I have a 20 yr. old 14" BS that I've customized with 10" of phenolic riser block. This allows a 16" resaw capability, which I use fairly often. A carbide-tipped 1/2" blade helps in resawing, too.
Second thing I did was to put a carbide blade on the saw.
It will make a 3/4 Hp motor behave more like a 1 1/2 - 2 Hp.
HTH
I believe jointer size would play a part when cutting thicker stock down to 1/4 and bigger; however I would be reluctant to run veneer stock through my jointer i would probably use my planer and a sled for veneer stock, which is 12.5 inches.
Of course i say that and i just thought that just this weekend i did just that with 7/32 poplar that i was milling down to an 1/8th. I used double sided tape and a 2x6 cut to length.
I am just extra cautious on equipment that took my grand pa's digits. So the jointer and the RAS i am real careful.:saw:
Without being able to joint the board (of course there are other was other than a powered jointer) how are you going to get a truly flat face to reference off your planer bed. When I cut veneer or thin stock. I first joint the face that will on the fence and edge on the table. Take a slice, then joint the fence face again. That gives me a flat surface to either drum sand of plane. What Jeff... said earlier is pretty valid. If you're going for a true book match and are just splitting one board in half. You would want to surface both side. He mentioned jointing both sides. That might result in an uneven thickness. I would joint one face and then run it through the planer to get the other face smooth and parallel. Then split your board and use the flat faces to reference off the planer or drum-sander bed to true up the other faces.
MTCW,
Dave
I guess i didn't type my post the way i was thinking it.... I use the planer with a sled to joint the veneer. The bottom of the sled is flat and that is what it is jointed face is reference to, so flat bottom = flat face. Then the stock is removed from the sled and the flat side down, and that trues the other face.
But the time i've done it, i've started with thin stock and just half it so. The boards were jointed and planed to begin with and the surfaced face was used as the reference face on the sled so guess i could have done with out the sled.
John,I'm a Bandsaw connoisseur. I've owned bansaws from 10" to 36" and everything in between. This is just a list of what I've owned, not what I've used.
10" Ryobi
14" Rikon
14" Grizzly
16" Minimax
24" Meber
36" Moak
The throat on the saw is more important than resaw capacity once you get to a certain capacity. I think as long as you have 10" of resaw you are going to be good. The thing you want to think about is the throat and table. Everytime I'm in my shop bandsawing I miss my 36" bandsaw... Not because the resaw height, but because of the table size and the throat. I think a good all purpose saw is a 17". The one Jeremy suggests is a good one to get and a good buy. You have enough throat for just about any operation you will be doing, enough resaw for a normal guy, and enough HP to resaw when you need to.
Good Luck,
John