white oak outdoors

[kclark]

What is a good mixture to use on unstained white oak for outdoor protection.

 

[CarvedTones]

I have had success with pure tung oil, but there are some non believers (maybe bad brands?) out there. I like an oil based product so it just has to be clean to reapply. Some of the varnishes have to be stripped and reapplied if they aren't maintained properly.

 

[kclark]

What brand do you use? and how well does it hold up outside?

 

[scsmith42]

Another option is to use the Waterlox marine finish; it really works great.

 

[JWBWW]

Watco Teak Oil... Penofin... even Thompson's and Olympic work well. Film finishes are far more labor intensive and require significantly more attention over time. As Andy says... with an oil all you need to do is be sure it's clean when you start. And even then it's pretty forgiving.

 

[CarvedTones]

What brand do you use? and how well does it hold up outside?

I mix it about half and half with terps or spirits.

Holds up pretty well, I think. I recoat (wipe down with a rag, then wipe on oil; about a 5 minute job) from time to time if something is left out in the weather full time. If left in direct sun, I would do it Spring and Fall. The thing about oils is that "holding up" is always relative. It will bead water for weeks to months and resist soaking to allow rot much longer. Then you just wipe a little more on. The film finishes will seal, but if you ever let it go a little too long between applications; they crack up and have to be removed completely.

 

[Jeff]

I'll be a naysayer in the footsteps of Hank Gilpin.

http://www.finewoodworking.com/Community/ArtistProfile.aspx?id=1098

http://www.finewoodworking.com/subscription/garden-bench-video/

So why finish it? That's your personal choice and the appearance that you're looking for. :dontknow:

 

[kclark]

Where can I find Masters Blend Tung Oil locally?

 

[CarvedTones]

That bottle was from Klingspor's.

 

[CarvedTones]

Most wood tends to go silver/grey even if it will hold up well without finish. I have had an off and on argument with some woodworkers who quote experts who don't think a pure tung oil finish protects well enough (and other experts say it does) and I think one thing that allows such disparity of opinion is that the wood being used/treated is usually WO, RC or Cypress.

 

[Howard Acheson]

Pure tung oil is the same no matter what company packages it. There are lots of faux non-tung oil products sold like Minwax Tung Oil Finish that do not contain any real tung oil. Real tung oil is one of the least protective and least water resistant of any finish according to the Wood Handbook published by the US Forest Service and according to Jeff Jewitt and Bob Flexner two "experts" even the experts agree upon. Linseed oil and paste wax are the only two finishes less protective. I would certainly not recommend it for a long term outdoor use unless you are resigned to reapplication every few months.

Another fact of life is that there is no finish that stands up more than 1-3 years if exposed to continual outdoor condition. Moisture, UV from sunlight and changes in temperature will cause the finish to deteriorate, become cloudy, then crack and peel.

So, the choices are, an oil finish like Pure tung oil, a marine "teak" oil (just linseed oil with small amount of varnish mixed in, or a true marine non-poly varnish. The reason to avoid poly is that the UV in sunlight will quickly attack the polyurethane causing to quickly fail. Go to a real marine store and look for brands like Pettit, Wolsey, Interlux and, best of all, Epifanes. These are expensive finishes but last the longest.

What is the item you are trying to protect? The best protection for something that can be moved is to move it under cover whenever it's not in use. Or, spend the money to have custom covers covers made from an exterior material like Sunbrella.

 

[kclark]

I have 3 big planter boxes with trellises.

 

[CarvedTones]

Pure Tung Oil provides a hard and tough surface finish that is absolutely waterproof; impervious to dust, alcohol, acetone, fruit and vegetable acids; and it doesn't darken with age like Linseed and other vegetable oils.

- Russ Fairfield at http://www.woodcentral.com/russ/finish6.shtml

It must have been really disheartening for the Chinese, who have been using tung oil in ship building and other outdoor woodworking for centuries, to have seen a report from the US government saying it wasn't any good.

Pure tung oil is the same no matter what company packages it.

Not sure I agree with that. There are various grades and it is certainly subject to mishandling and mislabeling, though the latter means it isn't really pure tung oil.

I have personally used tung oil on outdoor furniture, sailboat brightwork and wooden decorative items and been pleased with the results.

 

[Howard Acheson]

The fact that the old time Chinese used tung oil as a finish for centuries is in the same category as the old time Europeans who have used linseed oil for as long. Both were the only thing available at the time and I doubt that the Chinese use it now to any extent. Finishes have moved well beyond either tung oil or linseed oil.

According to the Wood Handbook published by the US Forest Service both tung oil and linseed oil rank at the lowest part of their tests for durable and water resistant treatments. Tung oil is slightly more water resistant than linseed oil so it is the preferred drying oil for use in marine and exterior finishes. As stand alone finish treatments, neither oil is a good finish.

 

[kclark]

The fact that the old time Chinese used tung oil as a finish for centuries is in the same category as the old time Europeans who have used linseed oil for as long. Both were the only thing available at the time and I doubt that the Chinese use it now to any extent. Finishes have moved well beyond either tung oil or linseed oil.

According to the Wood Handbook published by the US Forest Service both tung oil and linseed oil rank at the lowest part of their tests for durable and water resistant treatments. Tung oil is slightly more water resistant than linseed oil so it is the preferred drying oil for use in marine and exterior finishes. As stand alone finish treatments, neither oil is a good finish.

So do you have any recommendations?

 

[BWSmith]

Tongue,fully in cheek......we have some masons,Oak scaffold bds slather'd with "Brixment" that have withstood just about every concievable weather condition.Some going on 20 years old.200 years ago,salt was a popular preservative.....outside work tables and such.


Deffinately not a FWW typical,"finish".....but one that under the right circumstances is pert near indestructable.BW

 

[merrill77]

So do you have any recommendations?

If your goal is a finish that protects the wood from UV (thus preventing it from turning grey) and lasts more than a few years...your best bet is paint. Of course, then it doesn't matter if it turned grey or not, since you won't be seeing it :>

Yeah, I know, seems like a pity to paint white oak, doesn't it?