What's the best way to dispose of finishing products?
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thats a great question!!! Let me go to the Nexus of the INTERNET GOOGLE!!!!
That is a good question.But the way your doing it your just killing out your grandsons lumber.I live out in the country myself.The county I live in "Gaston" has a hazard waste drum at the landfill.A few times a year they let you dump for free.Don't know if they do that in the county you live in but you could call and ask. GOOD LUCK!!
Well, the stuff that you clean your brushes with is either MS, DNA, lacquer thinner, or water. When your done with the cleaning it just has a little bit of the finish left in it. The solvent will still evaporate off and the little bit of finish will dry up and then you can toss it out. I use the small plastic pint or quart containers for paint from Lowe's to hold my finish products while applying them and to also hold the solvent to clean up with. I have never had a finish stick to those containers. Paint, poly, shellac, Waterlox etc. has always dried up into a hard little blob at the bottom and popped right out after a day or two.
Dave
Dave
For DNA, mineral spirits, and other thinners, I put them in mason jars. The solids will settle to the bottom, and I pour off the clear into a clean jar. The mason jars are cheap and the wide mouth ones do pretty well holding brushes. After I get a jar so full of goop, I let it dry out and it is ok to put it in the trash then. If you do go this route, be sure to label the jars so you know what you have in what jar. DAMHIKT.
I used to have a bad habit of buying too much finish thinking it was a better deal since it was cheaper to buy a gallon say than a quart when you figure it say cost per ounce. I have since quit doing that as I end up wasting it and you never seem to get the cans shut right again. My current rule is to only buy as much as I am going to use for my next or next couple of projects.
I used to have a bad habit of buying too much finish thinking it was a better deal since it was cheaper to buy a gallon say than a quart when you figure it say cost per ounce. I have since quit doing that as I end up wasting it and you never seem to get the cans shut right again. My current rule is to only buy as much as I am going to use for my next or next couple of projects.
OR........ Try this, put them all in a large container along with all of your old sanding disks and when you have enough - use the method shown in this tread: http://www.ncwoodworker.net/forums/showthread.php?t=8163
It'll be a one step process - one quick blast and your wood is milled sanded, finished, and if you include some rags - cleaned up as well! :lol: :icon_thum Jim
It'll be a one step process - one quick blast and your wood is milled sanded, finished, and if you include some rags - cleaned up as well! :lol: :icon_thum Jim
Here is some info on brush cleaning that deals with the issue of disposal of mineral spirits. The same process applies to lacquer thinner.
First, the best way to make a brush easier to clean is to dip the bristles into mineral spirits before you start to use the finish. This will prevent finish from getting up into the furrel.
For cleaning, use a big 3# coffee can. I pour in some mineral spirits and work the brush in it until is is as clean as you can get it. Then twirl the brush handle between your hands to remove the cleaner. Then pour the cleaner into a smaller 1# coffee can. Now pour some more mineral spirits into the large can, work the brush, twirl it and pour the cleaner into a second small 1# coffee can. Cover both coffee cans. The solids will settle out and the next time just pour off the liquid from the first can you used into the large can for the first rinse, then pour off the liquid from the second can for the second rinse and so on. When the first rinse can gets too full of solids, pour off the remaining liquid into can #2 and add some kitty litter and discard the coffee can with the solids. Can #2 now becomes can #1 and you start a new can #2 with fresh mineral spirits. This way you never have to discard mineral spirits.
I final clean my brushes with water rinsable brush cleaner--which I save also--followed by liquid dishwashing detergent. Use warm water, not hot. Shake them as dry as possible and brush them back and forth on paper towels, then wrap in brown paper, fold it over t0 shape the chisel end of the bristles and hold with a rubber band.
You should never have to throw out mineral spirits and your brushes will be soft as new when you go to use them again.
If the bristles are stiff when you go to use the brush later, just put the brush into the brush cleaner for a few minutes and it will be soft as new. Shake out the brush cleaner and work the brush in a little mineral spirits to remove the brush cleaner before using the brush.
To dispose of finish, I pour some "kitty litter" into the can and let all the licquid get absorbed. Then you can dispose of it as a normal garbage item. Remember, paint is basically non-toxic when cured.
Alcohol is a natural product and can be disposed of by pouring on the ground. It's not good for grass or plants however. Shellac is also a natural product and can be dumped out.
Finally, rags containing drying oils can be hung up and let dry. Once dry, they are normally considered just normal waste. Putting them in water can be problematic because the chemicals get into the water and now you have a toxic waste problem. Just let the thinners evaporate and you're home free.
First, the best way to make a brush easier to clean is to dip the bristles into mineral spirits before you start to use the finish. This will prevent finish from getting up into the furrel.
For cleaning, use a big 3# coffee can. I pour in some mineral spirits and work the brush in it until is is as clean as you can get it. Then twirl the brush handle between your hands to remove the cleaner. Then pour the cleaner into a smaller 1# coffee can. Now pour some more mineral spirits into the large can, work the brush, twirl it and pour the cleaner into a second small 1# coffee can. Cover both coffee cans. The solids will settle out and the next time just pour off the liquid from the first can you used into the large can for the first rinse, then pour off the liquid from the second can for the second rinse and so on. When the first rinse can gets too full of solids, pour off the remaining liquid into can #2 and add some kitty litter and discard the coffee can with the solids. Can #2 now becomes can #1 and you start a new can #2 with fresh mineral spirits. This way you never have to discard mineral spirits.
I final clean my brushes with water rinsable brush cleaner--which I save also--followed by liquid dishwashing detergent. Use warm water, not hot. Shake them as dry as possible and brush them back and forth on paper towels, then wrap in brown paper, fold it over t0 shape the chisel end of the bristles and hold with a rubber band.
You should never have to throw out mineral spirits and your brushes will be soft as new when you go to use them again.
If the bristles are stiff when you go to use the brush later, just put the brush into the brush cleaner for a few minutes and it will be soft as new. Shake out the brush cleaner and work the brush in a little mineral spirits to remove the brush cleaner before using the brush.
To dispose of finish, I pour some "kitty litter" into the can and let all the licquid get absorbed. Then you can dispose of it as a normal garbage item. Remember, paint is basically non-toxic when cured.
Alcohol is a natural product and can be disposed of by pouring on the ground. It's not good for grass or plants however. Shellac is also a natural product and can be dumped out.
Finally, rags containing drying oils can be hung up and let dry. Once dry, they are normally considered just normal waste. Putting them in water can be problematic because the chemicals get into the water and now you have a toxic waste problem. Just let the thinners evaporate and you're home free.
J
jeff...
when the cans of stuff get low - I try and leave the lid off to let the rest evaporate or dry up then toss in the can in the trash.
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