Wine cabinet commission

Willemjm

Willem
Corporate Member
The upper case face frame pieces have been cut and dimensioned. Final lengths will follow after upper case assembly and then the face frame will be made.

Next, we start with the doors, drawer fronts and side panel rails and stiles.

I do this the long way around, but always end up with perfectly flat and square pieces, they actually stick together with atmospheric air pressure when done.

Face joint

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Plane to within 1/32” of final thickness, that will be one pass on the jointer and one pass on the planer

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Then I edge joint


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Then cut close to final width on the table saw.
After that, due to kiln dried lumber moving ever so slightly once cut, I go back to the jointer, another 1/32” edge joint and then back to the table saw to trim around 1/16” of the other end of the board. After that it is off to the miter saw and cut to exact length. We now have a perfectly flat and true board from every angle. Finally the board goes through the drum sander at 150 grit, which is my final sanding finish.
 

Willemjm

Willem
Corporate Member
A little more work on the bottom case is drilling the move able shelf holes using again an inexpensive Kreg jig.

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Time to mill rails and stiles.

I use two shapers, one setup for cope, the other for stick. For cope I use an air ride pneumatic sled, picked up on an auction. Best find ever!

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Then follows the stick cuts on the other shaper with a power feeder.



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With all the cope and stick cut for the whole job, we will end today and start working on the raised panels tomorrow.


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One note about this Cherry, it was in inside storage for more than 8 years, really pretty stuff and I picked up just over 1,000 bf for $1,400. I think the uhaul trailer was around $130 and $35 for gas.
 

Skymaster

Jack
Senior User
Willem My friend, save yourself gazillion hrs, invest in Kreg foreman, 400 bucks, you can do in 1 hr, what takes you almost 8 hrs using the jig you have. Trust me, I have several of the same as you. Short story, doing 100 urn runs,each urn 12 pocket screws, got real tired using those small jigs, bought foreman, touch over i HOUR 1200 pocket holes!!!!!! way way cheaper than heavy duty Castle,not a castle in any stretch, but fantastic for our purposes. JIG IT® Shelving Jig w/Self-Centering Bit,https://www.rockler.com/pro-shelf-drilling-jig the pro is what i use
 

chris_goris

Chris
Senior User
By the way, I have been using Solidworks almost since it’s inception, as a mold designer in the plastics injection and blow molding industry. That is where they cut their teeth and developed the platform to what it is today.
From when they copied Pro/Engineer (sortof) this is why I call it "sortaworks" .... which Ive been using since 1993
 

Willemjm

Willem
Corporate Member
Raised panels and drawer boxes today.

Go through the same process with the boards, cut to a fraction more than final length, face joint one pass, planer one pass, edge joint, table saw straight line rip the other end and same end on the jointer 1/64”.

Boards are square and flat, Titebond original and into the clamps.


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The clamping system used keeps alignment well in check, below is a pic of the joint line right next to the clamp body, to show that.

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Using titebond original, I remove from the clamps within 15 minutes, never had an issue, but secret is a perfect fit and no stressed joints. Everything has to be flat and square.

After all the panels are glued up, they are cut to size, to fit the stiles and rails. I use space balls, so we have a 5/32” clearance all around each panel.

To remove the planer and jointer finish, The glued panels go through the drum sander, 80grit and then 150 grit, which is my final sanding.


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For a wide board, which is sent through twice, the sander needs real careful setup, otherwise there will be marks.

All panels are ready for the shaper raised panel cutter. You can see they are perfectly flat.
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Willemjm

Willem
Corporate Member
For the shaper, I use one pass with a Freeborn cutter and a fast feed on the power feeder. Cherry loves to leave burn marks if fed too slow.

The narrow board ends are done with the pneumatic sled shown earlier. Without a sled that would not be easy.

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All raised panels cut, the cutter leaves a shiny finish.

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A careful test fit shows a snug panel fit in the rails and stiles, no need for a back cutter. These panels will be true “raised” meaning their surface is proud of the stiles and rails.

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Next off to the drawer boxes.

These will be Blum Tandem Bluemotion under mount slides. The dimensions have to be pretty accurate.

I use a worksheet provided by Blum, plug in the opening sizes and their worksheet does the rest, plus plug in all the part numbers.

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Same procedure as before, all the drawer parts are milled perfectly flat and true.

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Notice a few small scraps, which will be used to test jig setup.

If you use a Leigh dovetail jig occasionally, bank on having to read the manual every time!

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I am using a setup on the jig where both pins and tails are cut with one router pass. Two test cuts had me dialed in.

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Willemjm

Willem
Corporate Member
Next we have to cut the grooves for 1/4” finished one side Maple ply.
Ply is never 1/4”, so I use a custom cutter from Freeborn 5.5mm for a snug fit.

Note, dovetails were arranged to enclose the grooves

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The ply bases are cut and the drawers assembled. I use four squares to pull the dovetails tight and end up with a square box. They are clamped for 5 minutes only.
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Finally, we have to cut out the sections for the under mount slides. That is done on the shaper, one cut, reverse the cutter, change rotation direction and a second cut.

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At this point I have around 18 hours into this project, all the parts have been made and we have to start spray finishing and assembly.


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I might have to slow down a little, just got a builders order in for some urgent stuff. Will come back to this later.
 

Skymaster

Jack
Senior User
I stopped making this cut cause for me a real PIA, simply cut the back short to the bottom of the groove,slide bottom in,staple to back pc. wallah done.Wood like to do much more on my shaper but the fence will not go far enough behind the the cutter. I made a router table to do these on
 

Oka

Oka
Corporate Member
Dang ! I thought you were looking for a person to join the Wine Cabinet as a "Cheiof wino"in charge of the commission .........:D

Looks awesome !!!
 

mdbuntyn

Matt
Corporate Member
How do you like the Damstrom clamps? I've seen several reviews complaining about material quality.
 

Willemjm

Willem
Corporate Member
How do you like the Damstrom clamps? I've seen several reviews complaining about material quality.
I think one needs to understand the concept of how they work and what ensures perfect panel alignment. I purchased mine from Rockler, they seem to no longer stock them. I love them, use them for panels and cabinet doors. No issues, easier and faster than anything I have tried before.
 

Willemjm

Willem
Corporate Member
After seal coat, a really light sand with fine sponge and 400 grit paper for the curved areas.

All we want to do is knock down the raised fibers
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Willemjm

Willem
Corporate Member
All the completed parts now have two coats conversion varnish.

Give the raised panels 30 minutes to dry and I will start assembling the doors, drawer fronts and side panels. Then spray the rails and stiles in the assembled pieces.

With solid wood panels there will always be a light line showing if the panels shrink during winter months. Hence spraying them before assembly.

For those who don’t have a spray booth,I spray outside if weather permits. Conversion varnish gasses off with pretty strong potent fumes, so I have a fan underneath a door and two open windows behind it as pictured below during the first 30 minutes.


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