Saw musings....

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Bas

Recovering tool addict
Bas
Corporate Member
So all of this started out because I'm unhappy with my miter saw. It's capacity is limited, and more importantly, the fence isn't square to the blade, making it very inaccurate. Those are the two things I want: The ability to rough cut boards up to 12" wide, and accurately cross-cut smaller pieces, e.g. face frame rails and stiles. Harbor Freight makes a great 10" sliding miter saw that would be perfect for rough cutting. And there are lots of affordable 10" fixed miter saws that can do both straight and angled cuts. But one machine that does it all can get expensive, and more important unwieldy. The Kapex and the new Makita LS1016L appear to be the only two saws that combine accuracy and capacity without the need for a 4' deep cabinet to mount it on.

So that's one thought...

At the same time, I'm thinking about upgrading my table saw. I've been very happy with my JET Proshop, but I've always considered it to be an "temporary" saw. When I bought it two years ago, manufacturers had just started to include riving knives, dust shrouds and better blade guards on their machines. So I figured that if I waited a couple of years I'd have a lot more choice - and I was right for a change! Also, it'd be nice to have some more power for cutting heavier stock.

My biggest gripe with the table saw is that they need so many accessories before they're useful. It starts with an outfeed table. You can't rip anything over 2ft without one. There is typically only 7"-8" of space in front of the blade, so it's always tricky keeping a a long board tight against the fence while cutting the first foot or so. Crosscutting with the standard miter gauge is also limited. That means either investing in a good after market miter gauge, crosscut sled or sliding table attachment. Of these three, only the sliding table really works with larger panels/ sheet goods (unless you build a monster crosscut sled that requires a winch to hang it from the ceiling :swoon:) Want to miter or taper? More jigs. The top of the line machines now have riving knives and good guards (with dust collection), but many table saws require a separate solution like Shark Guard or Excalibur overarm guard. Combined, all these accessories would cost more than twice what my saw cost!

I was intrigued by Grizzly's two sliding table saws, the G0700
g0700.jpg

and the G0623X:
g0623x.jpg

Both of these are VERY competitively priced.

Neither is capable of handling a full sheet of plywood, but cutting moderate sized panels, table tops etc. should work extremely well. Compound miter cuts also appear to be very feasible, which means my future miter saw only has to make straight cuts. There is also the safety factor. For most operations, your hands aren't even near the blade. Combine that with built-in hold down clamps and flip stops and other gizmos on the sliding carriage, and it's easy to see how the operations that are difficult on a table saw becomes simple on a slider. Now, don't get me wrong, I can see where a traditional cabinet saw has advantages over a slider, especially when it comes to ripping. But that's primarily about setup time, not capacity.

Not too many people here on the forum have a slider. I know Travis has a Felder and he has mixed feelings about it. Dino loves his. Has anyone else looked at these, or something like the Hammer K3?
 

EricS

Eric
Senior User
Bas,
I use an Altendorf F-45 on a daily basis at the cabinet shop I work at. This machine out performs our powermatic 66 hands down. I find the slider does not compromise any operation except when you are ripping a piece that is just slightly larger than your finished piece( no support) We have a miter attachment for the slider that is quickly set up. Unfortunately this saw is $14,000 used and has an 8' out feed table, but as far as the slider goes I'd buy one in a second if I had a chioce.
 

eyekode

New User
Salem
I have a Makita 10" sliding compound miter saw. And I have never been particularly happy with the accuracy. And it requires huge depth to get full capacity (greater than a standard cabinet). It may be possible to set it up for accuracy but not with my level of patience :).

So it is relegated to cross cutting rough lumber and various construction projects.

For accurate crosscuts I use a sled on my TS. Not as sexy as a slider but such is life.

Salem
 

Mt. Gomer

New User
Travis
I have a Makita 10" sliding compound miter saw. And I have never been particularly happy with the accuracy. And it requires huge depth to get full capacity (greater than a standard cabinet). It may be possible to set it up for accuracy but not with my level of patience :).

I've also got a Makita 10". It's one of the older models and it does require a deep cabinet but as you point on the newer models take care of that. I've actually had VERY good results in terms of accuracy (maybe I got a good one...). The puzzle tray I recently made for my daughter has mitered corners. I usually do them on the table saw but I figured it was going to be painted and used by a 5 year old so miter saw miters would be just fine. Anyway, I stack cut both pairs on the miter saw. First cutting one end then moving the saw to the other 45 stop and sliding the pair down to cut th eother end doing the highly accurate "align with my finger tip technique". Much to my surprise the miters came out perfect.....

