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needed to cut full sheet 3/4" plywood. Had two B&D workmates. Put plywood on the two Workmates. Lined up the gap in the vise portion of the Workmates with the line of cut on the plywood. Started cutting, noticed black stuff coming up through the kerf. On investigation found out I had cut throught the black coated aluminum structure of both Workmates.
Now you guys are reminding me to check depth of cut. Big help, but too late.
p.s. carbide blades do a neat job cutting aluminum.
James
Now you guys are reminding me to check depth of cut. Big help, but too late.
p.s. carbide blades do a neat job cutting aluminum.
James
When you cut through the top of the bed rails on a Chevy S-10 pickup, it is even more fun. Didn't do it myself, but had a fellow employee do it once- only once. I use a "break down table." It's a couple of 1 X 4 rails (actually 3/4 X 3 1/2" plywood) connected with a 2 X 4's on the flat side. Screws through the rails into ends of 2 X 4's are 1" below top of rails. I use a home made plywood cutting guide. Table is 36" wide and an a little less than 84" long (fits into my trailer flat.) Supported by a set of folding banquet table legs. I'm on my fourth top and second set of rails. Cut right into the top.
I refuse to respond to this thread, on the grounds that it may incriminate me! :rotflm:
Fess up folks! It's good to cleanse the soul. :gar-La;
I, for one, have done many rosary beads as penance for my woodworking sins!
I have used insulation myself but as BigDog points out when the insulation is inside the walls of a cooler it has the added advantage of bringing things to a more comfortable working height. :rotflm:
My shop is too small to run full sheets of plywood through my table saw, so I always break them down to manageable size outside the shop. I built a table frame about the size of one of those banquet tables and bought a set of banquet table style legs from Harbor Freight. The only metal in the table is the legs and the screws that attach them. The frame sides and ends are 2X4 on edge with only the necessary cross pieces needed to attach the legs are all 2X4s laying down and attached level with the top of the edge frame using biscuits and glue. The rest of the table top is completely open.
I can lay a full sheet of plywood on this table and use a straight edge and my circular saw (set to cut through the plywood plus about 1/4" into the table) to make all of the needed cuts. The great part is that none of the plywood pieces fall as you complete a cut, so there's no broken corners, just clean straight cuts. When the cut is complete I set the saw aside and pick up the piece that I want, or move them around, line up the straight edge and make another cut. The table works great for framing lumber too. If/when the top of the table frame gets too cut up I'll just make another and move the legs over to it, with one exception. I've decided that 2X4s are not needed for the outside edge frame. The next time I'll use 1X4 for the edge frame and keep the 2X4s for the cross pieces to hold the legs. It'll be lighter and easier for this old man to move around.
I recently added some cleats to one side with one screw in each. I can turn them so they stick up above the table by about an inch or turn them so they are down below the table surface. I can now load a full sheet very easily. I tip the table on it's side with these cleats turned up but laying on the ground. I carry the plywood over to the table on edge and set it against the table top and on these cleats. Now I reach down and pick up both the plywood and the table frame at the same time, tipping the table upright with the plywood laying on top of it. I no longer need help to do this.
When folded, the legs fit up inside the frame and the whole table fits in my lumber storage rack, completely out of the way.
I've helped 2 friends with house remodeling work and brought this table with me. They laughed at first, saying saw horses were the way real carpenters worked, but they tried it out and then used it the rest of the day. Now both have made their own cutting tables and their saw horses sit unused in the corner of their garages. The table frame makes a great expansion table for picnics too. Just get it out and throw a sheet of plywood and a table cloth on it.
Charley
I can lay a full sheet of plywood on this table and use a straight edge and my circular saw (set to cut through the plywood plus about 1/4" into the table) to make all of the needed cuts. The great part is that none of the plywood pieces fall as you complete a cut, so there's no broken corners, just clean straight cuts. When the cut is complete I set the saw aside and pick up the piece that I want, or move them around, line up the straight edge and make another cut. The table works great for framing lumber too. If/when the top of the table frame gets too cut up I'll just make another and move the legs over to it, with one exception. I've decided that 2X4s are not needed for the outside edge frame. The next time I'll use 1X4 for the edge frame and keep the 2X4s for the cross pieces to hold the legs. It'll be lighter and easier for this old man to move around.
I recently added some cleats to one side with one screw in each. I can turn them so they stick up above the table by about an inch or turn them so they are down below the table surface. I can now load a full sheet very easily. I tip the table on it's side with these cleats turned up but laying on the ground. I carry the plywood over to the table on edge and set it against the table top and on these cleats. Now I reach down and pick up both the plywood and the table frame at the same time, tipping the table upright with the plywood laying on top of it. I no longer need help to do this.
When folded, the legs fit up inside the frame and the whole table fits in my lumber storage rack, completely out of the way.
I've helped 2 friends with house remodeling work and brought this table with me. They laughed at first, saying saw horses were the way real carpenters worked, but they tried it out and then used it the rest of the day. Now both have made their own cutting tables and their saw horses sit unused in the corner of their garages. The table frame makes a great expansion table for picnics too. Just get it out and throw a sheet of plywood and a table cloth on it.
Charley
Charley!.....................where's the pix?
Ok, If it isn't raining tomorrow I'll get it out and take some pics of it. Already too dark for this tonight.
It isn't much to look at though. Just a banquet table with no top surface, just a frame where the top would be. There's a full sheet of cabinet birch in the trailer too, so I should be able to set up some demonstration shots. I'm not cutting that sheet though. It's spoken for.
Charley
It isn't much to look at though. Just a banquet table with no top surface, just a frame where the top would be. There's a full sheet of cabinet birch in the trailer too, so I should be able to set up some demonstration shots. I'm not cutting that sheet though. It's spoken for.
Charley
Wish it would have been that easy Tony, but I cut it 90 degrees off of the angle, so it wasn't as simple as shortening and reattaching the feet. Had to use a brace plate and space it the amount of the kerf...:BangHead::BangHead::eusa_doh:
Ok, I've uploaded the photos of my cutting table, but I'm not being very successful at attaching them to this note, and right now I don't have the time to figure out what I'm doing wrong. I'll figure this out later, but for now, please look in my uploaded photos for them.
Charley
Charley
I've used this method time and again for cutting ply strakes for boats.
The strakes are curved and keeping the sheets flat while cutting and being able to crawl along directly over my saw allows me to cut right along the line. A few swipes with the hand plane and it's right to the mark.
Doug
Some of us (like me) don't get down on floors very well anymore. After 2 knee replacements, things just don't bend far enough to allow this, and pressure on my knees is like kneeling on sharp road gravel,
I used to use the foam on the floor, but can't anymore. I still use smaller pieces on my workbench for routing or cutting to achieve the same effect though.
You have to use whatever works out best for you.
Charley
I used to use the foam on the floor, but can't anymore. I still use smaller pieces on my workbench for routing or cutting to achieve the same effect though.
You have to use whatever works out best for you.
Charley
Former fellow employee used to use the top of a Rubbermaid Roughneck plastic trash can for this. Problem is, once you cut across the top the trash can gets kinda wobbly. A little cost prohibitive to use 2 $40 trash cans to replace a 2 saw bucks that cost $12 in materials.
You'll note I said 'former' fellow employee.
You'll note I said 'former' fellow employee.
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