Chainsaw recommendations.....

[froglips]

Howdy all (and particularly DaveO).....

My dad is looking at getting a chainsaw to rough saw up blanks for turning bowls.

What size motor and length of blade do you think would meet his needs?

Electric is ruled out.

I'd also be open to brand or model recommendations, but he's on the cheap so it'll probably be whatever craigslist offers the universe.

Thanks,
Jim

 

[oderus1671]

if hes not planning on logging out the back 40 by himself, Id say go get a cheap 16" Poulan at Wally World. I bought one for sawing up camping firewood and some light lot clearing at it does me pretty good.

 

[DaveO]

I have a Stihl 260 pro with a 18" bar, it is the most popular saw for arborist use (non-climbing), but that might be more than he would need for the uses you mentioned. I would probably get at least a 30-40 cc powerhead and 16" bar. I highly recommend Stihl saws as they are very reliable. For the occasional user who might only run the saw for 10-20 minutes a month you want something that will start easily and reliabily. For his use I would recommend either the Stihl MS 210 (35cc) or the MS 250 (45cc) both with a 16" bar. and if he really gets into it a ripping chain would come in handy.
MTCW,
Dave

 

[Travis Porter]

I third the Stihl recommendation. I have had one for 15 years and have had to do zero to it besides sharpening the chains. It always cranks on the 2nd pull.

 

[jeff...]

well I can tell you what not to get and that is a pulan - I use my chainsaw more than the average hobbiest and my 20" pulan is a hunk of junk. Considering we had another incident this weekend with my drunk neighbor (I'm glad my oldest son did not pound him into the ground - but was close). I'm looking into getting a BIG LOUD chain saw head with a 60" bar. I'm going to set it up on a home made stationary mill bed, paint it bright orange and put it as close as I can to my neighbor's house. I'll run it every evening like clock work, till about 10:00 at night, or whatever the noise ordnance law will permit (if there even is one), even if I don't have any logs to saw that night, I'll pretend I do. I might even take the muffler off of it so it's even LOUDER and not shut it down on returning the head for the next cut. :-D

 

[sapwood]

Another vote for Stihl! I have the non-pro 025 model with 18" bar. Just add bar oil and sharpen. For seven years it has started flawlessly and I've only replaced chain once. However, they aren't cheap and are never discounted. I've had a couple of small McCullochs (14" and 16") that were much cheaper and cut ok. However, when you consume a tank of gas plan on waiting 30 minutes before restarting :lol: I don't know whether it's caused by heat, vapor lock, fouling, or design. But after cooling off they start easily :eusa_thin. That shouldn't be a problem for cutting blanks!

I've never owned a Poulan, but it is probably a better choice than McCulloch and the 16" bar is an appropriate size for your needs.

HTH and be safe . . . I consider the chainsaw my most dangerous tool 8-O

Roger

 

[scsmith42]

A lot of the pro sawyers use Stihl, Husqvarna, or Dolmar. All are fairly equal in terms of quality - the biggest deciding factor for most comes down to local dealer support. Pick the brand that has great local service and support.

I've got two Stihl's - an 044 and a MS260 - and have been very pleased with both of them.

If he'd like to err on the cautious side regarding longevity, advise your dad to throw out any gas/oil mix that is older than 30 days and replace it with fresh mix. My dealers tell me that this is the number one thing to do in order to maximize the saw's performance and longevity - somewhat similar to 3000 mile oil changes for your car. Synthetic oil mixes are reputed to stay fresh for longer periods of time.

 

[CarlaG]

the stihl i use was my dads,he got it in the early 80's.the bar and chain have been replaced a few times,a feul line,and of course the spark plug.now i dont use it on a daily basis,but i dont think a poulan or homelite would still fire up and run today,and should i have to replace it,you bet its gonna be another stihl!!!huskys are pretty good saws too,dont know what kind of saw budget you have,but the best advice i can give is buy the best you can afford and take good care of it and ittl take care of you,hope this helps

 

[Gofor]

I have a 20+ yr old Stihl (BIL gave it to me in 1986 because he got it cheap at a flea market and it wouldn't run. Cleaned sawdust out of the carburetor jet and have been using it ever since). Only advice I have is to put Sta-bil in the gas mix. It will keep the gas good for a LONG time, and will prevent the varnish buildup in the fuel system.
DaveO: do the stihl parts distributors routinely carry rip profile chains, or are they special order? I've got a few 24"d red oak logs I need to hack up.

Go

 

[clowman]

I can't remember the brand I have, but it has "Wild Thing" written on the bar. Don't get one of those, I can't keep the chain on it. I got it years ago after the last big hurricane, and had to have one.

