When is lumber dry enough to move inside?

[Bas]

Google resulted in 39,300 hits, so let me just ask the experts here: I've been air drying some 4/4 walnut for the last 6 months. Moisture content is down to 15%-17% (thanks Wayne for lending me the moisture meter...).

Is that dry enough to bring inside :dontknow:, or should I wait until it reaches around 12%? I'd like the boards to start acclimating, but don't want them to warp/ check this late in the game. :no:

 

[walnutjerry]

Google resulted in 39,300 hits, so let me just ask the experts here: I've been air drying some 4/4 walnut for the last 6 months. Moisture content is down to 15%-17% (thanks Wayne for lending me the moisture meter...).

Is that dry enough to bring inside :dontknow:, or should I wait until it reaches around 12%? I'd like the boards to start acclimating, but don't want them to warp/ check this late in the game. :no:

A good rule of the thumb is air dry 6 months for each inch of thickness, then it is ready for kiln drying. I would think 12 - 15% is dry enough to bring inside for further air drying if you have good air circulation.

Pending what it will be used for and what methods of jointery you plan to use to determin if it is ready to use.

Just my opinion.

Jerry

 

[DaveO]

To quote one of the experts here, Scott Smith....."In terms of degrade that occurs during the drying process, most drying-related degrade occurs when wood dries from green to 35%MC. HOWEVER, the degrade (that has already occured) is not revealed until the wood is below 25%.

Thus, if you see checks, warping, cupping, etc when your wood is around 20%, it isn't due to anything that happened recently, but rather much earlier during the initial stages of the drying process. (On a side note, that's one of the biggest benefits of Kiln dried wood versus air dried wood - the ability to control the rate of moisture loss while the wood is above 35%MC. This is critical for slow drying species such as oak, sycamore, or any 8/4 or thicker wood.)

If you store wood (either horizontal or verticle) and the MC% is below 25% but above 16%, be sure to leave a 3/4" to 1" gap between the boards so that you can get some airflow."

Once the wood has dried down to the level you have acheived bringing it inside shouldn't cause any problems and will help to enhance the final drying steps.


Dave

 

[TracyP]

Hey Bas, I have the answer to your question. You can move it to Salisbury at any time during the drying process!!:rotflm:an it will remain safe and dry!

 

[Bas]

Jerry, Dave - thanks! That's exactly the kind of info I was looking for. Besides, I'm sure those poor boards will be glad to be out of the cold

 

[scsmith42]

Dave - <grin>

Bas, I certainly can't argue with the wisdome espoused by DaveO....

Seriously, considering the average humidity in our area, 15% is about as dry as you'll get outside.

Scott

 

[jeff...]

Hey Bas you made a good choice in your endeavor to air dry lumber - 4/4 Walnut is about as easy as it gets... besides soft maple

Table 1. "Safe rates" for drying 1-inch-thick Wisconsin lumber. (1)

1. Species --- Maximum Rate of MC Loss Per Day
2. Beech --- 4.5%
3. Birch --- 6.1%
4. Hard Maple --- 6.5%
5. Soft Maple ---13.8%
6. Red Oak --- 3.8%
7. White Oak ---2.5%
8. Walnut --- 8.2%

Of course Cheesehead lumber is pretty much the same as NC Lumber only difference is we have a better football team

BTW - did I ever mention how much I dislike black walnut? The stuff is down right nasty.

Linky ---> http://owic.oregonstate.edu/solarkiln/plans.htm

Thanks

 

[Bas]

Actually, I'm drying lots of everything. Some cypress, white oak, poplar, and walnut. It is all looking good, pretty happy with that considering this is the first time I'm drying green lumber. I don't think I want to do anything with the wood just yet. Maybe just look at it. Pretty.....