idea for inner tube section connectors is good also and I have noted it for future use. :wsmile:
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Premier Sponsor

Our Sponsors

LATEST FOR SALE LISTINGS

Top