timber wolf blade marks

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DavidF

New User
David
These are some pics from my new Timber wolf 1/2" blade. It is leaving quite deep grooves in the cut faces both sides. the pics show the two halves glued together. I was going to send them to Suffolk machinery and get their comments, but wondered if this is normal for their Silicon steel blades. If so, I won't be buying any more.
 

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PeteM

Pete
Corporate Member
I have one that does the same thing.
Thought I just had a bad one :eusa_thin

pete
 

DavidF

New User
David
Uhm interesting. I have sent the pics to Suffolk to see what they say. It cuts like the perverbial knife through butter, but needs a lot of cleaning up afterwards.
 

Alan in Little Washington

Alan Schaffter
Corporate Member
I used my 3/4" Timberwolf for the first time yesterday to resaw some oak; surface was pretty much the same as yours.

I was only resawing some 5" wide stuff and it was a chore for my 14" Delta. I think I'm going to put a bigger motor on it.
 

DavidF

New User
David
Alan in Little Washington said:
I used my 3/4" Timberwolf for the first time yesterday to resaw some oak; surface was pretty much the same as yours.

I was only resawing some 5" wide stuff and it was a chore for my 14" Delta. I think I'm going to put a bigger motor on it.

Up at Bernhards at the w/e he had just fitted a 1" TC BS blade from Suffolk and you would think we had resawed with a Table saw the finish was perfect. But then he a stonking great Felder BS:jealous:
 

woodguy1975

New User
John
That is pretty well on par for a 14" resaw cut there Dave. I can put my carbide blade in my MM or Meber and get a cut like a TS, but most 1/2" blade resawing looks pretty simliar to what you have. BTW, Lenox Bimetal blades last much longer and cut better in my opinion. I only use Bimetal and carbide.

I believe it is a result of the beam deflection of the blade. The wider blades have more beam strength and more tension so they deflect less giving a better cut.

For me this kind of cut is perfectly fine. I always run them through the planer or drum sander afterwards anyways.
 

DavidF

New User
David
Understood WG, could be I'm asking a bit much. This is the first new blade I've bought in a while so perhaps my old ones were acting as scrapers!
 

NZAPP1

New User
Nick
Dave I had the same problem and did some checking and found this. It cuts much smother after dressing the blade.


"
Question
I just purchased a 14" Powermatic band saw (1 1/2 HP). Its current cutting quality is not very good. It is leaving a cut surface riddled with thin vertical ridges one after another about 1/32" or so apart. Part of the problem may be that I am currently using the inexpensive stamped 3/8" blade that came with the machine. I am worried, however, that the problem may also relate to the relatively low tension that the Powermatic is rated for (9,600 psi). I've cranked the tension spring as far as it will go to increase tension but it didn't help. Does anyone have any ideas? By the way, I am cutting hardwood. "



"From contributor B:
The usual cause of saw marks is that some teeth have more "set" than others. This can be rectified to some extent by carefully side dressing the teeth while it is running by lightly applying a grinding stone to each side of the blade. Make sure your saw guides are correctly adjusted to eliminate any wavering of the blade or the exercise will be pointless. Large bandmills for cutting logs sometimes have a device fitted to the up-running side of the blade to do this. "
 

junquecol

Bruce
Senior User
Alan in Little Washington said:
I used my 3/4" Timberwolf for the first time yesterday to resaw some oak; surface was pretty much the same as yours.

I was only resawing some 5" wide stuff and it was a chore for my 14" Delta. I think I'm going to put a bigger motor on it.
If you have open stand Delta, why not add a second motor to existing one, kinda like the railroads do? It can be either a NEMA 48 or 56 frame motor, just as long as it is same RPM and same rotation direction. It could be sleeve, or ball bearing, capicator start or not-Doesn't matter.
 

NCPete

New User
Pete Davio
junquecol said:
If you have open stand Delta, why not add a second motor to existing one, kinda like the railroads do? It can be either a NEMA 48 or 56 frame motor, just as long as it is same RPM and same rotation direction. It could be sleeve, or ball bearing, capicator start or not-Doesn't matter.

Curious as to how that would work.
 

DavidF

New User
David
NZAPP1 said:
Dave I had the same problem and did some checking and found this. It cuts much smother after dressing the blade.


