Stacked Dada Blade - Assembly Tips

[quid_non]

Hi All -
Anyone got tips/suggestions on how they assemble their stacked dado blade on their table saw? I was cutting some 3/4" dado's this weekend and seems like it took forever to get all the cutters (4 of 'em) on, alligned and ready to go. Is is critical that all cutters are 90 degrees apart for flat cuts?
Any help appreciated!
Thanks
Wayne

 

[NCPete]

I don't think it's critical, I just try to keep the cutters from 'interfering' with each other.

 

[WoodWrangler]

I just slapped my new SD508 set on the arbor making sure not to smack the teeth together ... and it was set. Perfectly flat dados in a matter of minutes!

 

[NCPete]

I just slapped my new SD508 set on the arbor making sure not to smack the teeth together ... and it was set. Perfectly flat dados in a matter of minutes!

except for that first time, when they blades kind of fight going on the arbor.... :-D

 

[toolferone]

I don't think it's critical, I just try to keep the cutters from 'interfering' with each other.

I second this! No carbide to carbide contact and you will be fine.

 

[DaveO]

Look at the teeth angle on the outer blades, some sets have a right and left side outer blade with a higher tooth angle on the outside of the blade to act as a scoring cutter. I have put my set together backwards and got less than satisfactory cuts :BangHead:
Dave

 

[NCPete]

I did the same thing, I have also put chippers in backwards, too, and was wondering why I was getting a little bit of a 'tongue' in each of my dado's:eusa_doh:

 

[McRabbet]

I use a Freud SD-508 dado set as well and the outer blades are clearly marked -- see this picture.

I always unplug my saw first, then after removing the throat plate, saw blade and stabilizer, I insure that the arbor threads and base plate are clean of sawdust. Next, I pull the outer plates and chippers I need, plus any shims needed to achieve the desired width of cut (I use a dial caliper on the piece going into the dado and get as close as I can +.004"). I assemble the first outer plate, then chippers (roughly at 45 degrees like the picture; just not "tooth-to-tooth"), then shims, then the outer plate, washer and arbor nut. I do align the outer plate teeth so I can measure the setup width -- if incorrect, I change the shims and re-tighten. I replace the throat plate, check rotation and re-plug the saw. Once I cut a satisfactory test cut in scrap, I write down the setup for that batch of stock so I can reset the blades for a repeat use with that stock.

Rob

 

[quid_non]

Thanks for all the help -looks like I'm spending too much time worrying about the orientation!

Thanks
Wayne

 

[sapwood]

Thanks for all the help -looks like I'm spending too much time worrying about the orientation!

Thanks
Wayne

Wayne,
I did the same thing on my first setup. Read the instructions and felt like I needed two more hands to hold it together and set chipper 90º apart. Then realized it wasn't possible :lol: As others stated, just don't let the carbide touch.

Roger

 

[tom hintz]

I have story on the basics of setting up and using a stacked dado at the link below.
As mentioned, it is important that the teeth do not touch each other. Contact between the carbide teeth can cause a failure (dangerous) plus since most dado sets are designed so the teeth overlap to some extent to cut a clean bottom, that contact also can hold the plates out of alignment with each other.

Using Stacked Dado Blades - NewWoodworker.com LLC

Hi All -
Anyone got tips/suggestions on how they assemble their stacked dado blade on their table saw? I was cutting some 3/4" dado's this weekend and seems like it took forever to get all the cutters (4 of 'em) on, alligned and ready to go. Is is critical that all cutters are 90 degrees apart for flat cuts?
Any help appreciated!
Thanks
Wayne