Question - Routing inside corners

[CrealBilly]

Routing inside corners with a round-over bit creates a radius at the corner. I have been whipping out the chisel and sand paper to make it square - is there a better way?

a picture is worth 1000 words

Thanks

 

[NCTurner]

Route your pieces first then cope it before putting it together.

 

[CrealBilly]

Route your pieces first then cope it before putting it together.

Explain please I'm not following, I'm sure it's not you - it's me

 

[NCTurner]

http://www.rd.com/how-to-cope-tight-joints/article17891.html

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WGBJttKahLE

I may be mistaken on this it might be easier to just route the roundover the cut your miter. I am assuming this if for framed doors for the gun cab??

 

[Joe Scharle]

About now, you wish you'd bought a cope & stick set!:gar-Bi

It's pretty much chip & slip at this stage:BangHead:

 

[DaveO]

Still chisel work, but easily twice as fast Corner Chisel

Dave

 

[kmcardle]

Hi Jeff. I agree in part with Gary; I would route the roundover then miter the corners. As this may be for the doors to your gun cabinet, the miters would perhaps have to be done like a hunched(sp) tennon. So you basically have one miter that would be cut shorter (stile) than the joint for you stile and rail and the other(rail) would have the rounded over edge cut off where the stile meets the rail. Don't know if you can picture what I'm saying in your head. Let me know if this is still muddy and I'll try to draw a picture or something for you. I have done a ton of joins where I routed after the joint was made though and then I did as you have be doing - pairing it out to match. Good luck.

Kevin

 

[McRabbet]

You cannot pre-cut a roundover like you have shown on straight rail and stile joints, but you can pre-cut them on any miter joint. The joint connection is across the miter and it can be done as a haunched mortise and tenon (a challenging joint to make), or a splined miter or a half-lap miter or a biscuited miter. Care must be taken that any internal connector (the spline or biscuit) is not exposed by the roundover. If you want to keep traditional rail and stile, then use a cope and stick joint with rail and stile bits that include a roundover with them.

 

[junquecol]

Jeff, from another site, I understand that Woodcraft is liquidating all of PC rail and stile bit sets. You might want to check their web / store and see if they have a round over set. I think I do, but twisted my ankle today, so can't go to the shop to check. If I have that profile, you are welcome to use it. You can do straight routes, and remove area in the joint. This is how it's been done for years. Also, MLCS sells set reasonably.

 

[CrealBilly]

I took the chisels to the corners, that and a little bit of sanding and all came out fine I'm going to need to get me one of those corner chisels that dave linked to, that sure would save some time (thanks Dave). Rob was right about the depth of the mortise in relationship to the round over. I made some wide tendons and there was only about 1/16 of an inch clearance after I used the 1/2" round over, I'm glad I didn't go any deeper with the round over bit. One slip of the chisel and I would have had to make a new side.

Thanks everyone for all the replies :thumbs_up

 

[CrealBilly]

Sorry I have one more question, it's ok to glue this frame together or do I need to pin it with no glue?

 

[Joe Scharle]

Sorry I have one more question, it's ok to glue this frame together or do I need to pin it with no glue?

I had assumed the frame was already glued up. One of the problems with working on frame corners while still 'loose', is re-registration during glue up/clamping. You may find that your recently squared up corners will not align the same as they did before. And speaking of squaring rounded corners left by a router bit, I find that using the widest chisel I have helps keep my squaring cuts straight by keeping about 90% of the chisel back flush against the shoulder left by the router bit.

That brings up the beauty of cope & stick bit sets. The rails slide right into the stiles and give the appearance of perfectly squared corners, and provides a gluing surface at the rail ends.

 

[Kicbak]

I originally used a simple tongue and groove set when I was making doors. I found I was making plywood doors so often for cabinets and stuff around the house I added a rail and stile set which I really like using. Making a set of doors with just a 1/4" plywood panel is really easy and fast. Raised panels take a little longer since you have to make a panel.

When using the bits I make the stiles (ie sides) longer (3/8" or 1/2") then I need for the actual door so when I glue up I don't need to make sure the rail outside edges match the exact top of the stiles. Which when gluing up is a pain in the ***. Now its easier to just make them square and trim the door to size after its done.

