Show Me Your Workbenches & Give Me Ideas

[flatheadfisher]

I realized early into my first project that my current workbench is not well suited for woodworking. It is "L" shaped and fitted into a corner, attached to the walls. There are shelves above it. The shelves limit my ability to work with tall pieces and I can't walk around it. It worked great for messing with fishing and hunting gear but not for woodworking. I am selling out all my fishing & hunting gear and redesigning my shop to make it more friendly to woodworking. I am going to tear out the shelves along one long wall to make room for a work bench. I want to be able to walk around the bench to make hand planing large panels easier. I have spent hours looking at bench plans and reading about them. I think I am suffering from information overload - the more I read the more confused I get about what I really want. Here is what I know:

1. I want to be able to walk around the bench.
2. I want to use it for hand planing and clamping.
3. I will be making furniture, cabinets, and some small items like boxes.
4. I would like to be able to slide it against the wall if I want more room for other projects in the shop.
5. I want good vises that give me lots of options.
6. I have plenty of room for a long & wide bench.
7. It would be nice to sit at it on a stool but I can use my other bench for that.
8. It would be nice to use it as an outfeed table for my table saw. My wife would appreciate that since she currently serves in that roll.
9. I want to be able to use holdfasts but I would also like some storage underneath for planes and hand tools. I could put these items in a cabinet on the wall it will be near.
10. I would rather spend more money on good vises (for the bench) instead of on nice wood to make the bench out of.
11. I have no experience with good vises for woodworking much less how to pick the out and what to consider when designing the bench as far as their installation goes.
12. I don't want to spend weeks on a bench that used lots of fancy joinery if there are quicker ways to do it that work just as well. I would rather put that time into remodeling my kitchen or finishing up the bedroom furniture.
13. I want it to be very solid. I don't care if it never leaves the shop.
14. I think I prefer an edge-grain top instead of plywood or MDF but I am not completely sure.
15. I am thinking construction lumber might be a good option but I don't mind using something else if the cost isn't too bad.

You all have lots more experience with this than I do. What can you tell me that will help me? How about posting some pictures of your benches and tell me what you like about them and what you would do different?

Thanks!

 

[Mike Davis]

Everyone I have talked to that built a bench wanted to build a better one. Not necessarily a more expensive or better looking one just that they learned something about building the first one or something about the way they need to work.

Don't make it too big. Not so wide that it is hard to reach across.

I haven't built one yet because I know I don't have room, to build it nor to leave it sitting in one place. If you make it heavy enough to stay put you will want to let it stay put!

I don't see much reason to use Maple or some very hard wood on the first bench except for the weight. A three inch thick top will last a lifetime unless you are using a cleaver on it. Later, after you know more about your needs then make a nicer bench in hardwood.

 

[sediener]

Check out Workbenches by the Schwartz if you haven't. Southern yellow pine is his wood of choice which is cheap and looks nice if you take the time to find good stock. He walks you through different workholding vices and give pros and cons for them for the type of work you do.

 

[CarvedTones]

My .02...

You are likely going to have to choose between these:

2. I want to use it for hand planing and clamping.
13. I want it to be very solid. I don't care if it never leaves the shop.

and this:

4. I would like to be able to slide it against the wall if I want more room for other projects in the shop.

unless you throw some pretty serious cash at it. I have seen very few benches that have been moved around a lot and are still very stable. The few I have seen are high end. Hand planing will make some benches that seemed solid suddenly seem very rickety. Very few operations generate that kind of lateral force.

I would lean toward building one that is a bear to move but solid as a rock.

EDIT - Rereading this, it seems I very much like to say "very" very often.

 

[Sandy Rose]

Michael - check out this link to Popular Woodworking...it may be what you're looking for.

http://www.popularwoodworking.com/article/bench

 

[Bas]

I have two workbenches. A "real" woodworkers workbench and a general purpose workbench. Still need an assembly table (piece of MDF on the floor works but it's not great).

