Spindle Sander is home

[Alan in Little Washington]

I picked up the new (old) spindle sander I won on Ebay, in Wilmington on Tuesday, but since it has been raining here ever since, it sat in my garage for the last three days. I finally hoisted it up to my shop earlier this evening.

The machine is a Max OVS-1 oscillating spindle sander. The serial number is VS2908 which I believe makes it a 1980 or newer machine. It has a 24" x 24" cast iron table, rack and pinion tilt mechanism, integral spindle and insert rack, a 1725 RPM 1 hp motor, 75 oscillations per min. , a 1-1/2" stroke, and weighs 350 lbs.

It looks mechanically sound and should clean up really well. The motor is three phase. I didn't get around to testing it with my VFD, but I turned the spindle by hand- it turned freely and oscillated smoothly. I have a spare single phase motor, so don't know if I will use that or run the supplied motor with the VFD.

The top is covered with light rust, but that should come off with minimal effort so it should look like the little test strip I cleaned. The pedestal is covered with grease and dirt, but the paint underneath looks good. I haven't decided if I will paint it gray to match most of my other tools. It is missing the switch with is of minor concern.

It came with only 1 insert plate and the VSDC1 dust system adapter- but that looks very inadequate. I got almost the full 10 spindle set- 4", 3", 2", 1.5", and 1" rubber sleeved spindles and 3/4", 5/8", 3/8", 1/4" steel shaft spindles. I am missing just the 1/2" one. It also came with a 4" inflatable bladder spindle though I don't know yet if it will hold air. There is also a smaller 2" bladder spindle body but it doesn't have the rubber bladder.

The only problem- the 3/4" spindle is stuck in the chuck. I suspect the Morse taper and/or the threaded section below that are rusted fast in the chuck. I sprayed WD-40 on it and applied some serious torque with some big wrenches, but couldn't break it loose. I have another thread penetrant I'll apply and let sit overnight before I try again. Anyone have any other suggestions?

The bottom line, if I can remove the spindle, I think this classifies as a gloat- an oldie but goody, top-of-the-line spindle sander for which I paid about 1/10 the price of a new one! :eusa_danc:eusa_danc:eusa_danc:eusa_danc

 

[PChristy]

Nice score Alan - looking forward to seeing it after you get it cleaned up = I have had success with Liquid Wrench in the past when I worked in the factory = hope you can get it out:icon_thum

 

[Sully]

Chuck the end of the spindle in a cordless drill and slowly turn it while applying some heat to the chuck. Nice looking machine.

 

[walnutjerry]

Alan-------My son is a machinist and one of the guys he worked with says iodine works real good to loosen rusted stuff. Never tried it myself but you may want to-------just to see if it works if nothing else.

Jerry

 

[Alan in Little Washington]

Someone suggested PB Blaster or Bi-tron. Anyone try those?

Here is a drawing of the spindle. As mentioned above, I suspect both the lower threaded section and the taper just above it are rusted in the matching socket.

 

[Tarhead]

PB Blaster plus time to soak is a good plan. If that fails, hit it with a heat gun for a minute to expand the nut. If that fails you have to invoke Article 118.97B of the Uniform Code of Military Maintenance. Roughly paraphrased from my 1st Armored Division experience 36 years ago:
"Get a bigger wrench and hammer."(or as we referred to them as BFW's or BFH's):rotflm:
My experience with the Jet OSS spindles is the same WRT sticking so if you can figure out a cure for this problem I'm sure a lot of folks will be happy.

 

[mshel]

Alan,

That bladder looks like the one I have on my Woodtek sander. I had to replace it when I bought it but I don't remember the price.

http://woodworker.com/drum-and-brus...u-120-029.asp?search=flap sander&searchmode=2

Mike

 

[svtumbleweed]

Oil and time worked for me. I dropped my bicycle into salt water in Germany. It was several weeks before I tried to adjust the height of the seat. The stainless steel shaft was frozen in the aluminum tube. It resisted all my efforts to free it. I took it to a German bicycle shop and they got it free in about a week. Oil and time was the answer to my question as to how. I suggest you keep it soaking in diesel fuel for about a week or so and see if it does not come free.
Tex

 

[Mike Davis]

I read an article a couple weeks ago about a solution that works better than any rust buster on the market.

