DC Connection to table saw

[DSWalker]

Looking for something like an HVAC vent connection but in rubber. Would look similar to the photo below.

This would attach to the bottom of the housing around the table saw blade, also shown below, on my Darra James saw, and hopefully collect the majority of the dust.

Any suggestions? Ive been chatting with another member about a 3D printed option, but ultimately we don't think that will work. I'm going to check at some HVAC suppliers to see what might be available. Let me know if you've seen anything that could work. It is approx 3" wide and 10.75" long.

 

[tvrgeek]

Unfortunately, our old saws that did not come with a lower boot are basically stuck. I guess you could make one from rubber or edpm sheet. Just glue the seams. There are ABS boots much like you describe. Check Rockler.

I have been toying with ideas of using the blade as a fan against a close fitting wedge to blow the dust from the gullets and just got a little cordless blower to see if one can blow the dust out, TS or BS in the direction of the DC port.

 

[Rwe2156]

Assuming you have at least 600CFM at the saw, I hope it works for you, but you’re still gonna have dust thrown at you off the blade, polluting the air.

For 20+ years I just cleaned the cabinet out as needed.

That said, I have heard of fires, and yes, I had smoke coming out one time……but sharp blades prevent that.

 

[mdbuntyn]

You might be able to use the vent connection as form and cast something out of silicone

 

[DSWalker]

Assuming you have at least 600CFM at the saw, I hope it works for you, but you’re still gonna have dust thrown at you off the blade, polluting the air.

For 20+ years I just cleaned the cabinet out as needed.

That said, I have heard of fires, and yes, I had smoke coming out one time……but sharp blades prevent that.

I'm hoping to rig something for top and bottom. Won't be perfect, but anything is better than nothing! I do get a lot of the fine dust blowing out the back side of the cabinet as it is mostly open due to the external motor.

 

[DSWalker]

Unfortunately, our old saws that did not come with a lower boot are basically stuck. I guess you could make one from rubber or edpm sheet. Just glue the seams. There are ABS boots much like you describe. Check Rockler.

I have been toying with ideas of using the blade as a fan against a close fitting wedge to blow the dust from the gullets and just got a little cordless blower to see if one can blow the dust out, TS or BS in the direction of the DC port.

I actually have some (old) tractor tire inner tubes that I might be able to fashion something out of. You have me thinking. Will also check Rockler.

 

[Gotcha6]

The only two options that come to mind are a piece of PET roofing material, that can be heat welded, and possibly a sheet of PVC shower liner. PET would be something you might pick up from a commercial flat roof contractor, and the shower liner would be available at the Big Box or plumbing supply stores. HTH

 

[HITCH-]

Could you get someone with a plastic printer to make you a piece that would fit on the saw and then accept a standard DC fitting?

 

[DSWalker]

Could you get someone with a plastic printer to make you a piece that would fit on the saw and then accept a standard DC fitting?

Yes, I was talking to another member here about this option. The plastic is pretty rigid and he feared it wouldn't flex enough to "snap on" to the base. It is still an option though.

 

[Wilsoncb]

It looks like there is a pretty big opening at the top of the blade housing. I think you might get a fair amount of sawdust that will escape from that opening. I think that opening is there too accommodate clearance when the blade is tilted. The whole tilt feature is what really makes what you are trying to do very difficult.

I understand you are just trying to just get most of it, so with that in mind, I have a different suggestion. It looks like the base is already somewhat enclosed? Either way, can you make that area like a hopper bottom that funnels the sawdust to one side of the enclosed area? Then you can just cut a round hole for your DC connection. I made something similar to this for an old Craftsman TS. I still had dust escaping from openings around the tilt adjustment wheel and where the drive belt came through the cabinet area, but it wasn’t all over the floor. Good luck.

 

[tvrgeek]

For the top, it is called an over-arm guard. I have a modified big-tube Saw Stop on mine. Added brushes on the bottom. For the worst cut, that being a partial trim rip, I have a small funnel on a magnetic base I can stick on the table right in line with the spray direction.

With sufficient VOLUME of air, dust does not come out of openings, air goes in. The issue is how much and what flow pattern.

For printed parts, there are many different threads, from rigid and brittle, to flexible. A part may not always be made of one material.

 

[Henry W]

For the top, it is called an over-arm guard. I have a modified big-tube Saw Stop on mine. Added brushes on the bottom. For the worst cut, that being a partial trim rip, I have a small funnel on a magnetic base I can stick on the table right in line with the spray direction.

With sufficient VOLUME of air, dust does not come out of openings, air goes in. The issue is how much and what flow pattern.

For printed parts, there are many different threads, from rigid and brittle, to flexible. A part may not always be made of one material.

Added brushes on the bottom.
Scott - Please remind me what kind of brushes you were able to adapt to this purpose. i recall reading this on a much earlier post of yours, but forget exactly what you used. I need to do that.
My shop made overarm guard is ugly but very effective (as a guard and with shop-vac attached as a dust control measure).

 

[DSWalker]

It looks like there is a pretty big opening at the top of the blade housing. I think you might get a fair amount of sawdust that will escape from that opening. I think that opening is there too accommodate clearance when the blade is tilted. The whole tilt feature is what really makes what you are trying to do very difficult.

I understand you are just trying to just get most of it, so with that in mind, I have a different suggestion. It looks like the base is already somewhat enclosed? Either way, can you make that area like a hopper bottom that funnels the sawdust to one side of the enclosed area? Then you can just cut a round hole for your DC connection. I made something similar to this for an old Craftsman TS. I still had dust escaping from openings around the tilt adjustment wheel and where the drive belt came through the cabinet area, but it wasn’t all over the floor. Good luck.

Almost the entire back is open so the hopper wouldn't work well in this case.

 

[Gotcha6]

I used a piece of the PET roofing I mentioned and cut slits in it for the belt, mounting it to the cabinet with rare earth magnets, and it stops a lot of that. Another place to look is does the table top have clearance openings around the frame? Could those being closed off help? I'm still annoyed by having no over the blade pickups, as it slings sawdust into my face. But I'm getting better at using safety glasses in the shop in my older age.

 

[Wilsoncb]

Almost the entire back is open so the hopper wouldn't work well in this case.

Yeah, that’s even more wide open than my old Craftsman. That’s going to be a tough one to deal with. Maybe on nice days, you could wheel it outside and let it fly!

 

[DSWalker]

I used a piece of the PET roofing I mentioned and cut slits in it for the belt, mounting it to the cabinet with rare earth magnets, and it stops a lot of that. Another place to look is does the table top have clearance openings around the frame? Could those being closed off help? I'm still annoyed by having no over the blade pickups, as it slings sawdust into my face. But I'm getting better at using safety glasses in the shop in my older age.

Yeah, I have a piece of 1/8" ply that I fashioned to cover it some, but it still blows a good bit out. Hence why I'm trying to catch as much as I can at the source. It may or may not work, only time will tell after I put something together. There are also leaks as you mention around the top, but those are much easier fixes.

I'm in a much smaller space now, so the dust will be in a much more concentrated area. The more I collect and direct vent outside the better!

 

[Jack A.]

If you're not opposed to a crude solution, aluminum flashing is pretty easy to work with, and you can fasten it with foil tape. Both available at the big box stores.

Flashing: Amerimax Home Products 20 in. x 10 ft. Aluminum Roll Valley Flashing 68320 - The Home Depot

Foil tape: Nashua Tape 2.83 in. x 50 yd. 330X Extreme Weather HVAC Foil Duct Tape 1906077 - The Home Depot