My ShopBot project

Status
Not open for further replies.

sushinutnc

New User
Mike
OK... it's not rocket science here, but if you get even the tiniest of thrills watching computer-controlled power tools, then you may be interested in this. :icon_scra

This is a video I made of me using a ShopBot CNC router on particleboard:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qti1xM3Jv6k

This is the final product:

mold.jpg


Here's a basic explanation of how I got there:

I am reconstructing the molds I use to build the drums I make (celtic drum known as a bodhran...see my gallery).

My original mold is identical, but made from MDF. I used a homemade circle-cutting router jig and a table saw (ShopSmith). It works ok, but gets a bit beat up after each use. In particular, the MDF splits occasionally after all the clamping and epoxying. I decided to redo the mold out of particleboard. By using the ShopBot, I'm also able to make precision inserts for smaller diameter drums.

The first step is drawing the parts. This is a 2D project (only worried about cutting through the wood, rather than dimensionally carving the wood), so a standard vector drawing program works fine. I use Microsoft Visio for most of my woodworking projects. This is an example of one of a drawing used for one of the parts in the video:

example_2D_drawing.jpg


Then I export as a .dxf file and import that into the ShopBot PartWorks software (rebranded software from Vectric). In PartWorks you have to define all the 3D aspects of the work, such as the thickness of the wood and the maximum depth of each cut (from which it then automatically calculates how many passes through the material will be needed). Here's an example of a rendered drawing it makes, so you can check it before milling:

toolpath_render2.jpg


By FAR the trickiest part is assigning the speed of the spindle and feed rate. These are based on the type of material and the number of flutes on the mill (bit) you use. Info is available on the web, and there are several ways to adjust through trial-and-error... watching and listening to it as it cuts. Technically, you are attempting to optimize for the correct "chip load". In practice, you are basically trying to make sure the tool gives off tiny chips rather than dust. In my video, I used 12,000 RPM, 4 in/sec feed rate, and a standard 1/4" 2-flute carbide router bit with .26" max pass depth.
 

ehpoole

Administrator
Ethan
Thanks for the post, I love CNC machines. One of these years I will finally get around to designing and building my own smaller CNC machine. For someone with fairly hardcore hobbies in computers, electronics (if I had to guess, I probably have an inventory of a couple million electronic parts :eusa_doh:) and robotics I can't think of a more fun project, though lately woodworking has been monopolizing all my time.

Enjoy your ShopBot!
 

sushinutnc

New User
Mike
CNC routers are great :). Do you ever do contract work?
Thanks!
Salem
The ShopBot is actually at TechShop RDU. This is my first project, so I would be REALLY hesitant about working on anyone else's projects until I know the ins and outs of it.

There are several people who use it for their own commercial endeavors, including the guy who taught me how to use it. I'm pretty sure he'd be interested in contract work... probably would depend on the specific job. If you IM me with an email address, I'll put the two of you in touch. He's a great person to work with and makes a lot of commercial work on the ShopBot.

ALSO-- since you're in the area.... you can learn how to use it yourself for a minimum of $60 (that's for a basic safety class and no additional training on CAD or CAM... but they offer those classes too). You don't have to be a member to take ANY class. Then for an additional $30/day or $99/month you have access to reserve and use the ShopBot. There are several people more than willing to help you through your first project, too.

Here's info on classes: TSRDU ShopBot Training
 

eyekode

New User
Salem
Wow, that is a pretty good deal! I don't need any work right now but if/when I do I will keep this in mind.
Thanks!
Salem
 

zapdafish

Steve
Corporate Member
thats pretty cool, do you do laminate bending? or steam bending or something else altogether to get the shape? Kinda curious too on how you join the two ends to complete the circle
 

sushinutnc

New User
Mike
thats pretty cool, do you do laminate bending? or steam bending or something else altogether to get the shape? Kinda curious too on how you join the two ends to complete the circle
The drums are made of 3 sheets of approx. 1/8"-thick ash (going to experiment with sassafras and mulberry that I got from steviegwood). I steam bend them into the mold and let them cool, THEN cut each to length for butt joints (yes, while bent). Some prefer lap joints. From a strength perspective, it really doesn't matter... the sheets are all laminated together with epoxy. I use a lap joint for strength on an inside ring that's used for tuning.

If that's not very clear, there's much more info on my (still incomplete) blog... lots of photos and drawings.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Status
Not open for further replies.

Premier Sponsor

Our Sponsors

Top