Selling Pens

[ChrisMathes]

Hey All,
I know some of you are selling pens and I was curious as to how it is going.

I ended up picking up a mini-lathe a couple weeks ago and have been practicing a little. I'm thinking about trying to sell a few..to see if there's any local interest...and to help support this tool collection I've apparently started. (My wife told me that I wasn't allowed to take a pen class b/c I would end up buying a lathe...guess what...I took the class...hmmm :eusa_thin ... she's definately got me figured out)

Mainly, I'm interested in what you have determined to be fair pricing..and how you came to that. Also..any styles/wood/etc that you have seen to be a consistently good combination/seller.

Thanks for your help...
Chris

 

[NCPete]

I'll second that interest, tho' I have yet to take a pen class or buy a lathe.

 

[Tarhead]

Chris,
You may want to check out the guys selling hand turned pens and bowls at the Cabarrus County farmer's market (Winecoff School Rd. on Saturday mornings; Harrisburg at the old railroad station on Robinson Church Rd on Monday evenings) to get a local perpective. They've been there all season and set up their lathes, demo and seem to be moving their inventory.
Mark

 

[mlcannon]

Chris,

I have been making and selling these for about 6 months now. I would say that so far most of what I have sold have been to co-workers and anyone who notices me using a nice pen that I have made. Always keep a nice pen of yours with you and use it whenever you can. I even ask sometimes "how do you like my pen? You know I made this." Word of mouth advertizing has worked best for me so far.

As far as pricing I have sold them from $25 up to about $50 depending on the wood and hardware finish. I will say that currently I have more to sell than I have sold!!

Good Luck.

Mike

 

[JRD]

I've just started selling and am getting orders here and there. All of mine have come "word of mouth". Someone buys one, shows another person, and they want one.

As for cost, I used the going prices on ebay as a guideline as well as considering the type wood the individual wanted.

Jim

 

[cskipper]

There are price guides on ebay? I've been selling them for $25 for the kits from Woodcraft. When I buy better quality of kits I will probably increase that. It also depends on the style. I haven't turned any in awhile. Guess I better get busy - been working, unsuccessfully on bowls :BangHead:

 

[jeff...]

Hello every one, for some reason or another, I'm getting numerous catalogs in the mail, if this keeps up I'll need to build a catalog case :lol:

Anyways I was looking at one last night before I went to sleep from Pennstate industries http://www.pennstateind.com/ it's all about pen making supplies. Looked to be very afordable too...

I don't make pens, so why would they send me a catalog? But I thought I would pass the information along since it seemed to be very comprehensive.

Also you might want to hook up with Clowman http://www.ncwoodworker.net/forums/member.php?u=200 He showed me some pens he made, that were as professional as professional can get. He might have a good handle on the pen / pencil market.

Thanks

 

[cskipper]

You've gotten on some mailing list - maybe at a woodworking show? I don't have one in front of me at the moment, but I think they have other stuff too. It seems like folks have said that there is a slight difference in the bearing sizes etc in their kits versus AS or Berea.

 

[Canuck]

Got one yesterday as well, Jeff. It came with an MLCS catalog included in the package. I have ordered from MLCS in the past and just assumed that was how I ended up with the PennState cat. as well. (Or perhaps it is because of all of my magazine subscriptions!:eusa_doh: ) Pretty good bedtime reading though!

I too am not a turner, but it looked like they had some pretty reasonable prices.

Wayne

 

[cskipper]

Speaking of Penn State - I just got an email with "e-mail discount codes" for orders of $50 up. If you didn't get it and want the info let me know.

 

[JRD]

Cathy,

Perhaps I worded it poorly. I used prices on ebay as a guide to myself as to what I should be charging, sort of a comparision.

Don't stop turning bowls. It will come to you.

Jim

 

[ChrisMathes]

Thanks all...for responding! I appreciate the help :eusa_danc

I'll post a picture of my turnings, soon.

Cathy, I would be interested in getting some info on that discount, if you don't mind...

Cheers!
Chris

 

[cskipper]

The link probably won't work - it's Penn States site - click on web specials





Use these coupons to save even MORE!

