Rikon 14" bandsaw blade tension gauge help

[red]

Hey All,

Can someone post a pic of or tell me how their blade tension gauge is attached? Mine was bent when it was delivered (new) so I straightened it out and attached the round end over the pin sticking out from the bottom of the big spring. Is that how it looks on yours? My gauge is nowhere close to accurate. I know I can adjust it; I just want to know if it is attached correctly first. Thanks.

Red

 

[bholcombe]

According to Rikon, many of the bandsaw blades that are supposed to be sized correctly for this machine are slightly too long, giving a reading that makes you think the blade is too tight, even when it is clearly not tight enough. When I got mine back in November, Rikon customer service told me to put the blade guard all the way up, and push on the blade sideways if it moved about 1/4 inch (I think that was the distance he said, its been a while) you had the right tension. I thought my gauge was not installed from the factory correctly either, it turns out that it was fine.

 

[Mt. Gomer]

According to Rikon, many of the bandsaw blades that are supposed to be sized correctly for this machine are slightly too long, giving a reading that makes you think the blade is too tight, even when it is clearly not tight enough. When I got mine back in November, Rikon customer service told me to put the blade guard all the way up, and push on the blade sideways if it moved about 1/4 inch (I think that was the distance he said, its been a while) you had the right tension. I thought my gauge was not installed from the factory correctly either, it turns out that it was fine.

+1. I got the same info/instructions from Rikon when I called. I've since ignored the gauge and used the 1/4" deflection test and I've had no problems.

Travis

 

[red]

I just set it with the 1/4" deflection and that seems about right. Thanks. I re-adjusted the tension gauge to match. We'll see how it looks when I change blades another day. I'm new with working on a bandsaw and trying to get everything right so I can do good with it. Thanks again.

Red

 

[bholcombe]

Keep in mind that if you buy a different blade that is actually the correct length that your newly adjusted tension gauge will not read correctly then. I'd recommend just ignoring the gauge altogether otherwise you risk over or undertensioning your blade.

 

[Phil S]

I just received two new bimetal lenox blades from WoodCraft Bands. The 3/8 4h blade seemed to tension correctly but I could not get the 1/2 3h tight enough. The 3/8 blade measured 111 1/4 but the 1/2 blade it was 111 5/8. I called the folks at Woodcraft Bands and they said they cut all blades to 1/2 +- 1/4 long in case they have a problem welding - if they need to reweld they just cut the extra 1/2 off.
It seems that the extra length caused a problem for me. I am send the blades back to be remade to 111 and they have added a note to my file stating that all future blades must be exactly 111"

 

[Ken Massingale]

I just received two new bimetal lenox blades from WoodCraft Bands. The 3/8 4h blade seemed to tension correctly but I could not get the 1/2 3h tight enough. The 3/8 blade measured 111 1/4 but the 1/2 blade it was 111 5/8. I called the folks at Woodcraft Bands and they said they cut all blades to 1/2 +- 1/4 long in case they have a problem welding - if they need to reweld they just cut the extra 1/2 off.
It seems that the extra length caused a problem for me. I am send the blades back to be remade to 111 and they have added a note to my file stating that all future blades must be exactly 111"

Yep, the 10-325 can take a shorter blade, but not longer.

 

[Mt. Gomer]

Yep, the 10-325 can take a shorter blade, but not longer.

Yeah, but how much shorter??

 

[Ken Massingale]

Yeah, but how much shorter??

Travis if I remember correctly, Rod said 1/2".

More than one manuf. has told me they go +/- 1/2", which makes all BS tension guages useless it seems to me.

 

[Mt. Gomer]

Travis if I remember correctly, Rod said 1/2".

More than one manuf. has told me they go +/- 1/2", which makes all bandsaw tension guages useless it seems to me.

Seems that way to me too unless there was a gauge that actually measured the tension rather that the position of the tensioner...

 

[sapwood]

Seems that way to me too unless there was a gauge that actually measured the tension rather that the position of the tensioner...

Travis,
Actually they do make blade tension gauges. Here's a photo of the Lenox Meter that retails for $235.

Other brands are available too. Their relative value has been discussed in woodworking mags and forums over the years. The general consensus is they are overpriced and value is questionable . . . especially when one compares the ease and cost of setting by deflection or tone.

Roger

 

[Mt. Gomer]

Travis,
Actually they do make blade tension gauges. Here's a photo of the Lenox Meter that retails for $235.



Other brands are available too. Their relative value has been discussed in woodworking mags and forums over the years. The general consensus is they are overpriced and value is questionable . . . especially when one compares the ease and cost of setting by deflection or tone.

Roger

Yeah, I knew you could buy them separately... I was really talking about the ones you generally find built on to bandsaws which really measure position.... I've had very good luck with the deflection method myself....

Travis

 

[terry1166]

I've got the same Rikon 14" bandsaw. I've been using Timberwolf blades and they seem to always be cut long. I've been setting up the tension using Timberwolf's suggested "flutter" method and have had good success even with re-sawing. The blade tension readout never shows anywhere near the actual tension when used with the longer length blades.

Terry