Made me curious too. A close look (increasing size of picture on my computer monitor, not phone) helped me see what I think is a screw hole and plug or a dowel inserted through the vertical to the back edge of the lower step. The area is a bit lighter than rest of the vertical, and this looks to me like this was spot sanded and not yet wiped clear of the sawdust/swarf.Very interesting design.
How did you couple the lower step with the taller verticals? Since the front of the upper step is not over the base of the taller verticals, it looks like there will be a rotary load on the connection between the taller sides and the lower step.
Domino, dowel or whatever.Here is a pic marked in red where I used dominos for strength. Henry the light area you mentioned mid way down the long leg is where I forgot to set the domino depth and went completely through the side, domino plugged, flush cut and sanded smooth. I am still learning the domino and all the settings. Ivan on my version I made the long leg more vertical to hopefully reduce some of the torque effect standing on the top step. This is NOT a stool I would make to sell and only maybe give to people who weight under 150lbs and sign a release of liability......
Ivan I am 250lbs and it has held me every time I have climbed aboard. I am going to keep testing it to see how long it lasts. I mainly put the pieces under the steps to break up the lines a little. Wait to until you see my next stool I copy, another engineering feat.Marty,
Thanks for the explanation/info.
It looks like it would be a great stool for a kid to use to brush their teeth at a sink with a vanity.
I was thinking that it was for heavier folks (like me) because of the support/stiffener under each step.
What do you guys think? Bridal joints strong enough? I think the guy where I found this sells these stools.Marty,
Thanks.
I look forward to the next one, too.
Taking off on CHarley's idea on the 2nd piece, I might suggest cutting a gnetle arc in the bottom of the cross pieces to reduce footprint. I see the bottom step already has a saddle joint from the step support right below the step, so miving the cross piece up complicates the joinery.Marty,
i like your stool, and the design of the other one that you posted in the 2nd photo, but I think both need a smaller leg footprint. With large legs contacting the floor there tends to be too much wobble when placed on imperfect floors, like in older homes. For the one in the 2nd photo, I would move the cross piece between the legs up to the bottom of the 1st step. I think I would also increase the surface areas of both steps. It does look like a very sturdy design, although somewhat difficult to make due to the joint designs. These are just suggestions. I would not hesitate to but my 229 lbs on either stool. They both look sturdy enough to last another century or two.
Charley
Once finished I am only going to use felt strips on the legs of the original stool in this post. I agree adding "feet" could create too much stress on the whole design. Thanks for your info.Yes, bridle joints are strong enough, as long as your wood is up to it. That example looks like oak, which is plenty strong.
For a design like the one with the bridle joints, you can add feet to deal with uneven floors.
In your original design, do you have any bracing across the grain on that bottom step? If not, adding feet may be a problem; it it would make that bottom step want to crack at the joint between the front and back legs.