As for the table saw I was lucky enough to get one (the DeWal hybrid) that already came with just about every accessory I'd ever need (though no riving knife). I love the sliding table. It doesn't have the capacity of some of the saws you mentioned (24") I believe but it makes crosscuts a breeze. If you want to put off your decision for a while on the TS you might be able to fit a dewalt sliding table extension on your jet... Gator has posted a few times that the Habitat store in oxford has a few of these for sale for a very low price ($75). It it works you could try it out for a while to see if you want to invest in one of the larger sliders...

I've been tempted to go buy one of them. The sliding table on my saw works great but has several gouges in the top from a previous owner (looks like they were using it as a workbench and accidentally hit it with a grinder or circular saw...) but they're flush with the table top and don't casue any problems so I've not bothered to worry about it....

Trav
 

Trent Mason

New User
Trent Mason
I see what's going on here. :eusa_thin Bas, you just want to go back up to Grizzly, where you turn into James Bond, work your magic and they give you a free table saw just for gracing them with your presence. :rotflm::rotflm::rotflm:

I wish I had something meaningful to add here, but I'm still rockin my $100 Skil TS from the BORG. Go get a nice one and I'll come over and help you test it out. :gar-La;
 

eyekode

New User
Salem
Travis, I am going to need you to come over and set my Makita up :). Squaring the fence to the blade is tough!
 

Mt. Gomer

New User
Travis
Travis, I am going to need you to come over and set my Makita up :). Squaring the fence to the blade is tough!

I'd be happy to help if I had any idea how. Mine was like this out of the box. I've not had to touch it. Maybe I just got lucky.

Travis
 

Phil S

Phil Soper
Staff member
Corporate Member
Bas, I have a Uni with the Delta add-on slider and it works great. It seems to be quite accurate and stays good even when I remove and reinstall the sliding table, which I do quite often to reduce the width of the saw. With the fence in the front position the crosscut capability is 24 and with the fence in the rear the capacity moves up to 36". For small work I still use a miter gauge or my slide miter saw. Not sure if Delta still offers the slider, if not it comes up on the used market every so often
 
OP
OP
Bas

Bas

Recovering tool addict
Bas
Corporate Member
Eric - thanks for the feedback. The machines I'm looking at are a tad cheaper, but I don't do this for a living either (I'd starve!)
Joe - thanks for the pointer, good reading on SMC
Salem - I think you summed up my concerns with a sliding miter saw.

Travis/ Phil: With a slider attachment, do you find the distance between the sliding table and the blade to be a limitation? My main reason for a slider is being able to handle larger panels, and the miter saw is well suited to cutting smaller pieces, so that wouldn't be too big of a concern.
 

zapdafish

New User
Steve
The Festool TS55 is awesome for breaking down large sheet goods. I rarely need to use the TS anymore for stuff made out of sheet goods.

They have a 30 day trial where you can return it if you aren't satisfied.
 

Don Alexander

New User
Don
i'm sure Festool makes a very good product however its way outa my price range so i use my milwaukee circular saw and 2-3 very simple jigs i made to reduce sheet goods to size

its very accurate , easy to use and i already owned the saw :gar-Bi

the jigs are madeout of stuff i had laying around in the shop one for ripping full sheets( 98") one for crosscutting full sheets (50") and one thats about 34" for smaller stuff

very portable too as a bonus :gar-La;
 

Mt. Gomer

New User
Travis
Travis/ Phil: With a slider attachment, do you find the distance between the sliding table and the blade to be a limitation? My main reason for a slider is being able to handle larger panels, and the miter saw is well suited to cutting smaller pieces, so that wouldn't be too big of a concern.

Nope, it's not bothered me a bit. Like you I usually do smaller pieces on the miter saw. Even on the table saw it works great if you use an extended fence on your miter gauge. I really like the added mass the sliding table adds to the operation. The extra inertia allows for a smoother, more controlled cut.

I am planning to make a small parts sled to use with the table. I'll lock the sled into the slot on the sliding table so it acts as one piece suitable for really small stuff...

As always, you're welcome to come by and try it out.

Travis
 

woodlaker2

Ray
Corporate Member
Bas, get a copy of the most recent Workshop News. It has information (manufacturer provided) on 14 miter/sliding miter saws.

I also just bought the Milwaukee 6955-20 12" slidiing miter saw and so far it can handle all of my needs including some fairly wide crown/base moulding. Tom Hintz at NewWoodworker.com has a great review of the Milwaukee (I bought it from him).

As for sliding TS's I can't help you. Would be nice to get a new TS but the Delta I have has a lot of life left in it. I'm just now making the outfeed table. Together with my 18" Laguna BS I have all the capability I can use for now.