"
Question
I just purchased a 14" Powermatic band saw (1 1/2 HP). Its current cutting quality is not very good. It is leaving a cut surface riddled with thin vertical ridges one after another about 1/32" or so apart. Part of the problem may be that I am currently using the inexpensive stamped 3/8" blade that came with the machine. I am worried, however, that the problem may also relate to the relatively low tension that the Powermatic is rated for (9,600 psi). I've cranked the tension spring as far as it will go to increase tension but it didn't help. Does anyone have any ideas? By the way, I am cutting hardwood. "



"From contributor B:
The usual cause of saw marks is that some teeth have more "set" than others. This can be rectified to some extent by carefully side dressing the teeth while it is running by lightly applying a grinding stone to each side of the blade. Make sure your saw guides are correctly adjusted to eliminate any wavering of the blade or the exercise will be pointless. Large bandmills for cutting logs sometimes have a device fitted to the up-running side of the blade to do this. "

I'll try it tonight and let you know. Thanks for checking into it for me.
 

Ken Massingale

New User
Ken
David,
When I get those 'waves', it's always at the point where I change the feet rate, usually when I have to change the position of my hands as the stock is fed. I 'think' it is due to relaxing the pressure on the blade. When I can feed a board through at a constant rate, I get none, or very little of the wavey surface.
Having said that, I have changed from low tension TW blades for resawing. I started using Woodslicer blades from Highland Hardware and set the tension per HW's specs to 3/4" for the 1/2" Woodslicer ($30) blade. Much better results than with the TW.
Now Iturra is selling the same blade as the Woodslicer, Blade Runner they call it, for $10 less, and they just introduced a 5/8" blade.
ken
 

DavidF

New User
David
Thanks Ken, The marks I was getting were along the whole cut, but I know what you mean about the other marks. I did run a diamond stone gently against the both sides of the blade while it was running and also bought the guides in a little close and that has improved the look of the cut considerably.
 

Grgramps

New User
Roy Hatch
This whole thing about band saws, blades and set up is interesting in that the combinations might nearly equal the stars in the universe. And I know as little as the next guy, but I did get some interesting advice from Suffolk Machinery that went against what I previously thought was good practice.

That regards the tensioning of Timberwolf blades. Art at Suffolk advised that when resawing with Delta, Jet or the other American brand saws that the "flutter method" of tensioning should be ignored and tension should be set using the scale on the saw. I questioned this since this is not what Suffolk prints in their literature. He explained that Suffolk had this in their earlier instructions, but received complaints from manufacturers of saws made in Asia. (European saws were not mentioned.) So, to please everybody, and to not appear as discriminating, that was taken out and the flutter test is recommended.

With my next resaw I applied tension using the scale, and sure enough, I got a superior cut. By the way, I am using a Delta 14" and was told that the half inch blade is the widest blade that can be tensioned properly (using the scale) with this saw. Apparently the manufacturers are a bit optimistic showing 3/4" on the scale since the frame of the saw may not be stout enough to handle the stress that would be encountered.

I know this can be a controversial subject and as stated in the first paragraph, I don't claim to be an expert. I won't be offended if you see this as "bull feathers" and I look forward to hearing ideas from others. We learn by listening, observing and experimenting.

I will be off line for awhile to vacuum and blow out the dust that has accumulated in my computer. Perhaps that's why this corner of the room stays so clean?

Roy
 

DavidF

New User
David
Unfortuately my saw does not have any sort of guage so it's just trial and error so I was more than happy to use the "flutter" method - I hope it puts on enough tension for re-sawing on my saw
 
T

toolferone

If you have open stand Delta, why not add a second motor to existing one, kinda like the railroads do? It can be either a NEMA 48 or 56 frame motor, just as long as it is same RPM and same rotation direction. It could be sleeve, or ball bearing, capicator start or not-Doesn't matter.

NCPete said:
Curious as to how that would work.

Pete, I was talking to Bruce about this the other day, and he explained why this works. Well this morning as I am reading your post it dawns on me why it works. Think about either trains or horse and wagon pulling. To increase the amount of pulling power they just hook up more engines or horses. This just my .02 cents worth of understanding and explaining.
 
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