 

[Toddler]

Husky is a little more comfortable for me, lighter. Stihl is a little tougher. Both are great, but Stihl is the local company. I have a great husky, but I got it in VT because that's what my tractor dealer sold. Here, I'd go Stihl. Seems like there are more dealers and only the HD or Lowes sells husky.

Todd

 

[DaveO]

DaveO: do the stihl parts distributors routinely carry rip profile chains, or are they special order? I've got a few 24"d red oak logs I need to hack up.

Go

I don't think that Stihl makes a rip chain, and if they do it's special order. There is a lot of controversy on the subject of rip chains for splitting logs in half (or for use on chain mills). Many say they aren't needed, and others swear by them. Like the combo blade vs. dedicated rip blade for a TS :icon_scra You can file the teeth of a normal chain back at a greater angle than normal and achieve the performance of a rip chain, just make sure that your rakers aren't too worn as it will be an aggressive chain and want to bog the power head.
Dave

 

[scsmith42]

Bailey's and Granberg International both offer ripping chain.

 

[Gofor]

Thanks for the replys (and my apologies for sidetracking the post). I'll go with what I have for now (when I finally do get to it), and look at a rip chain if its called for (Of course, I will have to have a new saw first to make sure That is not the problem:rolf

Go

 

[chris99z71]

Much of the decision comes down to anticipated amount of use vs. the money you want to spend. I'm not a fan of Poulan but I own one (with Craftsman badging). I use it about 2x/year for 5-10 minutes. For that amount of use, I couldn't justify the expense of a Stihl.
Just about every saw manufacturer (Husquvarna, Jonsered, etc) EXCEPT Stihl has seriously cheapened up their saws in recent years.
Also, FWIW, most fire departments use Stihl saws... That speaks to a few things, mainly durability (firemen beat the heck out of anything they use) and reliability (folks call us as a last resort..."there ain't no 9-1-2")

 

[Toddler]

http://www.stihlusa.com/chainsaws/MS460Rescue.html

If that's true, it's probably partly due to it being good to cater to your customer! But the requirements of a firedepartment are going to be different than those of a lumberjack or forrester. When I worked in NH, there was a store that sold both I stopped by. Great place.

They also thought the Stihl saws were more reliable than the Husqvarna's. But also said I'd pay for that in weight and worse balance.

The two guys in their back repair shop, laughingly, told me to get a Stihl so I wouldn't ever have to come visit them all the way from Vermont.

But other than needing a new fuel line, my Husqy is going fine after 8 years and a lot of chains. (I've really got to stop cutting the stumps off below ground level :drunken_s ).

Todd

 

[Dusty Sawyer]

I had always intended on getting into milling with a chainsaw someday. Several years ago, a couple of flly by night tree guys stopped by and offered to take out some of the trees overhanging my house. For the work they did do, the price was more than fair. But they did not cut up the logs as promised. My old saw had just given out on me, which actually left me with an opportunity to get a decent saw ( much to the wife's dislike ).

After doing quite a bit of research, I settled on a Stil 044 which comes with a 22" bar, but also runs sweet with a 32" one perfect for chainmilling. I buy my blades from Maddens, but Granberg's is just as good.. with 105 teeth to sharpen, I keep a couple on hand. I cannot say enough about the Stil though, it's been one tough machine and has never let me down. It has the power to drive that rip chain through a 28" wide log of oak and has made many lighter jobs much easier.

So here I am a few years later and the wife has admitted many times over that the expense of the saw has been repaid many times over in beautiful furniture and bowls that have come from the trees in our own property.

 

[Kyle]

well I can tell you what not to get and that is a pulan - I use my chainsaw more than the average hobbiest and my 20" pulan is a hunk of junk. Considering we had another incident this weekend with my drunk neighbor (I'm glad my oldest son did not pound him into the ground - but was close). I'm looking into getting a BIG LOUD chain saw head with a 60" bar. I'm going to set it up on a home made stationary mill bed, paint it bright orange and put it as close as I can to my neighbor's house. I'll run it every evening like clock work, till about 10:00 at night, or whatever the noise ordnance law will permit (if there even is one), even if I don't have any logs to saw that night, I'll pretend I do. I might even take the muffler off of it so it's even LOUDER and not shut it down on returning the head for the next cut. :-D

You need a husky 3120XP..9 hp of pure neighborly terror. I have neighbor like yours and cant wait until I move to the farm..

 

[froglips]

Thanks to all for the great advice! We ended up with a new Stihl MS230 purchased from Dual Supply, our local old timey hardware store in town.

Does that mean I can change this thread into my first full blown Tool Gloat!!!

Thanks!
Jim

 

[Dusty Sawyer]

I have to say you made a great choice. Take time to bring it through the break-in period, keep it clean inside and out, never run it dry on oil. It's probably the last saw you will have to buy.

I love mine to death and talk it up every chance I get, but nobody else has ever been allowed to touch it. _