It is half automatic transmission fluid and half acetone.

Supposed to work 5 times better than Liquid Wrench.

 

[McRabbet]

My, that sounds like an interesting cocktail! Sorta like Sloe Gin KaBoom! Not to be used with an open flame, Alan!

 

[Tarhead]

PB Blaster smells like AT fluid and Naptha.

 

[Skymaster]

PB is good stuff, IMHO I think way better than WD40. HEAT will help also. This is NOT meant to offend,but are you sure it doesnt have left hand threads?:icon_scra

 

[NCTurner]

Nice looking sander, man I am Green with envy. I would suggest shoot Scott Smith a PM on a penatrant, he has some stuff that is supposed to be awesome. On the flip side my company makes some awesome stuff too, let me know if you need a can I'll get you hooked up all the way!

 

[Alan in Little Washington]

Well, after using multiple penetrants, an impact wrench on stop nuts jammed together at the top of the spindle, a humongous pipe wrench with a long handle extension, and a lot of pulling and grunting . . . . IT STILL DID NOT BUDGE! :cry_smile:cry_smile:cry_smile:cry_smile

I read about a few folks with similar problems over on OWWM, most were either able to break the spindle free or just gave up and are swapping the rubber sleeves. Fortunately, one guy posted some great pics and the instructions how he disassembled his OSS. I plan to do the same and take it to a machine shop where they should be able to properly apply heat and the right amount of force to remove the spindle. Stay tuned . . . .

By the way, I just saw three units like mine on Ebay- the starting bids were $1,100, $1,175, and $1,999 !! Even if the machine shop charges me a little, I will still have a great deal!

 

[Bas]

Simple solution - use a dedicated machine for each spindle size. You never have to change spindles again! :rolf:
Nice score there Alan.

 

[Travis Porter]

Congrats!!! Looks like it will be a sweet machine when you get it tuned up!

 

[Alan in Little Washington]

Congrats!!! Looks like it will be a sweet machine when you get it tuned up!

Aw, come on Travis, put back what you originally wrote. :rotflm:

Update. Spindle still seized, but I easily got the machine almost apart. I only stopped to veg on the sofa. Now I don't need to lug 350 lb to the machine shop. Inside is a incredibly well made, build like a tank to last forever, yet amazingly simple mechanism. Pics tomorrow.

 

[Travis Porter]

Aw, come on Travis, put back what you originally wrote. :rotflm:

Update. Spindle still seized, but I easily got the machine almost apart. I only stopped to veg on the sofa. Now I don't need to lug 350 lb to the machine shop. Inside is a incredibly well made, build like a tank to last forever, yet amazingly simple mechanism. Pics tomorrow.

OK, I will.:gar-Bi

I can't believe Alan the mechanical nutcase let a little bitty seized bolt whip him and have to take it to a machine shop. What is the world coming to?????:rotflm:

 

[CrealBilly]

Alan I don't know if you tried diesel fuel, but it works wonders on frozen up rusted stuff. The smell lingers for a long long time so be careful and don't spill any or you'll regret it later.

 

[Alan in Little Washington]

I got everything stripped almost all the way down so what I take it to a machine shop will be lighter and smaller. I did not pull the bearings so did not remove the main spindle from the housing. I'll let the machine shop do that with a gear puller. They should be better able to clamp the main spindle, have something better than a propane torch to heat the socket end, and have something better than a pipe wrench to grip, turn, and free up the frozen spindle shank. I hope they are honest when they tell me they can do it so the only thing that will have been damaged in this entire process is the lower end of the spindle drum shank where I gripped it with a pipe wrench. I should be able to turn or file that down so a sleeve can still be used on that spindle shank.

Here is a pic of the main spindle housing, bearing, main spindle, and spindle socket. The spindle shanks slip into the socket hole at the end of the main spindle. Both have #2 Morse tapers. They are pulled together by mating threads at the tip of the spindle shank (see my pic of the spindles) and at the bottom of the spindle socket.

Mine should clean up like this too.