I like to start by building the keyboard first because it requires very small tolerances and, therefore, the highest level of concentration. Doing this first, before my mind turns to mush, has worked well for me. While I have already had a full-sized plan printed, at this point I am taking measurements directly from the CAD file on my computer. There will be 3 or 4 posts pertaining to the keyboard itself. In this part (Part 1) we'll build the keyboard blank and the keyframe. So - let's build a keyboard.
The keyboard is made of 1/2" thick poplar. The first step is to edge glue enough stock to make a keyboard blank somewhat wider than the final width of the keyboard. The first photo shows the individual pieces that have had their edges jointed.
In the next photo, the six pieces are edge glued together.
The next two photos show the glued together keyboard blank with the plan of the keyboard drawn onto it. I won't go into the details of how this is done but if anyone wants to know I'll be glad to provide more details.
Now we'll put the keyboard blank aside for a while and build the keyframe that the keyboard will sit on. The keyframe stiles are made of poplar and the rails are made of red oak and maple. Steel pins will be driven into the two rails which will guide the keys. More on this later. The next photo shows the parts of the keyframe before assembly.
After the keyframe has been glued together the keyboard blank is placed onto it. The next photo shows the alignment marks drawn on the side of the keyframe and keyboard blank to insure that the keyboard blank is in the proper position on the keyframe. When this is so, a couple of brads are driven through the keyboard blank into the keyframe to hold the two together. The positions of the 102 holes that will be necessary have already been drawn onto the keyblank. By drilling the holes while the keyframe and keyboard blank are attached together guarantees that the holes always line up to one another when the keyframe and keyboard blank are separated.
After all of the holes have been drilled the 2 brads are pulled out and the keyframe and keyboard blank are separated. The next photo shows the some of the steel pins being installed into the holes in the keyframe.
After all of the pins have been installed, small felt punchings are inserted onto the pins on the balance rail (the front rail) and a strip of dense felt is glued onto the back rail. The next photo shows the completed keyframe.
Now - back to the keyboard blank. Each natural key will have a decorative piece attached to its front. These pieces are called arcades. It is easier to glue a strip of arcades to the front of the keyboard blank BEFORE the keys are cut apart. The following photo is actually five photos of the arcade blank put into one photo (thanks to PhotoShop) to save space on this post.
Strip A shows the arcade blank. The vertical lines correspond to the centers of each of the natural keys.
Strip B shows the first hole drilled with a 5/8" forstner bit.
Strip C shows the second hole drilled with a 3/8" forstner bit.
Strip D shows the third hole drilled with a 1/8" brad point bit.
Strip E shows the completed arcade blank which has been trimmed to the same height (1/2") as the thickness of the keys.
The next photo shows the arcade strip being glued to the front of the keyboard blank. Duct tape provides more than adequate clamping.
The next photo shows the keyboard with the arcade strip installed
Finally, the rear 3/4" of the keyboard blank is thinned down to 3/16" on the router table. The reason for this will be shown later.
Each key is numbered - a very important step as will be obvious in the next Part. That concludes the construction of the keyboard blank and keyframe. In the next Part we'll cut the keys apart and fit them onto their keyframe pins. See you soon!
Ernie
Part 1 - The Keyboard Part 2 -Keyboard con't. Part 3 - Keyboard con't. Part 4 - The Case (Bentside) Part 5 - Case Bottom Part 6 - Case Sides Part 7 - The Lower Braces Part 8 - Case Finished Part 9 - Building the Registers Part 10 - The Stand Part 11 - Jackrail & Moldings
Part 12 - The Music Desk Part 13 - Building the Benchhttp://www.ncwoodworker.net/forums/f101/harpsichord-project-part-12-music-desk-18962/
The keyboard is made of 1/2" thick poplar. The first step is to edge glue enough stock to make a keyboard blank somewhat wider than the final width of the keyboard. The first photo shows the individual pieces that have had their edges jointed.
In the next photo, the six pieces are edge glued together.
The next two photos show the glued together keyboard blank with the plan of the keyboard drawn onto it. I won't go into the details of how this is done but if anyone wants to know I'll be glad to provide more details.
Now we'll put the keyboard blank aside for a while and build the keyframe that the keyboard will sit on. The keyframe stiles are made of poplar and the rails are made of red oak and maple. Steel pins will be driven into the two rails which will guide the keys. More on this later. The next photo shows the parts of the keyframe before assembly.
After the keyframe has been glued together the keyboard blank is placed onto it. The next photo shows the alignment marks drawn on the side of the keyframe and keyboard blank to insure that the keyboard blank is in the proper position on the keyframe. When this is so, a couple of brads are driven through the keyboard blank into the keyframe to hold the two together. The positions of the 102 holes that will be necessary have already been drawn onto the keyblank. By drilling the holes while the keyframe and keyboard blank are attached together guarantees that the holes always line up to one another when the keyframe and keyboard blank are separated.
After all of the holes have been drilled the 2 brads are pulled out and the keyframe and keyboard blank are separated. The next photo shows the some of the steel pins being installed into the holes in the keyframe.
After all of the pins have been installed, small felt punchings are inserted onto the pins on the balance rail (the front rail) and a strip of dense felt is glued onto the back rail. The next photo shows the completed keyframe.
Now - back to the keyboard blank. Each natural key will have a decorative piece attached to its front. These pieces are called arcades. It is easier to glue a strip of arcades to the front of the keyboard blank BEFORE the keys are cut apart. The following photo is actually five photos of the arcade blank put into one photo (thanks to PhotoShop) to save space on this post.
Strip A shows the arcade blank. The vertical lines correspond to the centers of each of the natural keys.
Strip B shows the first hole drilled with a 5/8" forstner bit.
Strip C shows the second hole drilled with a 3/8" forstner bit.
Strip D shows the third hole drilled with a 1/8" brad point bit.
Strip E shows the completed arcade blank which has been trimmed to the same height (1/2") as the thickness of the keys.
The next photo shows the arcade strip being glued to the front of the keyboard blank. Duct tape provides more than adequate clamping.
The next photo shows the keyboard with the arcade strip installed
Finally, the rear 3/4" of the keyboard blank is thinned down to 3/16" on the router table. The reason for this will be shown later.
Each key is numbered - a very important step as will be obvious in the next Part. That concludes the construction of the keyboard blank and keyframe. In the next Part we'll cut the keys apart and fit them onto their keyframe pins. See you soon!
Ernie
Part 1 - The Keyboard Part 2 -Keyboard con't. Part 3 - Keyboard con't. Part 4 - The Case (Bentside) Part 5 - Case Bottom Part 6 - Case Sides Part 7 - The Lower Braces Part 8 - Case Finished Part 9 - Building the Registers Part 10 - The Stand Part 11 - Jackrail & Moldings
Part 12 - The Music Desk Part 13 - Building the Benchhttp://www.ncwoodworker.net/forums/f101/harpsichord-project-part-12-music-desk-18962/
Last edited:
