9/4 and 5/4 lumber

[CrealBilly]

I asked this question here a couple of years ago but would like to ask it again. Since it keeps coming back to my mind.

What's your thoughts about 9/4 and 5/4 rough sawn lumber thicknesses? The way I've been thinking about it for a while now, those who like book matched boards could joint a face, a edge and re-saw 9/4 into two 4/4 boards for pair of 3/4 finished boards and those folks who like full 2" finished stock could get it out of 9/4 rough sawn. Also those who like to work with full 1" stock would be able to get it with 5/4. By jointing a face and a edge of 5/4, then re-sawing in half for 1/2" dressed book matched boards. By jointing a face and two edges then re sawing 9/4 twice to yield three 1/2" ~ 5/8 book matched boards.

I'm pretty sure this isn't a new idea, but it kind of makes sense and seems that a lot of the more common store bought dimensions are pretty much covered with just the two rough-sawn thicknesses (5/4 and 9/4).

1/2" finished (pair book matched) = 5/4
3/4" finished (pair book matched) = 9/4
1/2" ~ 5/8" = (three book matched) = 9/4
1" finished = 5/4
2" finished = 9/4

I realize that most wood workers have 14" bandsaws that are limited in their resaw capacity to 6" without the addition of a riser block. So that's one gotcha...

Your thoughts and comments are much appreciated...

 

[Alan in Little Washington]

One consideration - whose definition of 5/4?

When my local sawyer cuts wood to 4/4 he actually cuts it 1-1/8" thick to allow for shrinkage. Depending on the species, by the time it is dry it is so close to 4/4 that it is usually only good to be planed to 3/4". Due to surface uneveness, etc. it is not possible to get boards 1" and 7/8" is sometimes not possible.

So, my solution is to have him always mill to 5/4 which he mills to 1-3/8" or more. If I need to plane them to true 1" thick boards, I can. I have a lot of waste if I plane 3/4" , but I can resaw and plane for two 1/2" thick boards.

 

[WoodWrangler]

These are actually the sizes that I prefer. A little more room to "dial in" the size I want (which is usually not 3/4")

 

[bobby g]

Jeff,

Those would work well for me too.

bobby g

 

[CrealBilly]

One consideration - whose definition of 5/4?

When my local sawyer cuts wood to 4/4 he actually cuts it 1-1/8" thick to allow for shrinkage. Depending on the species, by the time it is dry it is so close to 4/4 that it is usually only good to be planed to 3/4". Due to surface uneveness, etc. it is not possible to get boards 1" and 7/8" is sometimes not possible.

So, my solution is to have him always mill to 5/4 which he mills to 1-3/8" or more. If I need to plane them to true 1" thick boards, I can. I have a lot of waste if I plane 3/4" , but I can resaw and plane for two 1/2" thick boards.

Yep I know what you mean Alan, I had the same problem, with sawyers around here. That is till I bought a sawmill that came with a hardwood 1/4" scale, so the boards fall off the logs a 1/8" thicker. 4/4 is actually 1 1/8", 5/4 is 1 3/8", etc... As a matter of fact I only use the inch scale to measure the diameter of the log, when the log is first loaded on the mill. Then cut the boards, both width and thickness to the 1/4" hardwood scale.

I've eat a lot of my own dog meat persay... and I can honestly say the 4/4 boards I cut sometimes finish to 7/8" thick and almost always finish to 3/4, there is that occasional board that warped up bad during drying that just won't make 3/4" though.

 

[Glennbear]

I like the concept however as I understand things 9/4 greatly complicates kiln scheduling (Scott Smith would know better than I. :wsmile:

 

[Kyle]

I like the concept however as I understand things 9/4 greatly complicates kiln scheduling (Scott Smith would know better than I. :wsmile:

Absolutely. The thickness dramatically increases the drying time.

As for the quality of the wood, GIGO ( garbage in, garbage out) As a sawyer you don't get the log you want to saw, but saw the log you are given .

Many occasions I am given logs that are average at best and the yield of great wood is always less than desired.

I personally like 9/4 wood and 5/4 lumber as it allows for more flexibility in the use.

 

[JimmyC]

I also like 5/4 and 9/4 wood better in general, as long as it's KD. Iam willing to pay more per board foot without a problem. One of my problems now is is that I have way more than enough 4/4 in stock. So 5/4 and 9/4 would be wonderful.

BTW Jeff, I've never had a problem with your wood, it always machined to 13/16" cleanly and most of the time 7/8". Your QS wood runs were some of my favorites, I only wish that you would have done the runs in cherry and maple also. Thanks for getting me into buying from sawyers instead of stores :icon_thum.

 

[Alan in Little Washington]

As a sawyer you don't get the log you want to saw, but saw the log you are given .

:eusa_clap:eusa_clap:eusa_clap:eusa_clap

 

[CrealBilly]

As a sawyer you don't get the log you want to saw, but saw the log you are given .

I see you've had to deal with people that have illusions of grandeur too... Glad I'm not the only one :gar-Bi

 

[CrealBilly]

I like the concept however as I understand things 9/4 greatly complicates kiln scheduling (Scott Smith would know better than I. :wsmile:

From what I've learned from Scott about kiln drying lumber. The thicker timber like 6/4 and above is best air dried to equilibrium, then polished off and sterilized in the kiln. Even thinner boards like 4/4 benefit from air drying before being loaded into the kiln. I'm sure Scott and explain a lot better than I can...

 

[JimD]

If you are having a tree cut up and you don't know what you will do with the boards, it might make sense to get it cut to 9/4 and 5/4 for the reasons you cite. But if you are buying wood for a specific project, it would be significantly more work to resaw all the 9/4. And it will cost more partially because it takes longer to dry. If you want bookmatched grain, there are other ways to get it. Like you can resaw a few veneers off a board you like and glue them to a plain board.

Jim