Bandsaw Blade Tracking Problem

[timf67]

Thanks to Mitch (Amish Warlord), his truck, his back (sorry!), and Tony's Genie lift I got my new (to me) Delta 28-475X bandsaw home on saturday. I spent the rest of the weekend trying to get a 3/4" x 3AS-S timberwolf blade set up on it for cutting a few turning blanks. No matter where I put the blade on the wheels, it climbs its way to the edge and stops once the teeth are off of the tire and over the wheel taper. I took the riser loose (after a couple of trips to Harbor Freight and Sears to get a 1 1/8" wrench and later a 1 1/4" wrench when I figured out that the nut on the 3/4" bolt was a heavy duty nut... :BangHead: ) and made sure the wheels were aligned and coplaner. I played with the tracking adjustment which works by using a set screw to adjust the angle of the upper wheel. No matter what I do, the blade works its way to the edge of the wheel. I would let it run in its "happy place", but at the edge it hits the clip that hold the lower door closed and makes a horrible noise too! :confused_

Does the alternate set tooth pattern of the blade pull the blade to the edge of the wheel? Is there a way to try and center the blade? Should I reduce the blade tension? Any help would be appreciated! Here is a pic of the blade in its "happy place" (sorry for the cell phone pic!!!!)

 

[WoodWrangler]

Creeping to the front means that the top wheel needs to lean "back" (top towards back). There are reasons to leave the teeth hanging off the edge with carbide tipped blades, but with this style blade it should be on the wheel. Not sure if it will hurt the teeth, but it can't be good for them. Also, like this when you cut your boards will pull away from the fence -- which is annoying.

If you don't get it in line, I can swing by and take a peek one day.

 

[timf67]

Creeping to the front means that the top wheel needs to lean "back" (top towards back). There are reasons to leave the teeth hanging off the edge with carbide tipped blades, but with this style blade it should be on the wheel. Not sure if it will hurt the teeth, but it can't be good for them. Also, like this when you cut your boards will pull away from the fence -- which is annoying.

If you don't get it in line, I can swing by and take a peek one day.

I tried tilting the wheel back, which helped center the blade on the top wheel but it moved further out (forward) on the bottom wheel. I may have to take you up on your offer to visit if I can't work it out this week.

 

[froglips]

I may be stating the obvious, but have you tried a different blade?

Any other blade would work, just to see if you've got some overall saw issue or its that 3/4" blade.

Jim

 

[WoodWrangler]

Yep, I'd be (1) trying a different blade and (2) checking for co-planar. Something is fishy.

 

[timf67]

I'm stubborn! I'd rather beat my head on the wall with this blade than try another one...:BangHead:

No, that is a good point and one that was on my list to try. I have noticed that the bottom wheel is not plumb, but does it matter as long as the wheels are coplaner? The bottom wheel tilts with the top to the right when looking at it...

I may be stating the obvious, but have you tried a different blade?

Any other blade would work, just to see if you've got some overall saw issue or its that 3/4" blade.

Jim

 

[Tarhead]

Definitely re-visit the adjustment of the top wheel vs the bottom. Sounds like they're not co-planar.

Somewhere in my neurons of endless minutia I remember a Flat vs Crowned tire rule from Duninskie or some edumacated expert and the placement of the teeth of a bandsaw blade. Are the tires crowned or flat? Flat = Teeth over the edge to the gullet. Crowned = Centered

 

[timf67]

Flat tires. You may have a point since the blade stops creeping when the teeth get off of the tire to the wheel (which is tapered away from the tire). I would hate to drop $50+ on new tires to test the theory though...

Definitely re-visit the adjustment of the top wheel vs the bottom. Sounds like they're not co-planar.

Somewhere in my neurons of endless minutia I remember a Flat vs Crowned tire rule from Duninskie or some edumacated expert and the placement of the teeth of a bandsaw blade. Are the tires crowned or flat? Flat = Teeth over the edge to the gullet. Crowned = Centered

 

[wdkits1]

I may also be stating the obvious but have you checked the lower thrust bearing ? If it is adjusted too far out it can keep the blade from riding the wheels properly.

 

[froglips]

Ah, that's an excellent point. This might also not show up with a narrower blade.

