What to do with extra oak flooring?

[LeeNC]

I have some extra oak flooring and was wondering what I can do with it. I had thought to use it to make drawer boxes and small boxes. The problem is that it is pre-finished flooring. Originally, I had thought of just using my plainer to take the finish off and to clean up the back. I have since started to wonder what the finish would do to the life expectancy of the knives. The flooring is new in box and does not have any nail issues. What would you do with only one box of oak flooring? I have no money in the flooring, so donating it to Habitat is an option.

Lee

 

[DavidF]

I have some extra oak flooring and was wondering what I can do with it. I had thought to use it to make drawer boxes and small boxes. The problem is that it is pre-finished flooring. Originally, I had thought of just using my plainer to take the finish off and to clean up the back. I have since started to wonder what the finish would do to the life expectancy of the knives. The flooring is new in box and does not have any nail issues. What would you do with only one box of oak flooring? I have no money in the flooring, so donating it to Habitat is an option.

Lee

You could always try a drum sander to remove the finish.

 

[RandyJ]

I have used some for pen turnings...come to the dark side!!

 

[FredP]

it depends on how much you have. drum sanding is a bad idea. BTDT.. it gums up the paper instantly. it doesnt hurt planer knives all that much. if you have a set that is getting dull use those then replace them. my delta lunchbox uses double sided carbide knives and I've not seen any effect from planing finish off. I wouldnt do it with my 20" planer because the cost for replacing knives is too great and they are HSS but the small planers knives are fairly cheap. you could also keep the prefinished side to use inside boxes. glue squeezout doesnt stick to it but flocking will with just a light scuff and it saves having to finish the inside. if there is enough to make good use of then I would go for it.

fred

 

[rbdoby]

Lee,

That finish is a lot harder than anything you can apply yourself. I assume that they are 2-1/4" tongue and grove. Glue the boards together to make up some panels and make some boxes or chests. Miter the joints and use biscuits. You'll have to finish the inside but the outside would have a finish.

Rick Doby

 

[Canuck]

Remove the finish with a belt sander and then a couple of thin passes on the jointer/planer. May be great for small projects! Don't through it away!!:cry_smile:gar-Cr

Wayne

(who is currently overwhelmed with scrap, but maintaining:wsmile

 

[cpw]

Lee,
First thing I'd do is set some aside for repairs down the road - someone over-waters a houseplant a few times, or the dog decides that the corner of the rug makes a nice toilet, or the kid drops the hammer claws down, and you've got matching pieces set aside you'll be a superhero.

That done, I guess it would depend on how much I had left as to what I'd do with it. If it were just a bit, I've probably consider doing some photo frames to match my new floor. Just use the finished side out and trim and paint the edges black, or some other neutral color. If I had a lot, I'd probably just set it aside until I had a project in mind.

 

[Glennbear]

it depends on how much you have. drum sanding is a bad idea. BTDT.. it gums up the paper instantly. it doesnt hurt planer knives all that much. if you have a set that is getting dull use those then replace them. my delta lunchbox uses double sided carbide knives and I've not seen any effect from planing finish off. I wouldnt do it with my 20" planer because the cost for replacing knives is too great and they are HSS but the small planers knives are fairly cheap. you could also keep the prefinished side to use inside boxes. glue squeezout doesnt stick to it but flocking will with just a light scuff and it saves having to finish the inside. if there is enough to make good use of then I would go for it.

fred

I have a large stash of wood with 40 years worth of finish/refinish on it and following the advice of Fred and others I have started running it through my DW735 planer instead of attempting to sand it off. The finish is easily removed and so far appears to not have an adverse effect on the knives. :wsmile:

 

[rywilson]

Lee,

What kind/color is it?

I just did some remodeling in my house and had to remove about 1/2 the hardwood from a closet in order to patch else where.

If its a match I will buy it from you.

 

[LeeNC]

Thanks for all of the responses so far. There have been many great ideas.

In response to a few questions, it is standard 2 1/4 T&G. The lengths vary in the box. I believe it is mostly #1 common. I will have to check the color when I get home. The wood is leftover from a co-workers remodel at his house. It does not match anything in mine. The color is one of the lighter stains and may be close to natural. Again, I will check later. I have it because I hated the thought of it getting trashed and figured that I could find something to do with it.

Lee

 

[SRhody]

Do you need something else for the workshop? I used some flooring (unfinished) as the top of a workbench, it turned out great. Very durable and in my case when it gets to beat up I either sand it down or for minor knicks apply another coat of varnish.

 

[lwhughes149]

My husband and I salvaged a few oak boards from the local landfield several years ago, removed the nails and made a walnut and oak bar for our great room. Turned out great. Lorraine

 

[LeeNC]

Lee,

What kind/color is it?

I just did some remodeling in my house and had to remove about 1/2 the hardwood from a closet in order to patch else where.

If its a match I will buy it from you.

The flooring is;

Bruce Hardwood Flooring
3/4 X 2 1/4 Solid Oak
a little over 20 sqr ft.
One Item # on the box was C 134. I think this might refer to the grade of poly on the finish.
I think the collor is "mellow" or "gunstock".
Lee

 

[rywilson]

The flooring is;

Bruce Hardwood Flooring
3/4 X 2 1/4 Solid Oak
a little over 20 sqr ft.
One Item # on the box was C 134. I think this might refer to the grade of poly on the finish.
I think the collor is "mellow" or "gunstock".
Lee

Lee I was excited when I saw my email and it had butterscotch as the color. Then I see that you edited the post and listed gunstock. Everything matches except for the color.

 

[LeeNC]

Lee I was excited when I saw my email and it had butterscotch as the color. Then I see that you edited the post and listed gunstock. Everything matches except for the color.

It may be butterscotch. I will check the box again. The end I could look at did not have anything I recognized as a color. Will post something this evening.

 

[Badabing]

I had some leftover Bruce flooring very much like that. I made this with some of it:

:rotflm:

 

[erasmussen]

If its like my flooring the finish is HARD as nails
I used some for zc inserts and used some for a face on some fences worked great, got some stashed for when i want a new fence:icon_thum

 

[LeeNC]

If its like my flooring the finish is HARD as nails
I used some for zc inserts and used some for a face on some fences worked great, got some stashed for when i want a new fence:icon_thum

I had not thought of that. It would probably last longer than the MDF I have used for a fence face on my router table. I am planning on making one or two crosscut sleds for my table saw. I might use some for the face of the fence.

 

[LeeNC]

The only thing on the label that might be a color is "Marsh". I will ask the person I got it from if he remembers what it was.