Looking for tips on insulating gagage doors

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John Reeves

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John Reeves
Pete,

Blowing is easily the way to go. If you do it, I suggest that you put the holes at the top, two. One for feed and one for venting. ALSO put at least one more half way up. The cellulose will "bridge" sometimes and will not go all the way to the bottom or will stop at some point that you can not detect.

The holes are so easy to fix that it makes sense to have a few so you can make sure all is OK.

One last thought is to but some screen mesh over the vent holes to keep the cellulose form blowing out. Makes clean up easier.

John
 

mkepke

Mark
Senior User
Just ordered a pint of Flamestop III from these guys:
Fire Retardant Paint Additive - Flame Stop III Fire Retardant

It's an additive for water-based finishes (paint). Single-coat only required to achieve a Class A rating, so a pint of this stuff should be good for ~400-500 ft^2 of coverage.

I'll have to give the foamboard insulation a light scuffing to ensure adhesion..maybe a quick-trip through the drum-sander! :icon_thum

-Mark
 

thrytis

New User
Eric
Thanks Mark! I was thinking maybe priming with a spray paint made for plastic may provide a surface for the fire retardant paint to adhere to, but i haven't investigated at all.
 

John Reeves

New User
John Reeves
The foil backed foam board that I used also had a plastic surface on the side opposite the foil. This gives the board strength but will be hard to paint.

possibly you are not using the foil backed board.
 
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