No More Plastic Knobs !

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Splint Eastwood

New User
Matt
Have I ever mentioned how much disdain I have for plastic knobery?

As I venture into the wonderful realm of handtools (not ready for $100+ per) I took a cheap Stanley #4 and replaced the black plastic knobs for a hand turned front knob and Scrollsawed/routed back handle ( Thanks ScottM for the Walnut chunk !).

Had some router issues due to changing grain orientation and Drilling issues.

Does anyone have any tips on how to bore/drill straight ? My bit flexed and moved off center. To complicate matters, I had to drill at a 65 deg angle :eusa_doh:

This pic shows finished work plus orig knobs and template/proto's

Handplane1.JPG


And

Handplane2.JPG


Thanks for looking!

Matt
 

Mike Davis

Mike
Corporate Member
I had issues drilling a hole on an angle last week, I set up a block to jig the angle but my side to side support wasn't good enough.

So, I bit the bullet and ordered a machined cast iron right angle plate from Enco. It is made to clamp to and hold square so you can drill straight.

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?PMPAGE=447&PMITEM=418-4105

I'll try to set it up and show how it is used sometime this week.
 

CarvedTones

Board of Directors, Vice President
Andy
Matt,

Your bit "flexed" ?!?!?

To me, that sounds like either a bad (dull?) bit, a problem with the chuck or being a little too aggressive in drilling to depth quickly.

Your "after" picture looks great!

I have an old #4 that could use a new handle; the old one is wood, but has been broken and repaired, nicked and scratched.
 

Splint Eastwood

New User
Matt
Matt,

Your bit "flexed" ?!?!?

To me, that sounds like either a bad (dull?) bit, a problem with the chuck or being a little too aggressive in drilling to depth quickly.

Your "after" picture looks great!

I have an old #4 that could use a new handle; the old one is wood, but has been broken and repaired, nicked and scratched.

Andy,
Thanks,
I think you may be spot on. New bit(s) were used, 1/8in and 1/4 in. But I was very aggressive with drilling to depth too quickly.

It just amazes me though on how just a little flex will throw the end result off by 3/16ths or so.

I guess I need to learn a little more patience with drilling.

Thanks again!

Matt
 

CarvedTones

Board of Directors, Vice President
Andy
Yeah, patience - I've heard of that. :gar-Bi

I have had holes go off center by not starting very slowly. You can pick up a little speed after the bit has to fight to go off to the side. On really hard wood, I have even tapped a point in. I have a really lousy drill press and if it is encountering resistence there is enough slop to allow the bit to dance around a little.
 

Mike Davis

Mike
Corporate Member
Sometimes I use a spot drill to get started. It is a very strong short drill bit used in machine work.
 

Canuck

Wayne
Corporate Member
Handles look great, Matt!!!!:icon_thum:icon_thum:icon_thum:icon_thum:icon_thum

Bet they feel better in the hands too.

Nice upgrades.:wsmile:

Wayne
 

Splint Eastwood

New User
Matt
Handles look great, Matt!!!!:icon_thum:icon_thum:icon_thum:icon_thum:icon_thum

Bet they feel better in the hands too.

Nice upgrades.:wsmile:

Wayne

Thanks Wayne !

I did sorta custom fit.

BTW, I picked up a Stanley Bailey's Low angle block plane on Amazon. @ $20+ cheaper than WC and Rocler :eusa_danc. Im glad I did too... works great.

Talk soon!

Matt
 

Splint Eastwood

New User
Matt
http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/115/2397

page 2397

Cobalt Steel CNC Starting (Spotting) Twist Drill Bits

Picture_4.png





Or this is what I use

Center Drills, Set of 5 (Numbers 1-5) $5.49

480.1230.jpg


http://www.littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=1230

Couldn't find them at McMaster-Carr

The set I have is 20 years old, got them while in trade school.

OMG! I have a set (center drills) ! :rolf:. I thought they were for Countersinking holes!:embaresse

One less tool to acquire :tool:.

Thanks for enlightening the uninitiated :icon_thum.

Matt
 

Mike Davis

Mike
Corporate Member
They are made for drilling the center of a shaft to mount the live center in a metal lathe.

But they are so solid and accurate I use them for starting holes that have to be in the exact placement.

The drill at the top of my post is very good for starting accurate holes too, it gives you more depth to get your longer bit going in the right direction.

Of course, none of this helps if your setup is shaky, which is what I did wrong last week. I got in a hurry, thought "I can just hold that" and was too sloppy in my setup.

Now I have a convenient way to clamp things at 90° to the drill table. No more excuses for sloppy holes.
 

CarvedTones

Board of Directors, Vice President
Andy
When I am not feeling particularly lazy and the hole is of reasonable size, a counter sink bit is what I use. Even on as sloppy a drill as mine, it is pretty much self centering. On a lot of holes I am going to use it anyway, so I start with it. I really should get a better drill press. It is really annoying to bring a bit down dead on the mark and then have it slip to the side as it cuts in.
 

Splint Eastwood

New User
Matt
When I am not feeling particularly lazy and the hole is of reasonable size, a counter sink bit is what I use. Even on as sloppy a drill as mine, it is pretty much self centering. On a lot of holes I am going to use it anyway, so I start with it. I really should get a better drill press. It is really annoying to bring a bit down dead on the mark and then have it slip to the side as it cuts in.

Andy, I hear ya and feel your pain!

I have tried almost everything (sans these short drill bits) to get it right, but with mixed (inconsistent) results.

My revised mission in life is to drill dead straight!:gar-La;
 
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