Router Sled

[Robert166]

Okay I am ready to make one of these (router sled) and wanted to ask the ones here that have already done so. What would you do different? I know there a numerous plans out there and I have not decided on which one to model mine after. Thoughts?

 

[Oka]

Well, I made one before, it was nothing more than 2 long pieces of uni-strut attached to an oak frame. Then I built a sled that held the router to ride on that. That provided the X -Y travel. I used Beeswax to lubricate it. It was a little clunky TBH, but it worked.
As soon as I get settled, I am going to basically to the same thing, but instead I am going to use slide rods with linear pillow blocks and affix to carry the sled left/right (X). Then on the sled, probably will build it and use it like before for the top bottom (Y). My rationale is that the slide on the X travel should be easy, but, the Y travel needs more resistance friction to travel since it is carrying a operational router. Thinking that will help make it more manageable. I attached the set of slide rods for reference, when I got them they were about 50 bucks. I think I got them off Ebay, might have been Aliexpress

 

[Mike Davis]

I keep thinking I need one but haven’t spent the time and money yet.
I would like to use 50x100 mm Bosch aluminum so it won’t flex.

 

[Craig C]

This was an experiment using scrap boards to build. Worked great for flattening some boards for a project. Next one I build will have some kind of chip/dust control. Very messy, which is why I did it outside.

 

[Jeff]

Nick Offerman has an easy to build DIY sled. There are several videos about it.

 

[Warren]

I saw a kit at Lee Valley Tools that uses pipes you supply. ~$70
15K0701-router-sled-hardware-kit-d-0011.jpg

 

[chris_goris]

I have used 2 , 4x4 x 10' fir posts jointed and planed on 2 faces, sitting on sawhorses. The sled is 60" made of plywood. Worked great. level the 4x4s in all directions at whatever spacing you need. load your workpiece on and go. I will mention, the 4x4s are hard to find and not cheap, I think they were about $35 each.

 

[Robert166]

I found a product called the “Slab Jig” from Stone Coat Countertops for $410.00
Looks interesting, same premise but different approach on the router carrier.

 

[Oka]

Interesting, not sure on the price

 

[chris_goris]

I found a product called the “Slab Jig” from Stone Coat Countertops for $410.00
Looks interesting, same premise but different approach on the router carrier.

The problem with that is the wheels will run over all the shavings and the top wont be flat. Not to mention, the tabletop they claim you DONT need, you do need to make sure its level and flat.

 

[JohnnyR]

I'm pretty cheap, made this with old 3/4" ply, worked fine, need to make sure the sled is rigid enough so there's no flex. I added some more beef to the sled but don't have a picture. Learned the hard way that you have to make sure any shims under the object board stay secure. Other mistake was to overhang the L supports over the bench and they bent down. Lost a 1/2" of thickness in the process.

 

[mpeele]

I use 2 2X6 I clamp to my assembly table for rails. I screw 2 pieces of 2" X 48" aluminum angle to router base.

 

[Robert166]

After reading the replies I began to search the web and found these, 48 inched long, hmmmm that could work

Amazon.com: Happybuy 2PCS Linear Rail 0.78-47 Inch, Linear Bearings and Rails with 4PCS SBR20UU Bearing Block, Linear Motion Slide Rails for DIY CNC Routers Lathes Mills, Linear Slide Kit fit X Y Z Axis: Clothing

Amazon.com: Happybuy 2PCS Linear Rail 0.78-47 Inch, Linear Bearings and Rails with 4PCS SBR20UU Bearing Block, Linear Motion Slide Rails for DIY CNC Routers Lathes Mills, Linear Slide Kit fit X Y Z Axis: Clothing

www.amazon.com

 

[Oka]

This is what I did. I use switchable magnet bases to keep it locked

 

[Robert166]

I don’t understand switchable magnet base, please explain

 

[Oka]

This --- A magnetic base that is switchable. This prevents it from moving side to side if desired.

 

[Robert166]

So you run the router length wise, not across? Don't think it matters right?

 

[Oka]

Me? I go around the entire edge 1st, the set up to go either lengthwise or crosswise, just depends on how the wood reacts. If you go crosswise and see the wood experiencing tearout, then go lengthwise. Just depends. The advantage I have is I can set the router and lock it in to position so it does not lift and if I have the magnets locking it in a fixed position, then I can just use the steel angle and pull it through. Just easier for me.

 

[chris_goris]

Why not just clamp it down? The mag bases wont keep it from lifting

 

[Oka]

There are 2 3/4 x 3/4 square that screw down over the base that prevents it from lifting.