Material for exterior sign

[jerrye]

I have been commissioned to design and build a new two-sided exterior sign for my church. I have a design but now need advice as to the materials to use for durability and longevity, as well as techniques for construction. Right now I'm thinking that the lettering will be routed out of the substrate, because routed lettering does not shadow when lit as raised lettering does. Any advice and help is much appreciated. TIA!

 

[chris99z71]

I've heard much talk about MDO for outdoor signage. I've never worked with the stuff (or even handled it), but it's supposed to be the cat's meow. From what I understand, it's kinda/sorta an outdoor grade MDF. I think that DaveO has worked with it before.

 

[chris99z71]

Scratch that. After doing a little research, MDO is plywood with an exterior grade coating. Routing letters in it would surely be bad.

What about some Ipe? That stuff will last forever.

 

[NCPete]

yeah, chris, MDO was my first thought.... but routing into the material seemed like it would cause some durability issues. Norm has used it several times, but never in a situation where the surface is broken, and the edges aren't protected.

 

[SSuther]

You might find some usefull info at this site: SignCraft Magazine

 

[DaveO]

I would consider Cypress, or KDAT treated pine. MDO is great for painted signs, but as stated above routing into it defeats it's weather resisance.
Dave

 

[woodworker2000]

I know you are looking for suggestions for a sign you can build but if you decide to change your focus, I remember we (the HOA) ordered a sign for the front of our neighborhood from a company online and were very pleased with the result and the price. I handled it for the HOA and found the company easy to deal with and the distance did not create a challenge for us. I don't remember the name of the company but (if I remember correctly), the sign was made of high-density polystyrene and was painted to our specifications. I would think it will last longer than anything that could be made out of wood. If you do decide to go this route and want the name of the company, let me know and I will see if I can find it.

 

[jerrye]

Thanks for all of the suggestions. Budget is tight so the PT sounds best. Mike, if the material I get is still somewhat wet, as PT often is, how long should I let it dry before jointing/gluing?

 

[DaveO]

Jerry, spend a little extra $ and get KDAT (kiln dried after treatment) then you don't have to wait a long time for the non-dried PT lumber to get dry enough to work properly. There is a place off of Atlantic Ave and Highwoods that carries a wide selection of it -
Brooks Building Products | Treated Wood-Windows-Doors-Heavy Timber-Wholesale Lumber

Dave

 

[jeff...]

Plastic

 

[jeff...]

If you want to get fancy and have something for the long haul, then heart wood eastern red cedar or Black Locust

 

[jerrye]

Dave, thanks for the link & lead on Brooks. I'll stop in to see them in the next day or so as they are just 5-6 miles from me. Think I know where they are, if they're close to the Food Bank.

Jeff, I'd love to look at cedar or cypress if I had a way of planing rough stock. Would have to look closely at cost because it'd have to be kiln dried as I'm kinda up against the clock. Have to have sign completed and up before June.

Thanks all. I knew I'd find the best help here!:-D :eusa_clap