- Space restrictions aside, you can't really make a bench too long. Long is good, it means you can pile more tools on before having to clean up.
- Don't make it too wide. Somewhere between 24" and 30" is ideal. Narrower and you don't have enough work space, wider and it's hard to clamp stuff.
- You can make a workbench mobile (I put a mobile base under mine), but don't expect agility. It's enough to move it out of the way without straining, but I would not want to roll it from one end of the shop to the other (although in my case, if I put it lengthwise it almost reaches both ends of the shop (well, not really, but you get the idea). You may want to reconsider using it as an outfeed table if you have to move it more than two feet or so.
- I agree with the principle "build a bench to figure out what you want in a bench". You can never have too many work benches anyway. When you replace it, you can relocate the old one to the garage/ shed/ deck, or use it as a tool stand or something
- You need at least a front vise. A tail vise is useful. I bought an expensive one from Lee Valley. In hindsight, I could have gone with a cheaper one. Not that the LV isn't worth it (it is very, very well made), but my install job was less than stellar (you try drilling holes that are 2 5/16" in diameter!). But don't buy the cheapest either.
- Simple is good. I built a frame (mortise and tenon) and used metal L-brackets to attach the top. The long rails are fastened using bed bolts, which means I can take the bench apart if needed.

I built my bench out of Southern Yellow Pine. It works great. It's softer than Maple or Ash, but very cheap. It dings and dents pretty easily, but at least you don't feel like crying when the chisel slips (unless it slips into your finger of course). I accidentally put a saw kerf on the vice jaw last weekend when breaking down a sheet of plywood. Oops. Life goes on. I would not use ordinary white pine, too soft/ light. You need some mass.

Pictures can be found in one of my previous posts.

I might add a cabinet of drawers (with drawers you can open either side) underneath my bench. Just set it on top of the rails and add a cleat or something.

My next bench, if I ever build one (2023?), I will make out of Ash. Just to have some variety, the SYP works fine. It will be longer (however long my shop can accommodate) and 2" wider. Height is perfect.

 

[CarvedTones]

I should amend my earlier comment to say "pretty serious cash and/or effort." As a couple of posts have pointed out, SYP is a heavy but cheap alternative. But if you are going to hand plane and want it mobile, I think you will need to put it together like the high end ones, not with construction style joinery or studs. Think 4x4 legs and 2x8 stringers. If I seem to be yammering on about that hand planing it is because I have hand planed wood on benches that I thought were solid as a rock for every other operation and then felt a little give when hand planing. It doesn't take much to mess with you.

 

[Bas]

I think you will need to put it together like the high end ones, not with construction style joinery or studs. Think 4x4 legs and 2x8 stringers.

Very true. I made my legs 3x3 and 2x6 stringers, but my bench is 65" long. If you make it longer, then 4x4 legs and 2x8 stringers are recommended. I suggest M&T joinery for the frame, but you don't need hand cut dovetails for the skirt. That's pretty, but simpler options are available.

I can do some light planing (e.g. joint an edge) without issues, but the bench moves too much for my taste for heavy duty planing. Then again, I rarely do that (power tools....). The mobile base is partly to blame for that, a different mechanism (e.g. like on the movable assembly table Norm recently built on NYW) would help.

 

[rbdoby]

Michael,

There are some pictures of my workbench in my photo gallery. It's 8 ft. long and 30 inches wide. I can't remember how tall it is. The frame is 2"x6" yellow pine. The legs are 4"x6" yellow pine. The top is 2 sheet of 3/4" plywood with a 1/4" sheet of hardboard on top that can be easily replaced. The sides of the top are 2"x6" hard maple and I have a Veritas twin screw vice on the end. Added some t-track to help hold jigs, plastic bench dogs from Rockler with holes every 6" on the sides and top.

I'm about a 45 minute drive north of you, you're welcome to come up test drive my bench time.

Rick Doby

 

[Matt Schnurbusch]

I would second the opinion to read Christopher Schwarz's book "Workbenches..."

While I have not yet built my own bench, this was one seriously enlightening read. Lots of great ideas and theories. My dream bench currently is the one on the cover. I might change it slightly to include just a little storage in the bottom, probably drawers across the length, and an end vise, but I love the look of that bench.

For right now I have a torsion box assembly table that I do alot of work on, and two 36"x96" solid core doors on saw horses that I use. Unfortunately there isn't a vise in sight whish is really a hinderance (more so than I thought it would be. I look forward to being able to build a bench in the near future.

Matt

 

[cpowell]

I am going to offer little help on selection criteria. Just remember that you don't get anything for free. Every option you select has an opportunity cost.

Here's a link to my workbench thread. http://www.ncwoodworker.net/forums/f81/workbench-wip-9872/

Here's a few pics.

The front vise, a Groz version of a Record vise, works pretty well. Darn well if you aren't a purist. The end vise is a cheap Woodcraft vise and was worth what I paid. Racking is a problem on the end vise.

There are a lot of things that can be added to a bench after construction. There are some things that should be accounted for before completion. I learned a lot looking at other benches and asking questions. My bench is pretty plain but provides a flat surface with vises and storage area for some of my tools.