Good luck on your hunt.
 

Travis Porter

Travis
Corporate Member
A slider is nice, very nice for easy accurate cross cuts, but at times it gets old changing between functions. My slider being a bigger model than you are looking takes a LOT of space.

Some of the negatives of some sliders (not all)
They don't take different blades (my saw requires 30 MM blades)
They don't have 3/4" miter slot so a lot of your jigs/accessories will not work
Store bought accessories even mail order are limited thereby reducing your shopping opportunities.:tool:
Some are unable to take dado blades
Throat plates are weird. I don't know how else to put it.

There are a lot of positives, but I don't think I will discontinue owning a miter saw any time soon. I may upgrade to a Kapex or the Makita :rolleyes:, but for me, the slider by itself isn't enough. Well, with what little woodworking I have been doing lately it is enough, but you know what I mean.

Still, a slider is a sweet machine and does an excellent job on cross cuts, rips, and custom cuts. You do have to change your way of thinking/operating to do a lot of stuff though. I'm not saying one way is better than the other, but on a slider, how you do it and what you do, is different at times from a regular tablesaw.
 

JimmyC

New User
Jimmy
Get you a good radial arm saw. The heavier and older the better.

I agree with Sully, as long as you have room. I have a 12" DeWalt SCMS, a 10" craftsman RAS (from the 70's) and an older Jet Cabinet saw . I have needed nothing else. If you incorporate your RAS (which are inexpensive) into your set up with your miter saw youwill have more than enough table space. Set the RAS for a 90 degree cut and leave it, there is no better crosscut set up, or dado set up, in my opinion. Most people are against RAS because they either don't have the room or because they tried to use one in the same capacity as a tablesaw ( ripping).

Good luck bro', but I think that maybe you should have looked into this before you built your cabinets :eusa_doh:.
 
OP
OP
Bas

Bas

Recovering tool addict
Bas
Corporate Member
Get you a good radial arm saw. The heavier and older the better.
Radial arm saws seem to have fallen out of favor, I've never used one. I like the idea of moving the saw, especially when using it with a dado stack. Never been a big fan of blind cutting dados, either on the table saw or the router table. Crosscut capacity is limited though, at 15" (on a 12" machine). But I can't argue this is a great tool for certain operations.

Bas,

Take a look at these http://www.feldergroupusa.com/ then the second slide in the slide show that starts when you get there. they are saying they have a sale going on and there is one for $2900.00 or there abouts. Felder is well known.

I think the ad is for a band saw, not a table saw. Felder is a bit out of my league, both in terms of capacity as well as price. I also looked at the Hammer K3 Winner, but I hate the fact that they don't show prices and you have to get a quote.

A slider is nice, very nice for easy accurate cross cuts, but at times it gets old changing between functions. My slider being a bigger model than you are looking takes a LOT of space.

Some of the negatives of some sliders (not all)
They don't take different blades (my saw requires 30 MM blades)
They don't have 3/4" miter slot so a lot of your jigs/accessories will not work
Store bought accessories even mail order are limited thereby reducing your shopping opportunities.:tool:
Some are unable to take dado blades
Throat plates are weird. I don't know how else to put it.

There are a lot of positives, but I don't think I will discontinue owning a miter saw any time soon. I may upgrade to a Kapex or the Makita :rolleyes:, but for me, the slider by itself isn't enough. Well, with what little woodworking I have been doing lately it is enough, but you know what I mean.

Still, a slider is a sweet machine and does an excellent job on cross cuts, rips, and custom cuts. You do have to change your way of thinking/operating to do a lot of stuff though. I'm not saying one way is better than the other, but on a slider, how you do it and what you do, is different at times from a regular tablesaw.
Travis, thanks for the feedback. The "USA-specific" sliders (Grizzly, Hammer) seem to have fewer of these issues. They take dado stacks and use standard imperial arbor sizes. As for not having a miter slot, I was hoping that the sliding table, fences and clamps that come with the saw would eliminate the need for many of the custom jigs.

As for keeping a miter saw, I'm not expecting to get rid of it entirely. But if I added a RAS or sliding table saw a regular CMS would probably suffice.
 

Travis Porter

Travis
Corporate Member
You don't have to wait for a quote from Felder/Hammer. Register on their website and you can get to their pricing and their deals.

They are not cheap, but their smaller stuff isn't too bad, and if you watch you can find a used/new unit close someone has up for sale. There was one in Charlotte not too long ago about the same capacity as the Grizzly you are looking at.
 
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