Shed Expansion Project

[Tarhead]

A few months back I posted a question about drying fresh cut pine I got from Randy (woodbutcher). I took the stack/sticker/ratchet strap and spray with Timbor (Borate insect treatment) advice. It was ~12% moisture level the last time I checked it. The lumber is full 2" X 4" and 2" X 6" and dryed very straight. Almost didn't want to use some of the sticks as they were quartersawn and had no knots! Amid rain, thunder, tornado warnings, hail, high winds and a trip to Kyle's here's what I've accomplished since Thursday evening:






This 5.5 X 12 ft expansion will house my wood collection and eventually house my cyclone and compressor when I move the woodshop out of the garage.

Here's what happens when you push the back of a Hitachi gas powered nail gun inside of a 16" stud cavity with your left hand and fire it...ouch:



Will be siding, hanging rafters, purlins and putting on an Ondura corrugated roof when I get back from Denvernashvegas.

 

[WoodWrangler]

Looking good, Mark. Sorry about the thumb ... ouch!

 

[DaveO]

I thought the whole reason to use a nail gun was so you didn't hit your thumb/finger with a hammer :eusa_doh::eusa_doh::eusa_doh:

Dave

 

[MikeH]

I thought the whole reason to use a nail gun was so you didn't hit your thumb/finger with a hammer :eusa_doh::eusa_doh::eusa_doh:

Dave

Yeah really. It takes a real woodworker to hit his thumb with a nail gun! :rotflm:

 

[Truefire]

Thats cool, drying your own lumber for a project you building yourself... I know its just a good feeling only another woodyer understands... Great job.
Neat principle as well to stuff a little more tools inside or should i say your wives yard sale boxes. Ha ha ha :rotflm:

 

[Glennbear]

Woodworkers are a hardy breed who readily overcome weather conditions with sheer determination :gar-Bi I segregated my DC and compressor fom the rest of the shop and I am thankful I did, Friday I was using my air hogging pneumatic rachet gun and I think the thrumming from the compressor would have made me bonkers if it was in the main room :wsmile:

 

[sapwood]

Mark,
I like it . . . the shed, not the thumb!
I've wanted to make a similar addition. Your main building is T1-11, right?
How will you "flash" the roof since the siding isn't flat????
The eaves on mine only extend about 2" past building :tongue2:

Roger

 

[PurpleThumb]

Here's what happens when you push the back of a Hitachi gas powered nail gun inside of a 16" stud cavity with your left hand and fire it...ouch:



Now you know why my screen name is Purple Thumb!!!

 

[Mike Davis]

Roger,

You can cut a line with your skillsaw and set the flashing in the groove. Fill with clear silicone first and run a bead after it's nailed in place.

Use a 2x4 to guide the saw so the groove is straight.

 

[Tarhead]

Roger,
The siding is LP Smartsiding. Kinda like T-111 but lighter and preprimed. If you look at the top photo you'll see a joint where 2 pieces of siding meet at a vinyl 'Z' channel ~8" above the stud wall. I'll zip my circular saw through the channel and slide a piece of flashing up in the joint and apply a healthy serving of silicone above and below. Then my roofing will butt up against the main shed siding under the flashing. My eave on the main shed is a 2X4.

 

[sapwood]

Thanks Mike and Mark :notworthy:

Roger

 

[meika123]

Good looking job, Mark.
This discussion started me to wondering. I recently built my closet to house my Cyclone. It is large enough to house my air compressor as well-as many of you have suggested.
My question is: how do you guys run your air inside the shop? Are you using the black iron pipe, or what. Just curious.

 

[Tarhead]

I'm using an HF blue air hose connected to my compressor for air. Nothing fancy.:embaresse

 

[meika123]

But my closet is built on to my shop, with no access to the shop. Just a door to enter the closet from the outside. What do I do in that case-just run a rigid pipe thru the wall with an air hose connection added to it?

 

[NCPete]

Dave, I think I have seen plans for plumbing air with pvc??? I KNOW I have seen some for copper, but galvanized pipe would also work, just make sure to have driers in line between the pipe and the final line to the tool.

 

[Gotcha6]

I asked a plumber working on my project the other day about PEX pipe for air. He said it's rated for 150# of pressure and is less susceptible to shattering than PVC if it is struck. We use it in dental upfit applications below slabs all the time. I'll be using it instead of black iron when I pipe my shop. He says the black iron is more susceptible to moisture buildup too. Copper pipe has become so costly that it is out of the question although I'm capable of soldering and even threading the iron pipe if needed.

 

[Tarhead]

This is a ways off but here's my plan:

I will cut a ~6.5" hole into the extension from the shed and run the compressor hose along side the 6" D/C pipe. The hole will be lined w/a soft foam grommet (foam pipe wrap cut lengthwise). Filtered make-up air for the D/C will come back into the shop through a few 16" wide HVAC return grates installed between the shed and an airtight cabinet housing the Cyclone exhaust filter.

Hopefully my daughter's bid on a house in Louisana will go through next week and I can load up the truck with all of her stuff in "Dad's Free Storage Place":wwink: when we go down there in a month. Then I will stimulate the economy by calling an electrician and buying some insulation.

 

[meika123]

Right you are, Dennis.
I have Rental property and replace all my piping with Pex whenever I have to do a re-do. Not only that, it is much easier to use, and a lot faster. Also if it freezes, it won't expand like most of the other piping. I think a piece of Pex inside a 3/4" PVC might be a workable situation.
Thanks guys

 

[Glennbear]

I do not know about PEX but I would stongly recommend steering clear of PVC. If struck or it fails a blizzard of razor sharp shards would follow :no: I will be taking the iron pipe route when I pipe the shop since I am fortunate enough to have a threader. Our download library has a good article on how to air plumb a shop.