I smell victory... or my dog is in the room again....

Jim

 

[timf67]

Sorry, not an easy victory here (Sorry Jim!). I had all of the guides and thrust bearings adjusted out (away from the blade) and loose during the blade install.

I may also be stating the obvious but have you checked the lower thrust bearing ? If it is adjusted too far out it can keep the blade from riding the wheels properly.

 

[jhreed]

every time i have had this problem, it has been with a faulty blade. they were not welded together square. i would definitely try a different blade.

 

[bob vaughan]

The possibility exists that this problem may be there to stay if the saw is kept a is. That blade is way too thick to wrap around a 14" wheel easily. A 1/2" is about as wide as should be put on a 14" saw for efficient sawing. A blade like that should be on a 30" saw or larger with a five HP motor for best results.

The wheels of the 14" saws are badly made in that the combination of the skinny tire and the rounded inside corner flutes on the wheel results in three crowns rather than one. There's sort of a crown on either edge of the wheel and a crown in the middle. A thicker tire crowned on the wheel is likely to give the best results or sanding down the rims.

Here's an OWWM thread on the subject:
http://www.owwm.org/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=42888



Here's what I'm talking about. The top rim is how it came from the factory and won't track worth a darn. The bottom rim shows problem solved for good.

 

[Bas]

every time i have had this problem, it has been with a faulty blade. they were not welded together square. i would definitely try a different blade.

+1. I was surprised to learn this, but band saw blades have a pretty high problem rate compared to other blades. Too short, too long, incorrectly welded etc. Even blades from reputable sources such as Highland Woodworking (who did make things right BTW - excellent customer service).

 

[SteveColes]

I had the same bandsaw as you have. And the only reliable way to get proper tracking was to use a blade 5/8 or 1/2 or smaller. That saw was not made to take 3/4 blade. I was able to get 3/4 Woodslicer to work, but gave up on the long term becuase it was always a tough job to get it right.

Also, there is some history to suggest that timberwolfs that were welded by the exclusive NC distributor may have some welding QA problems. AT least this was the case about a year ago.

The 28-475 is rated by Delta as having a max of a 3/4 in blade. There is a rule of thumb that says the real max is 1/4 less than the specified max for almost any BS. For example. my current BS is a MM16 which says 1 1/4 max. Even the MM salesman said use 1" max.

 

[wdkits1]

If the guides have been adjusted and the upper wheel has been adjusted and the wheels are coplaner then your next option is to try another blade. I also have a Delta 14" with riser block and have been running 3/4"x3tpi exclusively since I bought the saw in 1993.The blade does hang over the edge slightly and if it rubs the door clip it is because there is not enough tension.I usually go about 3 more turns and the rubbing goes away. And unlike what lots of folks recommend about releasing the tension after use I never have and don't see the need.The saw runs like a clock.I can resaw all day long and keep a 1/16" tolerence on 10"wide stock.

 

[JackLeg]

Ditto what everyone has said about 3/4" blades on a 14" saw. :icon_thum I finally gave up trying to get one to track and just went back to a 1/2" blade and WALLA! Problem solved! Ain't what I wanted, but it's what works!
:wsmile:

 

[Trent Mason]

I tried a 3/4" Woodslicer on my 14" Grizzly and it was a nightmare. Definitely going back to the 1/2" blade as soon as I can afford another one. :thumbs_up:thumbs_up

 

[ErnieM]

Steve Coles said,

There is a rule of thumb that says the real max is 1/4 less than the specified max for almost any bandsaw.

Ditto on that. I have a 16" Shopfox\. The manual states the max blade is 1 1/4". I tried it. You can't even physically install a 1 1/4" blade on this saw - it just doesn't fit.

Ernie

 

[timf67]

Thanks everyone!!!

I put on a 1/2" timberwolf blade without changing anything and it tracked perfectly right down the middle.:icon_cheers

BUT, as I said before, I am stubborn and if I could run a 1/2" blade on my old 12" craftsman bandsaw I am gonna find a way to run a 3/4" blade on this saw!! :BangHead:

In the end I am gonna wish I bought the MM16 that woodguy was selling! :wink_smil