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/forums/
​

E-Direct specials always offer good savings on quality products. This week, we're digging a little deeper in our discount pocket by offering you Savings on Savings!
Select ANY currently available E-Direct offer from this chart - click here
We are providing special Savings on Savings coupons for you to use at checkout at our online store
Use Coupon Code "SS5" to Save $5 for purchases over $50
Use Coupon Code "SS10" to Save $10 for purchases over $100
Use Coupon Code "SS15" to Save $15 for purchases over $150
How to use the coupon codes: On the first checkout screen, under shipping charges and payment method, you will see a box that asks:
"If you are using a coupon, please place its code in this box: "
Enter your coupon code in the box to receive your discount.

Please note that these coupons are ONLY good on these active E-Direct offers.
Minimum $6.95 shipping applies to order - Continental US only.

 

[gator]

Got one yesterday as well, Jeff. It came with an MLCS catalog included in the package. I have ordered from MLCS in the past and just assumed that was how I ended up with the PennState cat. as well. (Or perhaps it is because of all of my magazine subscriptions!:eusa_doh: ) Pretty good bedtime reading though!

I too am not a turner, but it looked like they had some pretty reasonable prices.

Wayne

Penn State and MLCS have the same ownership. Their catalogs always come packaged together.

In answer to the original question, I sell mine at $35/pen, $60/pen-pencil set. This is for routine items, special woods or requests are priced per situation.


George

 

[woodguy1975]

Chris,

Pricing is determined by what the customer is willing to pay for your work. That simply means if you can convince them in the value of your work the price tag will be less important. I've sold more pens than I can remember, and have sold them for pricing from $25 to $125. It depends on the hardware makeup of the pens. My corn cobb pens are amoung my highest priced pens because of the time and difficulty.

Just do me one favor. Learn to do a good CA finish and sell nothing else. Don't compromise on quality for speed. There are a lot of finishing methods out there and some are super simple. The easier the finish is to apply the quicker it will go away. I beg my pen students to not take shortcuts with their pens and will beg anyone wanting to sell pens. Clay has done a great job learning to do a great CA. Spend the time and learn it. :icon_thum :icon_thum

The guys selling the friction polish pens give good pen makers a bad rep as far as I'm concerned. If you are selling, sell your best. If you are giving away, give away your best.

Good Luck,

John

 

[clowman]

Awww shucks.. thanks John. I have thrown away more bad CA finishes than I care to admit. CA will last a heck of a lot longer than anything else. The only time I make friction polished pen is when a customer request it. I think explain to them that that kind of pen will require regular polishing and upkeep. A plus to a friction polished pen, I really do like the wood feel of the pen. It does require maintence though, a CA pen just needs the fingerprints wiped off with the tail of your shirt to get that shine back...

 

[ChrisMathes]

Yep, so far, I've learned the friction polish method. :crybaby2:It is straight forward, fast, and easy! It looks great coming off of the lathe, but I am suprised about the short life of the gloss. It does always feel nice in your hand, though.

Clay has been an awesome resource for me and has offered much advice. I have been messing around with CA, but so far have found it good for ruining my blanks, attaching my bushings to my blanks, attaching my blue shop towel to my fingers and gluing the tip of my tounge to the back of my teeth (don't ask!)

Anyway, I appreciate your input (as always!) and will forge ahead with the CA advice. I hope you are doing well and look forward to the next woodworking class of yours I get to take!

Chris

 

[dozer]

I personally like tung oil apply a couple of coats of that and get it to as much of a gloss as you can then put a coat of friction polish over the top.

 

[clowman]

Oh.. I forgot to mention. Soak your bushings in acetone, that will help dislodge the CA from them. Careful not to let the acetone dry up all the way, or the bushings will rust. Before you start your sanding with Micromesh, take a parting tool.... and ... very... carefully.... turn as much of the ca you can off of you bushings. Right up against the end of you pen, where it meets your bushing. Then take a skew and make sure the ca is turned level with the bushing. Turning the ca from the end of your bushing will help you snap the pen from the bushing when you are finished.

I also use DNA, on a cut up TShirt, to remove sanding dust between grits of MM.

 

[jeff...]

If you are selling, sell your best. If you are giving away, give away your best.

You know I'm really starting to like this guy. Words of wisdom from woodguy1975.

You don't mind if I add this to my tagline, do you John?

Thanks...