Chuck

 

[flatheadfisher]

Thanks for all of the input, gentlemen. I have been pondering my options - to the point that I couldn't sleep last night because I kept thinking about it. I hate it when I do that - OCD?

I ordered the Large Quick Release Front Vise and the Veritas® Twin-Screw Vise along with some bench dogs and other goodies this morning. I called Steve at Wall Lumber and told him about the plywood that I had bought. It was defective because all three sheets kept coming apart when I cut it. He said he would make it up to me and I ordered 110 board feet of 8/4 hard maple. He is going to plane and straight-edge one side for me pro bono to make up for the defective plywood. I am going to pick up the lumber tomorrow. Now, all I have to do is figure out how to construct the bench and get started!

I am thinking about making an edge-grain top that is three inches thick, 6 feet long, and 2 1/2 feet wide. I haven't figured out how to square the edges yet. I can level it with hand planes. I will glue up some boards to make the legs - four inches by whatever the thickness of the 8/4 is after they plane it. I asked them to get it smooth but make it as thick as possible. I will use some eight or ten inch boards to join the legs together. I haven't decided how to do that yet - probably threaded rod? I really need to learn mortise & tenon joinery...

I have noticed that lots of benches are made with the two legs on the short ends attached to a horizontal piece of wood that is on the floor. In other words, the legs don't actually sit on the floor, they attach to another piece that is on the floor. I guess that makes it more stable? I haven't figured that out yet. I am not sure if that even makes sense or not.

At least I have decided on a few things and have the materials on the way. Now I have to do some more research and start figuring out how to tackle this project. All suggestions are appreciated! Remember, this is only my fourth project so assume I need all the help I can get! :gar-Bi

 

[CarvedTones]

I have noticed that lots of benches are made with the two legs on the short ends attached to a horizontal piece of wood that is on the floor. In other words, the legs don't actually sit on the floor, they attach to another piece that is on the floor. I guess that makes it more stable? I haven't figured that out yet. I am not sure if that even makes sense or not.

Look closely at the bottom picture in Chuck's post (what an awesome bench!). That horizontal piece does have feet. That's important. I am not sure the guys who poured my garage weren't also pouring something else that day ccasion1 :eusa_naug. The surface is not dead flat; few are. The only kind of chair that doesn't have feet is a rocker; not a good attribute for a bench.

Based on your BOM and rough ideas, you will be building something quite solid. A lot of my earlier comments were based on your point 15 about using construction grade lumber and wanting to cut costs, both of which I have done. I don't regret it, but if hand planing were a primary need I would. Actually I regretted it somewhat because of mallet carving, but I have a separate small bench on an iron column as a solution for that.

 

[flatheadfisher]

Thanks, Andy. I did change my mind about using construction grade lumber. I am planning to make a similar top for our kitchen and I though using the maple for the workbench would be good practice (at least that is what I told the domestic unit). I am going for a very solid bench that will last the rest of my years and then maybe somebody else can have it. After looking at all of the benches (like Chuck's), I just had to spring for the hardwood. I am even planning on getting some purpleheart to use in a few places.

How are those legs attached to the piece with the feet?

 

[CarvedTones]

How are those legs attached to the piece with the feet?

Uhm, ankles? :dontknow: :rolf:

I think it is M&T but Chuck will have to chime in to give you an educated answer...

 

[flatheadfisher]

ankles! :rotflm::rotflm:

I went back and read through Chuck's post again & I think it is M&T.

 

[jeff...]

Here's mine...

 

[Gofor]

Here is mine:



Lots of more pics of the construction in the album "Wood Bench". White Oak top and construction pine base. 23" w x 60" long. One of these days I will add drawers in the base for planes and chisels, etc. It is rock solid for hand planing and has seen a lot of it.

You are very wise to get the vises first and designing the bench around them (DAMHIKT!!)

I personally think edge grain rather than end grain would be better and easier to accomplish. I have never wished mine was wider, but I definitely wish I had built it at least 2' longer. If you go edge grain, try to put all the boards running the same direction. Makes it a lot easier flattening the top with a plane and avoiding tear-out.

Also, look at Monty's album. He detailed his very well and it is a very nice bench.

Hope this helps

Go

 

[striker]

I believe a number of folks have built benches similar to mine. It was a popular plan from FWW "workshops" several years ago.

 

[DaveO]

Also, look at Monty's album. He detailed his very well and it is a very nice bench.

Hope this helps

Go

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/forums/f101/workbench-project-completed-1131/?highlight=Bench

And it's already been moved to our new "How To" forum :icon_thum


Dave