Stump pics

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Dragon

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David
Some of you asked for pics of my work, well........
Just posted three pics of one of the stumps I'm working on. When finished, it will be the base for a coffee table. There are two end tables in the works also from the same tree but vastly different in design and style. I'll try to post pics of them when they are ready for public viewing. The pics are viewable in my gallery. Look under my username..........





 
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TracyP

Administrator , Forum Moderator
Tracy
Hope you did not mind, I added your pics to the post, btw they are awesome
 
J

jeff...

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I like that :icon_thum
 

Dragon

New User
David
That is cool. What tools did you use to do that?

Let's see........Husqvarna (sp) chain saw, hammer and chisel to peel bark, and so far, a very old Craftsman 3" belt sander. Oh yeah, and a heck of a lot of elbow grease to move it around. When first cut, I'd estimate the weight at about 300+ lbs. Currently it weighs about 100 give or take a few. (I tip the scales at around 150 so yeah, it takes all I got and then some assistance from the come-along to get things moving.)
 

flatheadfisher

New User
Michael
Gees! That will be a sturdy base! I guess the top will be glass so you can see all the detail inside? How will you attach it. Sorry for the 20 question drill, I just think it is really cool!
 

DaveO

New User
DaveO
Wow that isn't what I expected from "stump art". I really like it :icon_thum:icon_thum. So you hollow out a stump :eek::eek: We really need more details on how you do that.

Dave:)
 

Dragon

New User
David
PChristy.......it's Ambrosia Maple.
flatheadfisher......yeah, I'm planning on putting a glass top on it but haven't decided yet on whether to have it cut to fit inside, outside, or flush-cut inside with the wood as a border/frame. Either way, it could get expensive on the glass and I may even decide on going with Lexan or something to eliminate the breaking hazard.

I'm hopeful to have this piece and the two end tables finished up by the end of winter but it may well into summer before they are all dried and stabilized enough to allow me to do the final finish work. One of the end tables that goes with this is cut from where the main trunk split into three seperate branches. The crotch grain there is just amazing in the figuring and I'll try to get some pics of that one uploaded soon.

Thanks for all the good words on my work. Don't have any fancy tooling or even a shop to work in right now but I doo's my best wit' what I got.
 

Dragon

New User
David
Wow that isn't what I expected from "stump art". I really like it :icon_thum:icon_thum. So you hollow out a stump :eek::eek: We really need more details on how you do that.

Dave:)

Well, lemmie see.......first you cut yerself a stump. Then, ya fill up the chainsaw and get set t' cuttin' and after ya digs yerself outt'n all the dust and chips ya can see ther's a hole in it whur th' wodd usta' be.

Seriously, fire up the chainsaw and get t' sawin' and sawin' and grinding and eventually you got yourself a hollowed out stump. Then comes the fun part of peeling bark and sanding and sanding and sanding and sand some more....well, you get the idea. Every now and then you'll luck up on a hollowed tree and 80% of the work is already done by Mother Nature.

I've got one hollow Hickory trunk section that I made back in '95 and it's been used as a dining table and now it serves as the base for our computer desk. It stands 32" tall and is about 20" or so in diameter. Looks like it used to be the Keebler tree where they made the cookies.:wsmile:

I've seen some of these things sell for thousands of dollars once finished and with the work and time involved, I can understand the high price tag. I'm hoping to maybe sell some in the future and use the proceeds to buy some tools to make my life easier. Right now, it's all pretty much by hand and sore muscles.
 

DaveO

New User
DaveO
So you're plunge cutting with the tip of the bar into the middle of the stump. How much can you remove at a time? Once you've gotten the bulk of the waste removed what do you use to define the contours so that they follow the outside profile so well?

Dave:)
 

Trent Mason

New User
Trent Mason
That is wicked cool! :eek: From your description it sounds like a TON of work. I'm also interested to know how you get the inside edge to match the contours of the outside. Please don't say the "s word" (sanding) :rotflm:. :no::swoon:
 

stave

New User
stave
Nice job on the stump. Got a few tips and comments for you. Here in Asheville, I have had quite a few pieces of 1/4" glass custom cut to odd shapes, some by the factory and some by the local glass company. The price really is not bad and the lexan will cost about the same not to mention it will start to scratch the first tiem you clean it. Breakage on 1/4" glass on such a small area is not really a concern, the glass is surprisingly strong. You can also get custom edge polishing for the clear green look you usually see on table glass or grind it yourself which leaves a frosted look.
If using stumps is something you plan on doing reguarly then try to cut the wood in the spring when the sap is rising...the bark will peel really easy. Winter cuts cause the bark to stick like it is glued on.
A right angle grinder with sanding discs (Klingspor) works really well for what you are doing. Klingspor sells some really nice wheels. For the outside to keep the shapes without sanding any of the natural form away there are brushes made for log homes that work well. They are pricey but last a long time and also require a 6" to 8" grinder or polisher. They are called Osborn brushes and come in either round (med cut) or square (coarse cut) bristles with 80 to 60 grit. They really are not aggressive as they sound. Cost about $75 each.
The table is looking nice, look forward to seeing the finished piece.

Stave
 

jerrye

New User
Jerry
You can also get custom edge polishing for the clear green look you usually see on table glass or grind it yourself which leaves a frosted look.Stave
Shhh, don't tell, but the "Green" edge is done by sanding over the edge to a round profile with a medium grit, say 150, and then wiping the edge with an oily rag, followed by removing the surplus by wiping with a clean dry rag. My dad worked as a glazier for 38 years, and he taught me that. He said "This covers a multitude of sins in the edges of a pane". BTW, his preference was 10W30, brand didn't matter.:rotflm: HTH
 

rbdoby

New User
Rick
I have an end table I made from a ERC stump about 8 years ago. It's about 20 inches across. The top is 1/4" glass with a 3" overhang matching the contour of the stump. The glass has held up very well. I didn't take the time to hollow the stump because cedar has so many inclusions I was afraid it would split.

I'm impressed with your work. Lots of patience, sweat and elbow grease. Let us know how finish the top.
 

Outa Square

New User
Al
neat work... I hope the loml doesn't see that you do that with out a shop. Because i have convinced her that all you can do with out a shop is collect tools and wood:gar-Bi

hey if you come across any cookie baking elfs share the cookies and the elfs:rotflm:
 

CarvedTones

Board of Directors, Vice President
Andy
Very nice! Hollowing stumps/logs that can't be turned is hard work!

Log%20Drums%20Taiko%20Shell%20in%20Bush%20Marcus%20Hollowing.jpg


No, that's not me. :)
 
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