Wes

 

[CrealBilly]

I see by this thread that many would like for me to move upto a rail and stile set. I had a good one but let my friend borrow it, he hit a nail in some old pine and replaced it with a harbor freight set. :tinysmile_cry_t:

Tool Loaning 101 - you break you fix it - or replace it with the "same" or "better" model.

 

[Gofor]

Jeff, to answer your question: If you are careful with the glue up to get your roundover ends to align, there is no need to pin it. Strength-wise it should be fine. (I do the router/chisel operation after glue up unless I do the elongated tenon. Without a rail-stile set, its a 2 step operation, but can still be done fairly easily.)

Go

 

[CrealBilly]

Jeff, to answer your question: If you are careful with the glue up to get your roundover ends to align, there is no need to pin it. Strength-wise it should be fine. (I do the router/chisel operation after glue up unless I do the elongated tenon. Without a rail-stile set, its a 2 step operation, but can still be done fairly easily.)

Go

Mr Go, this was going too be a long winded response, but I decided to spare you the agony...

Personally (my view only mind you) I think taking a chisel to a piece of wood gives it character and makes it unique. Kinda like listening to early recordings, you hear mistakes, but it's the mistakes that contribute to it's uniqueness. Unlike today's recordings, where they use computers and try to make every note perfect.

Little do people understand there is no such thing as perfect. Perfection is in the eye of the beholder and when you think your perfect, watch out because there is a long hard fall just around the corner. If I strived for perfection, I would never get anything done. Simply because whatever I did would never be good enough.

Again I appreciate everyone's replies and especially yours Mr. Go, you answered my question and created some thought, for that I am very well pleased.

Here's the less than perfect results. Can it be done? Yes it can, just remember, go easy because there is a mortise not more than 1/16 of a inch below. Time to whip out the glue bottle and clamps.

 

[McRabbet]

That's every bit as perfect as it needs to be -- well done, Jeff!

 

[cpowell]

Mr Go, this was going too be a long winded response, but I decided to spare you the agony...

Personally (my view only mind you) I think taking a chisel to a piece of wood gives it character and makes it unique. Kinda like listening to early recordings, you hear mistakes, but it's the mistakes that contribute to it's uniqueness. Unlike today's recordings, where they use computers and try to make every note perfect.

Little do people understand there is no such thing as perfect. Perfection is in the eye of the beholder and when you think your perfect, watch out because there is a long hard fall just around the corner. If I strived for perfection, I would never get anything done. Simply because whatever I did would never be good enough.

Again I appreciate everyone's replies and especially yours Mr. Go, you answered my question and created some thought, for that I am very well pleased.

Here's the less than perfect results. Can it be done? Yes it can, just remember, go easy because there is a mortise not more than 1/16 of a inch below. Time to whip out the glue bottle and clamps.

Good words there, Jeff. Nice lines (in the wood) too.

I love hand tools. They help me slow down and enjoy the trip through the project.


Chuck

 

[Travis Porter]

I thought his name was Mark????:eusa_thin

Hey GOFOR!!!! Where you been???? What you built lately????

 

[Gofor]

I thought his name was Mark????:eusa_thin

Hey GOFOR!!!! Where you been???? What you built lately????

Currently finishing up a small (9 1/2" wide) kitchen floor cabinet for my BIL's widow. She got a smaller stove, so I am trying to match the existing cabinets, which goes against my grain due to "unique" construction (ex: Birch ply doors with no edge treatment, pine facing with the rails running full width and the stiles pieced in, etc). Try to get pics tomorrow.

Other than that I re-shingled my MIL's roof (managed to get the shingles from Habitat, so had to move 70 packs from job site to home to MILs to roof, and also had to rebuild the soffett as it was rotted)), helped neighbors dropping pine trees and cleaning up the aftermath, making dog doors for nephew's boxer kennels, and relocating wiring, making speaker shelves, etc to augment relocating the TV/entertainment center in our living room (which also will entail repainting most the walls now that SWMBO has finally selected a color).

When not doing that I have been just taking care of the daily stuff and drinking a few beers on my deck!

So: answer is "Not much", at least nothing worth pics.:wsmile::wsmile:

Go