A New Child's Dresser (Finally Completed!)

[CrealBilly]

Looks store bought but more solid :thumbs_up

 

[SteveCogs]

Very solid, nice looking dresser. That should last many years.

 

[Travis Porter]

Re: A New Child's Dresser (WIP)

You seem to have the PC4212 pretty well figured out. I have not done as well with mine. Any tricks/things to be sure to check or do?

 

[Canuck]

Re: A New Child's Dresser (WIP)

You seem to have the PC4212 pretty well figured out. I have not done as well with mine. Any tricks/things to be sure to check or do?

Travis.

I have to admit that it has been a challenge for me as well. Well really frustrating at least sometimes.:embaresse

I have found that I need to mill up some practice stock to the same final thickness of the finished product; just for practice.

A few things that are critical for a good joint....

Stock must be flat and square.

The bit height can be set with the onboard gauge, but it really just gets you close. Test and tweak. This will control the looseness, tightness of the joint.

Those template lines on the various templates are quite thick. So, here to, you have to play with it with each test cut. Bumping the template backward or forward 'til you find the sweet spot.

Make absolutely sure that the vertical alignment gauge (right and/or left) are truly sitting flush and vertical to you vertical workpiece (drawer side's).

I use a spacer block (same thickness as the finished fronts and sides) tucked in along with the horizontal (drawer fronts) and vertical (drawer sides) boards in the jig clamps. In addition, the spacers will help to prevent blowout when you are routing the last/first pins/tails.

Again. Having plenty of extra stock for test cuts is a definite plus, in my book!:wsmile:

The manual I believe is really not all that well written. There is a supplemental manual available at the Port Cable website that offers a little more detail.

Hope this helps a little as I know just how frustrating it can be.

Wayne

 

[skysharks]

Re: A New Child's Dresser (WIP)

:notworthy:Wayne, what can I say, fantastic job and a great write up with pics. My hat is off to you.:notworthy::notworthy:
I enjoyed the reading and looking at the whole thing.:XXcompute You should feel very proud of that piece.

I see in picture that you branded the insides of the drawer.
I have been wanting one of those myself. DO you have the electric version?

MAC

 

[MrAudio815]

Re: A New Child's Dresser (WIP- UPDATE #2)

Wayne,

Great Thread, Thanks for all the cool jigs, and the step by step, very well put together.

And That is a Very Fine piece of Furniture~! Way To Go~!

 

[Canuck]

Re: A New Child's Dresser (WIP)

:notworthy:Wayne, what can I say, fantastic job and a great write up with pics. My hat is off to you.:notworthy::notworthy:
I enjoyed the reading and looking at the whole thing.:XXcompute You should feel very proud of that piece.

I see in picture that you branded the insides of the drawer.
I have been wanting one of those myself. DO you have the electric version?

MAC

Thanks for the kind words there, Mac!

Yes. The iron is an electric version. My oldest daughter got it for me from Rockler this past XMas. I find that the warmup time is rather extensive - at least with this one. It takes a good 20 minutes to get hot enough to brand hardwoods. (Maybe it is because it is rather new.)

Thanks again!

Wayne

 

[Travis Porter]

Re: A New Child's Dresser (WIP)

I'm glad it isn't just me. I learned getting the template flat the hardway. It may seem flat, but it won't be and you have to check it. I also make lots of extra pieces and made 15 test cuts before I went production with my last run of drawers and the bit broke halfway through. I ended up trashing 6 drawers and have to start over (not just for the dovetail joints).

You pretty much reinforced what I have learned the hard way. The spacers I will do when I redo my drawer runs again.

Travis.

I have to admit that it has been a challenge for me as well. Well really frustrating at least sometimes.:embaresse

I have found that I need to mill up some practice stock to the same final thickness of the finished product; just for practice.

A few things that are critical for a good joint....

Stock must be flat and square.

The bit height can be set with the onboard gauge, but it really just gets you close. Test and tweak. This will control the looseness, tightness of the joint.

Those template lines on the various templates are quite thick. So, here to, you have to play with it with each test cut. Bumping the template backward or forward 'til you find the sweet spot.

Make absolutely sure that the vertical alignment gauge (right and/or left) are truly sitting flush and vertical to you vertical workpiece (drawer side's).

I use a spacer block (same thickness as the finished fronts and sides) tucked in along with the horizontal (drawer fronts) and vertical (drawer sides) boards in the jig clamps. In addition, the spacers will help to prevent blowout when you are routing the last/first pins/tails.

Again. Having plenty of extra stock for test cuts is a definite plus, in my book!:wsmile:

The manual I believe is really not all that well written. There is a supplemental manual available at the Port Cable website that offers a little more detail.

Hope this helps a little as I know just how frustrating it can be.

Wayne