SYP and white pine T&G finishing suggestions....

[redhawknc1]

Well, got my shop wired finally. At least the main panel. Have outlets for my 8" 220V PJ882 jointer on a separate circuit. Outlet for my 5hp PM209 installed on a separate 30amp. A separate 20 amp circuit for 110V. Will run extra outlets as I remodel.
Now, starting to remodel (as a shop project). Have a 3 car garage. House is 30+ years old. The old dark paneling has to come down. Toying with using T&G Pine like you see in a lot of log cabins. Gotta check the total cost versus other choices though. Wanna keep an old warm look.
Have a center post in the center of the 2 bay side. The other bay is separated by a wall to make another room. Started with covering the center pole with 1X6" SYP with walnut plugs covering the screw holes. Wanna keep the wood clear, yet protected. Purchased a Minwax Waterbased Polyurethane Clear Gloss. Will this be a good choice. Was wanting to put about 3 coats on tomorrow. Should I look at other choices. Want something durable without any color to keep the room as light as possable. What is the normal finish on the walls inside the cabins I've been in?

 

[JimmyC]

Wayne,

The water based poly should work fine for what you want, it won't yellow or darken, it dries really fast, and best of all there is no lingering smell.

 

[Kicbak]

I did almost my entire A-Frame's roof in SYP. I wanted it a little bit more yellow so I stained it. I started with poly but wanted to to "age" some. I switched over to spar urethane. I would do to coats with the first being put on heavy. I knocked down any bubbles with scotch brite and did a second coat light to smooth everything out. It did take 1 full day per batch to coat. I would wake up early and do the first coat then sand and do the second when I got home from work.

Results

Wes

 

[redhawknc1]

I like that look! Almost bought the spar urethane!

 

[Travis Porter]

I expect a lot of them are done with what you have listed, and a lot are done with linseed oil or tung oil. The oils are easy to put on, but take a while to fully cure and get the smell out.

The spar varnishes and regular polys will do well, but the negatives are they take a long time to dry and have a lot of smell. They do tend to yellow a bit as well over time.

The waterbased poly will work and will be crystal clear, but it is going to raise the grain and you will need to knock it down with 220, 320, or 400 after your first coat cures in an hour or two. The coats on wb are much thinner (at least to me) than oil based, but the dry time and ease of clean up are very nice. I normally try to put 4 or 5 coats of wb on compared to 2 coats of oil based poly/varnish.

All in all it is a toss up in my opinion. What is most important to have in a finish compared to what you don't want to deal with.

 

[redhawknc1]

Update! just finished the 4th coat and very pleased! Just the look I was after! Will put 2 more onas it dries! I could see my whole shop done in T&G SYP..............:gar-Bi

 

[Andy Casiello]

I did almost my entire A-Frame's roof in SYP. I wanted it a little bit more yellow so I stained it. I started with poly but wanted to to "age" some. I switched over to spar urethane. I would do to coats with the first being put on heavy. I knocked down any bubbles with scotch brite and did a second coat light to smooth everything out. It did take 1 full day per batch to coat. I would wake up early and do the first coat then sand and do the second when I got home from work.

Results

Wes

That looks great! I'd like to do the same thing in my 1916 house in Norfolk. It's not an A-frame, it's a four square. Full attic with slanted walls. Where did you get the SYP T&G slats? Make them or buy them? I'm trying to think of a way to use SYP from the lumber yard, slice it thin, and through the router table for T&G. I'd love to hear your process.

Thanks,

Andy

 

[Kicbak]

I ended up getting them from a lumber company. I had some many just to finish that it was hard to also make the T&G myself. I think 6" widths are standard but I wanted wider 8" so I had to special order.

Wes

 

[Andy Casiello]

I ended up getting them from a lumber company. I had some many just to finish that it was hard to also make the T&G myself. I think 6" widths are standard but I wanted wider 8" so I had to special order.

Wes

Thanks for the info, Wes. I certainly understand that it would be difficult to mill all of that in a home shop. I use my attic as an office and recording studio. Timing would not be critical so I could put the walls up over a one year period or more if necessary. I'd probably be darn sick of it well before then, so probably better to order the wood pre-milled. Do you recall the lumber company you bought from? Thanks.

Andy