customizing small carving gouge handles

[CarvedTones]

I just ordered a few Warren gouge blades. You can see them on the lower left of this page:
http://www.warrencutlery.com/indexb.htm
I have one of the little gouges on the lower right, the ever popular 3/4" fish tail 4 sweep, and while it is one of my favorites, it is not just a handled version of one of the gouges. The fixed handled gouges have shorter shanks and the blade profiles available don't line up exactly. Anyway, I am not going to make a handle like those.

My first thought is to turn a handle similar to what many small to middlin' gouges and chisels have:

That have a slight flat spot for "registration" (so you hold them the same way every time after a few uses) and to be less prone to rolling. If I do that, is there any sort of magic formula for finger length to best diameter?

Other profiles you might suggest? I am mulling the idea of going a little long so I can do the two handed relief technique (rock the baby ). I also plan to leave a flat spot for occasional additional light persuasion. I harbor no illusions about making them mallet tools, but sometimes a tap is a lot easier to control.

As a point of reference, here is the "standard" handle that Warren sells:

 

[Sealeveler]

How about Mastercarver style handles like from Woodcarvers Supply.Tony

 

[CarvedTones]

You mean these?

 

[Sealeveler]

Yes,I don't have any but they look like they would be comfortable in the hand.Tony

 

[stave]

I don't have any pictures but have customized several of my gouges with new handles. I turned handles with a small lip above the ferrule and a handle that was tapered...smaller at the base. The end was slightly rounded for comfort but flat enough for a mallet. After the handle was fitted, I sanded a flat spot on the lip to keep the gouge from rolling. To size the handle I just found a dowel or handle that felt good in my hand and copied it.

As for the length, make it an inch longer than your hand is wide and you will have plenty of leverage and it will give you more control too. This will also enable you to use the gouge by pulling it towards you and use it with two hands. On some of my wide rough out gouges (25 to 30mm plus) the handles are 12" to 14" long to give me more control and enable me to use my entire body weight to push it through the wood.

Hope this helps.
Stave

 

[CarvedTones]

One of my cheap imported chisels (the Warren blades, hand forged in the US, have not arrived yet) had a crack in the handle so I rehandled it just to work on the basics.

Persimmon, no finish yet, half a copper coupling for the ferrule.

 

[Sealeveler]

Did you see any sparks come off the simmon.Tony

 

[CarvedTones]

Actually, the persimmon isn't so bad to turn in spindle orientation slicing with a really sharp skew. Scraping the tenon for the ferrule was another matter. The cheap chisel is not quite true (tang is not perfectly in line with blade) so it is difficult for me to tell if I got the hole exactly right. Gary (NCTurner) and I were talking yesterday and he suggested I drill first and use a shop made mandrel which I think worked pretty well.

My Warren blades are supposed to ship today...

 

[CarvedTones]

They arrived yesterday. I turned some cherry handles. They are a little rough, but I am trying 3 different profiles to see what I like. They came wicked sharp!